20 Most Recent Zanussi TC7114W Electric Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!! WHICH IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE What to Test When Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer Won Start or Run

thermostat fail over temperature fail element fail if gas type could be igniter module fail check the above items first.

Return it back to the place of purchase and buy a different brand of dryer. Try Whirlpool or Sears Kenmore. You should have much better luck with these name brands.

It can be mechanical or electrical malfunction. I would check tank microswitch, float and lever. Below is explained how the condensate drainage system works and that will facilitate fault detection. The warm and cold air circuits cross inside the heat exchanger, which results in a thermal exchange which condenses the humidity contained in the warm air. The condensation which forms in the heat exchanger is collected in a sump, from which it falls by gravity into a tank. When the water in the tank reaches the max. level, the level of the water in the sump increases, which causes the float to move upwards, thus actioning a microswitch; The microswitch for dryers with electronic board sends a signal to the electronic circuit when the tank has been filled, switches off the appliance and lights a pilot lamp which indicates to the user that the tank is full. The microswitch with electromechanical control switches off the dryer (the timer motor is powered and ends its cycle) and lights a pilot lamp which indicates to the user that the tank is full. Dado

The warm and cold air circuits cross inside the heat exchanger, which results in a thermal exchange which condenses the humidity contained in the warm air. The condensation which forms in the heat exchanger is collected in a sump, from which it falls by gravity into a tank. When the water in the tank reaches the max. level, the level of the water in the sump increases, which causes the float to move upwards, thus actioning a microswitch; The microswitch for dryers with electronic board sends a signal to the electronic circuit when the tank has been filled, switches off the appliance and lights a pilot lamp which indicates to the user that the tank is full. The microswitch with electromechanical control switches off the dryer (the timer motor is powered and ends its cycle) and lights a pilot lamp which indicates to the user that the tank is full. The tank capacity is about 3.5 lt., enough for a drying cycle. - Remove the screw (1) which secures the support micro and use a screwdriver for the two hooks which secure it to the sump. - Lift them simultaneously and unthread the micro support towards outside Putting upside down the support you can access the floating microswitch. Inside the sump there is the float. To extract it rotate the float 90° clockwise as shown. Lift it up, rotate it towards outside and extract it. While reassembling the pump, the float and the tank microswitch, repeat the same operations backwards, paying attention that when the micro support is remounted it is necessary to use a screwdriver in the fissure (indicated by the arrow), to lift the micro lever and lean it over the float (if this operation is not carried out the lever of the micro comes up alongside the float (it deforms) and the two components do not function anymore. Dado

Front brush

• Remove the worktop.
• Disconnect the wires.
• With the aid of a screwdriver, press on the locking clip and at the same time remove the entire brush unit.

Rear brush

• Unfasten the screw fixing the drum pin guard.
• Turn the guard anticlockwise until the lower fixing clip is free.
• The brush is housed inside the drum pin guard.

Dado

Unfortunately, nowhere in the user manual does not described how the connecting hose to drain water into the siphon. Dado

REVERSIBILITY OF THE DOOR Proceed as follows:

1.Remove the screws which secure the hinges to the cabinet (fig.A.1). Remove the door. 2.Remove the screws which secure the hinge hole masking plates (fig.A-2) and fit the plates to the holes to which the hinges were previously fitted (fig.A-1). 3.Remove the canister. 4.Remove the work top. 5.Remove the left- and right-hand panels. 6.Remove the front panel hole cap (fig.A-4). To do so, squeeze together the anchor tabs which secure it to the cabinet. 7.Remove the screws which secure the door interlock (fig.A-3) to the cabinet and remove the lock. 8.Detach the connector from the door lock. 9.Remove the tapes from the wiring (fig. B) and separate the wires for the door lock from the remaining wires. 10.Re-tape the remaining wiring. 11.Insert the general wiring harness into the support(s) positioned on the duct (fig. C) and position them parallel to the front panel so that they cannot come into contact with the drum. Attach to the anchor using a wire tie. 12.Insert the door lock connector between the drum and the canister container, then remove it from the position shown by the arrow (fig.D-1). 13.Insert it beneath the front brush cover (fig.D-2), secure to the anchors on the duct (fig.D-3), and remove the wiring from the other side of the cabinet. 14.Insert the door lock connector and secure with screws to the front panel (fig.E-5). Ensure that the wiring is not trapped between the door lock and the front panel. 15.Check that the wiring is routed through all the anchors released when removing the door lock wiring. 16.The excess section of the door lock wiring should be secured using a wire tie to the wiring cover (fig.D-6). Fit the masking cap into the hole from which the door lock was removed (fig.E-4). Dado

DRYER SMELLS LIKE BURNING: Answer:First, Stop using your dryer until this problem is resolved. This is a fire hazard and could cause a fire. Your issue is more than likely alint build up problem. The lint that comes off of your clothes as you dry them becomes trapped in the dryer itself and in the venting duct that connects from the back of the dryer to the wall. The first thing to do is todisconnect powerby unplugging the dryer cord from the wall. Slide the dryer away from the wall slowly.Remove the hose ductthat attaches to the back of the dryer. Look inside the hose duct and if you see heavy lint build up, that is most likely your problem. If you have a shop vac vacuum or similar, use the long wand attachment tovacuum out the lintthat is in the duct. The best way to do this is to completely remove the vent duct from the wall and dryer.Vacuum the inside of the ductto clean it out. Alsovacuum in the vent hole in the wallwhere the duct attaches to the wall and remove any lint that may be blocking air flow. Put everything back together and test your dryer to see if the burning smell has been resolved. NOTE: There may be heavy build up of lint deep in the wall. You can purchase aDryer Vent Cleaning Kitthat may make your job of cleaning the vent much easier. However, it may be best to call a Dryer Vent Cleaning Company as they have the equipment that is needed to remove all lint in the wall that could cause a fire. We know everyone wants to save money and "do it yourself" but when it comes to safety, money should not be an issue. If the burning smell is still present, you cantake the dryer apartandtry vacuuming out any lintthat may be built up on the inside of the dryer. Do a search for your dryer model name and number onGoogleto see how your particular dryer model is disassembled. If you are not comfortable taking your dryer apart then it is advised to call an appliance repair company as your issue can cause a fire. There are other reasons for your dryer to have a burning smell. There could be an electrical issue inside your dryer. This may mean that a certain part or electrical board is going bad or is bad. Another common reason for this issue is something is near the heating element inside the dryer and causing the burning smell. If you have an older clothes dryer, it may be possible that the components are past its life span and it is time to purchase a new dryer. If you want your dryer to be looked at by a professional, it may be time to call an appliance repair company to come out and check your dryer. There are plenty of videos that can help you to determine what may be wrong with your dryer. There are a few videos below that may assist you with troubleshooting and disassembling your dryer.

Go to the self help section of repairclinic.com Enter you model number for specific trouble shooting advice on your appliance.

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!!

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

Download from here: http://www.manualowl.com/p/Zanussi/ZDEB47209W/Manual/237381

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

plugged vents

ENSURE THAT THE MOTOR IS WELL TIGHTEN TO ITS NORMAL OPERATING POSITION.

Most likely a door switch