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No water entering machine
IT COULD BE THE FLOAT SWITCH ASSEMBLY>
PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING VERY CAREFULLY AS WATER AND POWER DONT MIX WELL
Before testing the float switch, unplug the dishwasher or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When the water in the tub lifts the float to a set point, the float switch is triggered and it shuts off the water inlet valve, stopping the flow of water. If the float switch is defective, the tub may overfill.If the float switch is obstructed or corroded it can prevent the tub from filling by holding the fill valve off !!so locate, check and clean.
To access the float switch remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.
Note the location of the float in the dishwasher's tub and you will find the float switch beneath it in the access area. The switch has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multitester to test for continuity. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. With the probes still in place, depress the button or lever on the switch and the reading should change to the opposite extreme
If there's no water entering your dishwasher, check these:
The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely
replace it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left or right side. It's the device
with the main water line (usually copper) from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two
wires attached to it.
The float switch is a small electrical switch that's located right below the dishwasher "floor."
Above the switch, on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats up as water fills
the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised
position, the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective, you need to replace it.
My dish washer is not washing the dishes on the
have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife also complained
about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried in vain
to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed
them in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also
found that if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess
things up bad... So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out
the heating element to make sure it is working... Here is a tip that
will help you with the online buying...
Arms not Spinning
to Buy Appliance
bad heating element causes many problems in
Dishwasher Problems The Heating
Element not Working
Residue and Film on Dishes
Asker's Testimonial "explanation very clear. will give
it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " -
ITS NOT REALLY CLEANING
I cannot tell you why your tablet doesn't clean well not knowing your machine, but having tried several types and brands (liquid, tablet, powder) I have found that the powder cleans best in my machine. Maybe it is something to do with dissolving or your water is not hot enough --possibly tablets work best in certain machines and not others. I don't have any interests behind my advice, but Cascade Complete was the one recommended to me and has become what I use exclusively. But I am willing to try others as technology develops.
M/c not filling with water
It may be that it is airlocked the one way to check this is to take water pipe off valve remove 2 screws in valve then about 4 screws in the plastic panel by valve and prise out from body.just beside the valve is a small pink pipe with a bung in it remove this and you should see water, let it out onto a towel only a small amount normally.then put back as you found it and panel etc.Try again and see if water comes into unit.If not then you need to remove the front plastic base under door 2 screws with door down.Then a steel plate behind that remove 2screws.shine a torch and locate the pressure switch on L.H.S. make sure power off now remove small plastic pipe from switch then put back on then try again.If no joy then the pressure switch is at fault.
is your waste pipe at less well up your wall so the pump can
Machine does not fill with water
I had a Zanussi d/w up until about 5 years ago and there were two perennial problems that required attention. First of all, there was a double solenoid inlet valve for the water supply at the back, one part was the main fill, the other was a supply to the water softener - big plastic lump in the bottom under the salt filler. The main fill solenoid would fail about every 2 years and I would buy a replacement directly from Zanussi for about £10. I believe the failure may have been due to the fact that the machine was filled from the hot supply. This was allowed in the specification but the higher temperature may have led to failure. (Side note) In any case, it is better to fill dishwashers with cold water anyway because during the initial part of the wash cycle proteins are rinsed off rather than being stuck on the items, and secondly, heating from cold increases the contact time of the wash detergent solution and also improves
results. If the solenoid controlling the supply to the water softener has failed, it may well lead to the phenomenon you are seeing because the regeneration cycle happens after the wash in most machines.
If you feel comfortable about using a mains tester(a neon screwdriver one would do) and can *safely* reach the solenoid with power on and the machine the right way up, then you could see
whether power is reaching the regeneration side of the valve or not. If it is, and water is not entering then you have the culprit.
Another area that affects filling is the level switch. Generally these are pneumatically operated device looking like a flat drum, about 8cm across and 1cm or so thick. They are generally mounted up high in the machine or door and have two or three wires
on terminals and a small flexible plastic tube leading somewhere into the wet area of the machine. As the water level rises, water goes part way up the tube and air above it operates the switch to turn off the water.
Sometimes there are two levels used and hence two switches inside this assembly working at different pressures. One could have gone. Another problem is that gunk can get in the lower part of the tube and reduce or block it from detecting. and generally this results in no filling at all.
Hope this helps!
There is smelly water left in the Salt container.
I was very disappointed to find out that you did not actually offer me a solution to this (surely very simple) problem. For this reason I certainly would not take out a plan with a company like yours. You have offered me no advice whatsoever although you promised assistance.
You are obviously a company that cannot be relied on.
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