No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur waterpressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.
mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.
Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! Troubleshooting Why the Washer Won Agitate PartSelect com
Must have disconnected the wires to the lock switch or damaged it it is situated near the door seal to the right were the door locks you can fixet from the top cover once taken off hope this helps you can also test it by inserting a screwdriver small dimention once inserted you shoul hear a clicking sound by pressing it start program and the light should go off if it does not then the result is damaged or you have accidentally disconnected the wires fro it.
Sounds like the valve that shuts off the water inlet is letting by. It could have something trapped in there, but I would have thought that would flush out when filling at full flow when in use, so I would suspect it is worn and just not sealing properly or the solenoid is faulty.
You have 2 options:
Replace the valve/solenoid......at a cost
Isolate the water when not in use.....for free
Simply closing the isolating valve at the end of your hose is the easiest and cheapest option as long as it is easily accessible. Replacing the valve may well need an expert due to its' location and how it is fitted. If an older machine it may not be readily available or cheap or even worth the expense versus the cost of a new machine.
Best bet is to isolate the water until you decide where to go next.
Good luck and I hope that is of some help.
if not at front then at the back, usually has a plastic cover that has to be removed with filter attached. it may be that ur pump propeller is blocked or broken? However I would also check the motor coupler or belt depending on direct drive or belt drive, also check clutch and the door switch , check with multi meter for continuity. any of these can stop it from spinning and thus no draining?
return the machine from where it came from
its defective and not sold as claimed to be
so.. dont waist your time trying to fix its broken firmware
its defo a duffer...
you will find that it is like that on these models, the temp sensor is just a bit of metal and it heats up and then opens the circuit then when it cools down close the circuit and starts to heat up again. over time it will turn off quicker as the bit of metal or copper depending what was fitted will cut of quicker.
