20 Most Recent Mossberg 500 AllPurpose Field Shotgun 20 Gauge Questions & Answers

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Read the barrel on the top, left side, back near the receiver. It'll tell you the gauge, the chamber length, the choke type etc. if it says "fixed choke", it's forged into the barrel and can't be changed. If it's a "poly choke", older gun, it'll have grip knurlings on the barrel muzzle that you twist. If it's a "win choke" or "accu-choke", it has a removeable choke tube in the muzzle of the barrel. There will be two notches that fit a choke tool. Seriously, though, just fire the gun as it was when you bought it and don't even bother with the choke until you get some experience and know what you want. This is a bit older question so there's no doubt in my mind you already answered your own question and are an expert with the gun. This answer is more aimed at the folks who will search on the same topic and might see this. Great gun, btw....congrats!

did you check the elevator to make sure its not applying the pressure on the cartridge interrupter and cartridge stop? or that one or both aren't damaged and over bent. the ejector slot on the bolt isn't damaged, or the action slide bars.

Check the extractor on it .

And we would like to help you but you did not ask for any help and we don't know what you need information about

Is it an semi auto or bolt action could be the safety is not all the way released if the semi is open any at all it will not fire and the same for a bolt action the bolt has to be all the way down hope this helps Merry Christmas

WRONG!!! A 283TB doesn't have tube magazine, it has a box magazine that's loaded through the breach. Put on the safety, load a shell fully into the barrel. Then press the second shell into the magazine-back end first. Then press the second shell down in the magazine with the third shell, back side first again. Then press both shells in the magazine down until the bolt can be slipped back forward and close the breach.

Try gunpartscorps.com aka Numrich Arms

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Not much can go wrong. Have you checked your extractor? If it's intact and not broken, try moving it with your thumbnail. Is it loose? That's a spring problem. If it's tight and intact, WITH THE BOLT OUT, try slipping a small diam wooden dowel down the barrel to see how hard it is to push a spent shell out. If it's tight, you've got a burr in the chamber or dirt/varnish buildup. Examine the shell for scratches. If the shell's good and no scratches, clean the chamber with a brass brush mounted in a drill.

Numrich or Ebay. It's a model 500 firing pin. Same firing pin on all the 500 type guns.

I'm guessing it's a cantilever barrel? Mount is part of the barrel? Sticks back over the receiver? If it's not, then it should already have rifle sights. If it's a cantilever, why not mount a scope as it's designed? You can go 2 or 4 power fixed and you'll have no probs. The prob with using the mount as a sight is there is no front sight....and irons require a front and back to line up the shot. Having a back but no front, you have no sight radius.

A 500? A 535? A 590? A 600? An 835? All the same, the classic 500 action. The forearm is designed with separate action bars that are pinned in place at the action bar collar on the action slide tube. The pivoting bars made binding and bending of the bars an impossibility and allowed the gun to function even when wet and dirty as sporting guns tend to get. At that time, the late 50's, bent action bars were a pretty common thing. At that time, replacement parts weren't an Ebay bid away. The Mossy pinned bars made the Mossy 500 work well and keep working when others didn't. It's designed to be a bit loose....but today's parts are easy to come by. If you want to stop the looseness, there's an easy way. Remove the forearm wood, make sure the gun is unloaded, of course, and then pull the action slide tube all the way back as if you were pumping it to shoot. With it ALL THE WAY BACK, heat and solder the joint where the bars are pinned to the collar. Takes just a dab of solder on both sides. Word of warning....it is NOT easily reversible! If you don't like the solid feel later, it'll mean a new action slide tube!

Same as all Model 500's. Bolt halfway open, remove barrel, remove trigger group pin, trigger group, both shell stops, bolt carrier, bolt, lifter. Reverse to reassemble. Seriously, head to youtube and watch a video. You can go step by step with the video. The only key spot you need to watch out for is the bolt/bolt carrier when you take it apart and put it back together. The carrier will just ever so slightly clear the front of the inner rail on the receiver....and when you out it back together, put the bolt into that spot, put the forearm back on so the action bars are down next to the bolt, and then drop the bolt carrier back in to link the bolt and action bars back together. Once the cvarrier is in that perfect spot, it'll drop right into the slots. Just slide it a hair forward so the rails slightly block it in and then do the stops. Next key spot....and this is one a lot of folks mess up so don't feel bad. You aren't alone. The pins in the trigger group have to be centered all the way to get the trigger group in right. Use your fingers to center them on both sides, slip the front edges into the trigger group hole to catch the two front tabs, and then GENTLY lower the group in and pin it. DO NOT FORCE IT IN!!! Those tabs break.

Pretty much all bolt action bolts work the same. You need to relieve the spring force. That means pulling back on the cocking knob. The head will come off easily then. You need to have the bolt in the exact condition it's in when cocked, cocking knob back, to disassemble it. Reverse that to reassemble.