Top 20 Zanussi ZBF360X Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

The reason for my free advice is GOD is good! Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little: If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem. Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake? When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings. Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard. When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps. First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring. Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element. Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be. To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

it sounds like a temp sensor, or thermostat...both are easy to change.

more info please, is it your grill of fan oven etc ?

Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Hello Ivor,

I assume you're referring to the small neon mains indicator on the fascia panel rather than the internal light in the oven. To replace this, you have to pull the oven forward to gain access to the rear of the control panel from above.

The wiring at the rear of the control panel is live even when the oven is switched off. Please switch off the oven at the wall and/or the 30amp fuse in your consumer unit before attempting any service or repair on your oven.

1. Remove the four retaining screws ringed in red in the diagram below. These are only visible with the door open. Pull the oven forward about 8-10 inches. The oven is front-heavy due to the weight of the glass door and has a tendency to topple forwards, so either remove the door (lock the hinges and lift it out) or place something under the front of the oven to support it.


2. Unscrew the coloured lens for the mains indicator light on the fascia panel. This is difficult to grip and a bit tricky to remove, but unscrews anti-clockwise. You can now pull the main body of the indicator light through to the rear. You may need to wiggle it around a little to get it through the hole in the oven panel.

3. Disconnect the 2 wires from the terminals on the indicator light. Attach the wires to the new light, feed it back through the hole and hold it steady at the back while you screw the lens on at the front.

4. Push the oven back in, insert the four retaining screws and tighten them fully.

If you can't see the switches and wiring immediately when pulling the oven forward, there will be a removable access panel covering the front portion of the top of the oven. This either unclips or has a couple of retaining screws - I can't remember which on this model, but it will be obvious once you pull the oven forward.

Hope this helps. If you get stuck or need further assistance, please let me know by clicking on "Add a Comment" below your question.

Regards,
BElectric

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about the oven door glass replacement...
It is not that hard...

Range/Stove/ Oven Door Glass Replacement
heatman101

melting of elements does not really afect thermostart but check wires connecting the elements they too could be burnt

put back in clean then cancle

Hello,
Is the model number correct. ZBF360X.
Anyway the error code fo8 normally relates to a faulty Tangential Fan.(Cooling Fan),which can be found on teh top of the cooker behind the control panel and it is there to cool said panel.

Hope this helps.

Hello,

if it trips as soon as you turn on a certain function that may point you in the right direction.If it trips when you just turn on at mains with no funtions set then it would be advisable to get the zanussi man out most leckys will find fault but tell you to get service man to sort it.
Hope I was helpful.

Good Luck.

Hello,
If you mean the fan element then take all the racks out of oven and at the back is a panel with 4 screws remove may need a tap with hammer and screwdriver to shock rust etc. then undo screws on element maybe 3 screws pull gently forward(electric off).Try to pull the spade connectors off without losing them into back of oven if you lose them then you will have to take out oven and remove back plate. refit new element.If it was the grill element just follow above and find behind back plate.Hope I helped.

Hello,

If the main oven fan is working but no heat it is most probably the ring element which is around the fan blade inside the oven.Check it is the element before you go and replace because there could also be an issue with the thermostat.Hope this helps.

Good Luck,

I have exactly the same problem, oven is heating to max every time, I have just replaced the thermo stat and temperature regulator to no effect.. running out of options an dmoney now!! Anbody able to assist with some knowledge??

This tutorial will show you how to check your Zanussi element and how to replace your Zanussi cooker element. Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating

1. Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Zanussi manual.
2. If you're Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
3. When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

If this helped like us on facebook please How to Video Tutorials on Domestic Appliances

You should be able to repair your existing door. Have a look around the perimeter of the door to see if there are any screws, particularly near the handle. You are looking to take the front fascia off the door, so that you can access the inside. Most doors have the front fascia held on by small brackets glued to the back of the glass that clip on to a fixing on the internal door. The top of the fascia is normally held in place by the handle. Once you have the front of the door off you can retrieve the piece of glass that has fallen out. You will almost certainly find that the glass has come away from the adhesive that was used to hold it in place. You will need to clean up the glass and the metal door and re-stick the glass using a high temperature oven door glue

Everflex may work, however this is a glue specifically intended for oven door glass and rubber seals that may be more appropriate for you. There are lots of reviews on the site where people have used it for that purpose. They provide a complete kit with everything you will need to do the job.

i had the same problem but only once it had got up to temprature, after 10 mins or so, this was the thermostat, but never happened as soon as i turned it on, which does point to a short or faulty componant in this case.,

From the description you have given it would seem as if the element is'gone' i.e broken.

You will need to have it replaced before it does any more damage to the oven roof.

whirlpool oven doesn"t heat after self cleaning.

It sounds like the isolation switch is faulty, which can happen, or it it could be connected incorrectly.
I would advise having the switch checked.