20 Most Recent Makita Jr3000v Reciprocating Saws Questions & Answers

It sounds like one of the teeth on the main gear is missing. Parts list @ Makita.com or call Makita at 1-800-462-5482

Just join the two wires together if they work by providing current, or disconnect if they work by being open circuit. Microswitches are normally safety related so bypassing them is not recommended. Just replace the switch if it is faulty. £13.99 https://www.google.com/search?q=microswitches+on+makita+LB1200F+bandsaw ..

First thing I would check are the Carbon Brushes. The are # 75 in the picture



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clean and check for debris

https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+work+makita+ls1013+without+controller+device&oq=How+to+work+makita+ls1013+without+controller+device&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

If you have removed the kerf boards and the center bolt the saw will lift straight off the turn base. It is possible the aluminum is deformed a little, but it will pull straight up and off if that bolt is out

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1170716/Makita-2414en.html?page=9

spray with lubricant

may be to late for lube noise either bearing or gear worn /debris or damaged

You are increasing the load on the bearings.

Hello Derek, it seems that your motor or motor brushes have failed please contact the manufacture about replacing the motor brushes.

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All portable power tools including saws and most tradesman type saw benches use the light and powerful series wound brush-type motor that doesn't use a start capacitor. The single phase induction motor that does use a start capacitor is far too bulky and heavy for portable tools but is found in many of the static workshop tools. The powerful brush type motor is electrically very noisy and is almost permanently at the edge of self destructing. Good suppression to prevent radio and tv interference is necessary and this also helps protect the motor but a mains transient or power surge while in use can cause an internal surge destroying the insulation of the windings rendering the motor useless in a millisecond. This could be what happened to your saw though it could equally be an internal short circuit in the power cord or inside the saw and these things must be checked before either writing off the tool or sending it for repair.

The principle of the series wound brush type motor is fairly straightforward with a field coil set either side of an armature that is mounted in bearings with a commutator and brush gear mounted at one end, the circuit consists of a field coil, the armature and the other field coil connected in series. The air gap between the rotor and stator is small but large enough to allow free rotation even when hot - electrically there should be continuity through the circuit from the start of one field coil to the end of the other though typically the dc resistance will be found to be low but will rise sharply when the armature is spun... The checking of the wiring, switch and motor circuit is largely intuitive and well within the scope of the handyperson though the proper testing of electronic speed controls or soft starts is beyond most folk, fortunately though, these things are usually in the form of a module that either work or don't and if the remainder of the circuit tests ok it is reasonable to assume the module is defective and it is usually reasonable to bypass such a module to test motor operation before spending cash. Professional equipment sold in many parts of the world must be fitted with an electric brake designed to stop rotation in one second when switched off - as yet I haven't had to delve into such things. This design of motor is electrically very noisy and high powered motors are perpetually at the edge of self-destruction and effective suppression is important to prevent electrical interference to receiving equipment and to some extent protect the motor. Suppression takes on a variety of forms from a through-module containing a variety of chokes and capacitors to discrete components. It isn't unusual for a suppressor module to fail - they often don't age well...

A failed power supply, broken on/off switch, bad motor overload, broken power cord or failed drive motor can prevent the table saw motor from starting. First, try resetting the overload. If the table saw motor won't start after resetting the overload, then the saw may not be getting power from the electrical outlet.

pull the gard off you shoud have rinches which came with the nut isclock wise

gently keep tapping it while holding release pressure till it turns could take a lot of tapping but it will break free

sounds like a bad connection make sure brushes are moving freely