20 Most Recent Compaq (243890-001) 250-Watt Power Supply Questions & Answers

You can this device and test it by plugging into it:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16899705003

Remove Power Supply
1 . Shut down your computer and unplug the power cord and all cables connected to the system.

2 . Open the computer case and disconnect all power connectors from the motherboard, drives, cards and fans.

3 . Remove the four screws that secure the power supply to the case. These screws are located on the back of the computer case, at each corner of the power supply.

Wire and Start Power Supply
1 . Switch the power supply to the "Off" (sometimes "O") setting.

2 . Insert the end of one wire from a single pole, single throw (SPST) switch into the green wire of the ATX power connector (the largest power supply connector).

3 . Insert the end of the other wire from the SPST switch into the black wire of the ATX power connector. If your power supply has two black wires, connect the SPST to the black wire directly beside the green wire.

4 . Wrap electrical tape around the ATX power connector and wires from the SPST switch to hold them in place. Make sure there is no exposed copper or silver wire from the SPST switch wires.

5 . Turn the SPST switch to the "Off" position, if not already set. Plug the power supply into the wall outlet and switch it to the "On" (sometimes "I")setting.

6 . Connect any other computer components that you wish to operate without the motherboard, such as fans, drives or cards. Turn the SPST to the "On" setting to activate the power supply.


Hope the above information will be helpful to you.
Thanks.

well some of them run from a digital control switch but almost all hp compaq power supplies have a power switch on outside of box please provide s/n or service number for this to confirm

Pin Name Color Description
1 3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
2 3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
3 COM Black Ground
4 5V Red +5 VDC
5 COM Black Ground
6 5V Red +5 VDC
7 COM Black Ground
8 PWR_OK Gray Power Ok (is a status signal generated by the power supply to notify the computer that the DC operating voltages are within the ranges required for proper computer operation)
9 5VSB Purple +5 VDC Standby Voltage (max 10mA)
10 12V Yellow +12 VDC
11 3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
12 -12V Blue -12 VDC
13 COM Black Ground
14 /PS_ON Green Power Supply On (active low). Short this pin to GND to switch power supply ON, disconnect from GND to switch OFF.
15 COM Black Ground
16 COM Black Ground
17 COM Black Ground
18 -5V White -5 VDC
19 5V Red +5 VDC
20 5V Red +5 VDC

/PSON activated by pressing and releasing the power button while the power supply is in standby mode. Activating /PSON connects the power supply's /PSON input to ground, thereby switching the power supply to full-on condition.
18 AWG is recommended for all wires except pin 11, which should be 22 AWG. For 300W configurations 16 AWG is recommended.
There are several ATX variants.
Hope this helps.
If this helps you resolve your problem, please
consider giving me a rating of 4.It will help me as well. Thank you.

iNEED ONE OF THIS

On some Compaq models there may be an additional screw into the underside of the power supply, holding it to the metal brace across the case. Look for any additional screws like that, and be sure you've got them all out. Then, if it's still tough to get loose, gently tap it with a small rubber mallet. I used to fix Compaqs for a major retailer, and sometimes the supplies are just tight in the case. The little tap usually frees it. If you still have trouble, please post the model number of your computer and I'll try to help further.

bye a new one it will be much cheaper and time spare

i would buy one bud they r realy cheap and at least it will be garaunteed

You cannot economically repair a power supply.

Unless there is a glaring burnt solder joint you have to a scope and a schematic plus access to parts.

The average cost of a replacement unit from a PC shop is less than £25

Check the power cable/cord for continuity with your multimeter ok. Make sure also that the mains or power outlet is giving the right voltage. This is also done by the use of the multimeter - either analog or digital - any one at your disposal can do ok. if all work well, then the power supply unit should be removed from the system unit, connected directly with the power cord and then bridged. That is at the secondary output which connects to the system motheboard. Locate the power-on cable(normally green in colour) and bridge it with any black cable on the same row. The cooling fan at the back of the power unit should be rolling if the unit is ok. Good luck

Dear skytechcompu,

Power Supplies can be expensive!
I found your part for $146.00 @ http://www.partstore.com/Part/Hewlett+Packard/Compaq/243890001/Refurbished.aspx

You could order FixYa's Guaranteed Solution and try to fix the power supply yourself for less!

Hope this is Helpful!
jack

red black red - 2Kohm

There wouldn't be anything from the PSU giving power to your keyboard and mouse. The mobo handles that unless your giving your mobo the wrong amount it needs which might be why your P2P and USB arn't working. Although it is odd that your mouse isn't working with P2P as that requires less power.

Is this by chance a computer power supply? Does the computer come on when the power button is pushed? If so, then the fan itself is bad- bearings are stuck/lubricant dried up etc. Replacement fans are readily available at low cost.

if the power supply is dead, then likely an internal component has failed. If you have some tech savvy, a voltmeter, soldering/desoldering items & skill, you may be able to repair the supply. A very common failure is one or more electrolytic capacitors, and these may show visible signs of failure- bulged out end, and/or leakage.

ATX style power supplies, used in most machines of the past 8-10 years have both a standby and main section. The standby supplies a low current +5 volts to a small portion of the motherboard. When the pwr button is pushed, the main section comes on, and supplies +5 (Red wires), +12 (Yellow wires), +3.3 (Orange wires), -5, -12. Look here for this info http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml

Voltages are precisely regulated, and any substantial deviation (more than a few 10ths of a volt) indicate a problem, especially on the +5 & +3.3 lines.

Anyway, you could make these checks. Replacement electrolytics- use the Panasonic FC series (designed for switching power supplies) available from Digi-key electronics, or equivalents (Mouser electronics another possible supplier).

I'd assume this machine uses an ATX design power supply. ATX and other late designs (after the days of the AT style units) have a standby voltage supply which powers just a small portion of the motherboard circuitry (voltage= +5 volts). Your problem is likely caused by one or more electrolytics in this standby section. If you open the supply, you should see at least 2 switching transformers, likely sitting close to each other. One will be large (for the main/full power) and a small one (for the standby section). Usually the bad capacitor is on the primary side (on the side where the switching transistor is). It may be a 10MFD/50Volt or 47MFD/25Volt, or some value close. If the bad cap is on the secondary side (the section which is connected to your motherboard), then the value will be something like a 1000MFD/10Volt or 16Volt, or 1500MFD, 2200MFD. This capacitor will be physically larger than the one noted for the primary side. I can't tell you the exact location on the board where these capacitors might be, except they will be close to the small transformer mentioned above. If you have a digital camera, and could take a pic or 2, I might be able to point to the exact suspect part. You could send pic to [email protected]. Of course, you need a solder iron/solder, and a little skill...

Windows 7 should be the OS. If you go to safe mode, it should complete booting and then you can list the errors but I suspect there is a driver error. Maybe the wrong version in there.