Yamaha Ef600 Generator/inverter Repair/service Manual - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

This is official site: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/products/modeloverview/cat/2007/55/model_overview.aspx

Now if the genset stabilises with a load but keeps shunting when there is no load it is possible that you need to do a service check or overhaul of the engine.
1. Make sure that the oil is clean , if low or clogged replace the oil.
2. Check the fuel line and the fuel/air settings . If the engine is HUNTING then there is a setting fault of the mixture or there is dirt in the carburator ports that does not allow the fuel to be flowing with the right pressure . It is best to remove and clean the system.
3. The Spark plug is another reason, if the plug gaps are low, if the spark plugs are bad, insulation is faulty the power will be reduced as it will hunt.
4. The genset RPM is monitored by a governor which allows a slight throttle adjustment when the load increases. So make sure that the linkages to the throttle vavle is free and moving.
5. the choke must be kept closed, check the spark plug to have an idea of the firing.Finally check the fuel, check for impurities in the tank.
I am sure one of the above tip must solve the issue.
Thank you for using FIxya.

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ?

My answer:

Hello Bill:

Here are the site links you'll need to check and/or get info, or buy your adapter kit for your Yami YG4600D Genset conversion kit.

Most likely it's running an 8 or 10HP engine on it now? In any case it's most likely less then 12HP. Not sure what size engine you have, as you didn't say only for the model #? On older Gensets it's harder to track down the HP rated engine is all.

For your Yami YG4600D Genset there you most likely will have your choice of at least 4 adapter kits depending on if you are going to keep gasoline as an option. If you're definitely NOT going to be ever running gasoline again then there are 1 or 2 adapter kits to choose from.

Use the site links below, and then browse whichever area you want as there are many options there. The last link listed takes you through all the different engines by make & model #'s.

I would also shop around locally where you are in LA, as you might be able to get that adapter kit for a lot less then the $227 to $267 they are asking for there at that site.

If you don't see your exact model # (or kit) there call them on their 800 toll free # listed at their site.

Also - if this site doesn't meet your expectations customer service wise at least you will have a starting off point with the wealth of information supplied there!

http://www.propane-generators.com/what_kit_do_i_need.htm

"What Kit Do I Need?"

http://www.propane-generators.com/simple_explanation.htm

"Simple Explanation"

http://www.propane-generators.com/a-c_kit_list.htm

A and C Kit List
Please post me a reply as to this info helping you solve your adapter kit problem there by following my posting recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

Best regards,

Frank

You can safely use any ul approved device using 120v 50 ~ 60 hz if you stay within the limits of it's potential (in your case 2000 watt). You will probably have a loss of efficiency using a step up transformer and will be very limited on the wattage available at the 220v. Most converters are not designed for continuous use and recommend that you buy a converter with at least 25 % more capacity than you will use. Also to get longer life out of your generator, you should use only 75 percent of its capacity for continuous use. A 2000 watt converter will work fine for loads of about 1500 watts or less.

you have a weak rectifier if it will not produce the needed voltage. Rectifiers are checked with an ohm meter

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
First off I am just trying to help you and not participating on the FixYa site for the money. I have been working on small engines and generators since the late 1960's.

This is usually caused by the speed limiter assy. (Not a cheap part)
SPEED LIMITER ASSY 7WL-85680-02-00
Item 22 this link:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Power%20Equipment/0/EF30ISEBH/CONTROL%20BOX/parts.html
The feedback wiper in the speed limiter is either dirty or worn. When you re-position the throttle arm the feedback wiper is making good contact again so it works normally. It appears that the feedback wiper in the speed control is not making good contact at full RPM so it does not drive the throttle linkage to idle.
If your careful dependng on the design of your speed control you just might be able to take the cover off and clean it up so the wiper makes contact. Wht ever you do DO NOT lift the wiper arm up. You will bend it and never be able to get it to function again. Just clean it. You can use sand paper but... be real careful.
If your speed control is 100 % electronic with only a small DC motor actuator you may have to see if you can clean the brushes and armature slip rings of the internal DC motor.
I have brought several speed controls back to life but it really is a major game of chance anytime you open one up. Just know that your stuck with a very expensive replacement cost for a speed control unit if you screw it up. ----
----It is not a bad thing to keep using your generator with a defective / improperly functioning speed control. As you know is just will not throttle down.
The part number listed above is for the original part number and has been superceded by another part number:
The ($60.00) service manual for this generator is available from Yamaha by PN: LIT-19616-CM-20
Anywhere else the manual is $80.00!

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Check that the vent hole in the cap isn't obstructed.

--W/D--

Tip it over sideways - no drain hole exists, just the inlet.

Usually if a generator sits for awhile, it will lose its polarity. A quick check for this is to plug in a drill, start the generator and turn the the voltage on has if to use it, then turn the drill chuck has quickly has possible. This action re-polarizes the generator unit. I would also make sure the circuit breakers are seated down.

What have you tried so far? An engine needs fuel, air and spark to work properly.
Fuel - Has the generator been sitting for more than a couple of months? There could be bad gas in it, and/or varnish built up inside somewhere in the fuel tank/lines. The carburetor could be plugged somewhere blocking proper fuel delivery.
Air - The choke may not be working/applied properly, or the air filter clogged.
Spark - The spark plug could be fouled, have you tried seeing if there is spark or not? Is the spark plug wire on tight, is it the correct one, is it clean and gapped properly, etc?

What model is it??

flooded cab to much gas

Hi.
Usually when that happens it is because the diode(s) has gone out...

heatman101

It is likely not a winding short but more likely in wiring or components in the inverter. Remove output connections and with simple loads like light bulbs check the conditions of the genset itself.

Note: Small digital voltmeters will respond to the tiny currents caused by the capacitance of wiring and windings giving false readings. Use know loads like light bulbs to draw current during test.

Use a standard battery charger set to a low setting like two amps for a few hours.

You can disconnect the fuel line from the carb and drain the gas. It would be even better to then remove the fuel tank. If this is the generator with the large plastic tank, quite often the rubber gromet in the bottom of the tank with shout off vavle in it will deteriorate into a black gooey mess, and leak. If so that will have to be replaced. Clean inside of tank with fresh gasoline. Remove bowl from carburator and clean throughly. If you know how to work on engines, remove the carburator and clean throughly, notice how all springs and linkage were connected before removeal. Be sure all passage ways in carb are clean. Always use sta-bill in your gas.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/0/LIT-19626-01-15_1425.pdf

Fuel Starvation - Float Bowl Carburetor
1) remove air filter assembly
*be cautious of tearing the mounting gasket. If it does tear, you HAVE to replace it. It is part of the priming system
2) remove the float bowl fastener. This is the main jet
3) carefully remove the float bowl, the rubber o-ring/gasket will not be able to be used if it is removed, you WILL have to replace it
4) using a spray 'carb cleaner'
spray up thru the center of the carburetor
spray and clean the main jet with cleaner and 'tag' wire
(tag wire is very thin, and can be used to clean the hole in the center of the main jet)
5) clean any debris from inside the bowl or carb body
6) re-install bowl and center bolt, air filter assembly

*if you need gaskets, your local lawn & garden dealer can supply. The kit is cheaper than individual gaskets, and all the parts needed to finish the above repair are in the kit. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Surging is not uncommon till warm and stable,

No power? Read this site:

http://www.endtimesreport.com/dead_gen.html