Top 20 Carrier Weathermaker 8000 Gas Furnace 125k Btu Questions & Answers

Could well be the inducer motor Google carrier 31fault code there are 3 video's on this on u tube

Here is a link that might help. Even if it glows, it could still be bad, but it needs to prove air flow as well. Carrier Weathermaker 8000 Ignition Problem DoItYourself com Community...

These gas furnaces are very simple with few moving parts. Manufacturers added another moving part, and another way for unit to fail, by adding an electrical safety switch, which interrupts electrical command to unit to operate if the switch is in the open position such as when the lower panel is removed. But sometimes the lower panel, even when in place, may not depress switch enough to keep it closed. To see if an open switch is your issue, first verify that key unit components are working -- themostat works properly, gas supply to unit, electricity to unit, gas valve opens, flame ignitor comes on, fan comes on. If yes to all, check to see if the lower panel electrical safety switch works, and is positioned correctly. If the switch, or panel, is out of place or removed, the switch should remain in open position, and the unit will not run. If panel is not pressing against switch sufficiently, switch may not close when panel is in place. Given the coefficient of expansion of the steel plate the panel is made of, the panel may cool and contract enough to hold the switch closed when the unit first turns on. As the inside of the furnace heats up, the panel and frame of the unit expand as the metal parts heat up, and as the panel moves away from the switch due to expansion, the switch opens and the unit cuts off even though the lower panel is in place. This may take several minutes, or longer. If the panel remains far enough away from the switch after the switch opens and unit stops operating, the switch could remain open and prevent power flow/themostat signal prompts from activating the unit even when the unit frame and panels cool and contract. To check to see if an open switch may be your problem, turn off power to unit, remove top panel, remove bottom panel, check switch to see that it physically opens and closes, replace lower panel, replace top panel, turn power back on. Do this repositioning lower panel exactly as you was before you removed it, without pushing the lower panel in toward switch. If unit does not activate, or stops working after several minutes while thermostat is set to command unit to heat, an open switch may be the issue. To test for this, apply light physical pressure to lower panel, toward unit, over switch location. Cycle unit power switch off, then on. If unit activates and runs normally, insufficient panel pressure against switch, causing an open switch, may be source of problem. Possible fixes include putting lower panel back into place repositioned so that it presses more against switch, or taping a very thin shim (such as a square of cardboard cut from a cereal box, but must be done competently as tape and cardboard fluttering loose inside the blower compartment may lead to fan fouling issues) to the inside of the panel so that it depresses the switch more, or bending the panel so that it protrudes slightly toward switch (not recommended as once bent, panel is hard to get back into place properly, and bending may cause other issues), or carefully repositioning or nudging the switch toward panel (its fasteners may have come loose inside the unit frame, or switch may have vibrated out of place over time). If unit still will not cycle on, use a multimeter to see if the switch, when closed, allows current through the line (a continuity test). This might detect a bad switch. If the switch tests good, do a continuity test when the panel is in place, using alligator clip extension wires to test to see if the switch closes when panel is in place. Do this this test with main unit power turned off. If switch tests good when panel is removed while you are physically holding the switch closed, but tests open when panel is in place, manipulate/reposition/shim the lower panel as noted above.

Sounds like you have a bearing going in the blower unit or a loose belt. Get it serviced by a reputable service company.

Look on the motors. If there is a rubber cap (sometimes metal) on each end of the motor then a few drops of oil should be put in once a year.

Removing the front cover or turning the line switch off and back on causes a "HARD" reset to the furnace. That means, it breaks the line or supply voltage to the furnace and causes the main control board to reset. The main reason for requiring a hard reset is a failure to fire up correctly. There are several reasons for this to happen. If or when the flame sensor detects a flame determines the whole process. When the thermostat calls for heat, the ignition controller delivers spark to the pilot assembly and the pilot gas valve opens. If the sensor detects a pilot flame, the main gas valve opens and the main burners ignite. The pilot flame can be pulled away from the sensor when the main gas opens just long enough to cause this type of failure before the main flame is sensed. The furnace will shut down thinking it is feeding in raw gas with no pilot present to ignite it. All of this happens in just a few seconds. If there is a small window in the burner cover, you can watch it fire after the reset for a clue to the cause. If there is not an inspection window with a sealed combustion chamber to watch it through, it would be best to call a good tech. as it is dangerous with such a short period to ignite while all that gas is flooding the combustion chamber. Check to see if the line from the pilot to the gas valve is tight. If possible, try to move the sensor a little closer to the pilot. If this does not work, best to call a tech. who is familiar with your furnace. Other test with an open combustion chamber are very dangerous and best left to the pros.

Restarting after removing the power is how the equipment is designed to operate because removing power temporarily clears the fault code. Not starting could be caused by a number of built in safety devices such as roll out switches or partially blocked flue pipe. I've seen them with bird's nest in it. This should be looked at by a trained professional.

Check the pilot lt. If its out shutdown your furnace and call a repairman. If the pilot light is on, the flame sensor might have gone out. It's a long silver sensor that sits in the pilot light flame and senses when the flame is present. If it isn't working the furnace will automatically shut down.

Hi Shelley, I'm sorry this is late, I have a back problem and often times can not sit at the computer. Removing the front cover causes a "HARD" reset to the furnace. That means, it breaks the line or supply voltage to the furnace. The main reason for requiring a hard reset is a failure to fire up correctly. The flame on the sensor can vary between lighting the pilot and the main burner ignition. The flame can be pulled away from the sensor just long enough to cause this type of failure before the main flame is sensed. The furnace will shut down thinking it is feeding in raw gas with no pilot present to ignite it. All of this happens in just a couple seconds. If there is a small window in the burner cover, you can watch it fire by holding the switch in by hand. If there is not an inspection window with a sealed combustion chamber, it would be best to call a good tech. as it is dangerous with such a short period to ignite while all that gas is flooding the combustion chamber. Without knowing exactly how to do this, it could explode. BE CAREFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The only thing I would fuss with on a furnace is the optical sensor that checks to see if there is flame. It would be a metal tube sticking into the combustion chamber, with a lens inside, or a flat black plate near the igniter. The lens can get sooted, need to be cleaned off. Otherwise, it's a service call to check the gas control coils. Be real careful not to touch the igniter, it is super delicate.

Are the tips of the flame blue? You might need to adjust the air mixture sleeve on the burner.

YOUR FURNACE IS IN LOCKOUT MODE DUE TO A SAFETY FEATURE OF UNIT. USUALLY THE HIGH LIMIT HAS BEEN TRIPPED, OR YOU PRESSURE SWITCH FROM DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR FAULTY OR PLUGGED. IT WILL CONTINUE LOCKOUT MODE UNTIL THIS IS FIXED.

Put a volt meter on the red wire and the C terminal. You should get 24 volts AC. If not then the control transformer is shot

Hi,
Check for power out of the contactor...is the condenser fan running?? If so then the compressor should have power...could be the compressor capacitor...or a bad compressor.
Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool...

AirConditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

check your over-flow bottle & radiator for coolant ( this is the usual round silver cap in front of engine compartment // says DO NOT OPEN WHEN HOT !!!!!!!!! ) if empty ,look for leaks or have pressure tested for leak ------------ also check to see if electric radiator is turning on when it reaches operating temperature , this fan will also run or cycle on & off with the air conditioning on....--- if not check under hood fuse // relay for this circuit......

it's either an electrical problem or it has internal damage.

Not being sure about this model but do you have the air hose connected to the tire vent and does it meet the minimum requirements? This may be the only way that the compressor can know how much pressure is in the tire and to start counting.

Something is bent or misaligned as you reassemble. ..

eReplacement Parts keeps some, including head valve seal and O-rings. https://www.google.com/search?q=MasterCraft+Model+058-8179-2+parts ..

Check for leaks https://www.google.com/search?q=SINC+Compressor+low+sump+pressure+error ..