20 Most Recent Canon EOS Rebel Ti / 300V 35mm SLR Camera - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There are two screws you will need to remove. They are near where the strap connects to the body, (on the side with the red shutter button). They each have a small arrow pointing to them. Remove these screws and then the cover and you will see the battery.

I would suspect the battery is low on power, camera batteries can be checked for sufficient power at a local camera stores. Most camera stores have a meter that checks the battery capacity. You may just need a replacement battery.

If you are asking if the Canon Elan IIe is worth repairing I would say yes as long as the repair estimate doesn't exceed the cost of replacing it with another used one then yes it's worth fixing.

The Canon EOS is a digital line of cameras from what I can tell. If that is the case, then there is no film in the camera.

However, assuming that you actually have a 35mm camera with film stuck in it, the following should work for. You don't indicate what you mean by stuck, but the standard solution for removing 35mm film from a camera is to take the camera into a dark room, open the back of the camera and remove the film and canister, being careful to not tear the film. While still in the dark room, place the film into a light proof bag to avoid spoiling it when it goes into the light. You can then contact a local photo processor about their ability to process the loose film. Make sure that the bag is clearly marked to avoid having someone open it by accident, spoiling the film in the light. If you can't find someone locally who can process the film, Kodak can do it for you in Rochester, New York. Contact them for instructions on shipping the film.

If you don't care about the film or pictures it may contain, feel free to simply open the camera and remove the cansiter and film, discard it, and start over.

Are you pushing the rewind button on the bottom of the camera??

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Try here:

http://www.photo-manuals.com/manual/canon/film-slr-camera/a1/

http://butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_a-1/canon_a-1.htm

Your camera is an APS film camera. The cameras are obsolete now as APS was a short-lived format, but you can still get film for them quite easily.

Click the following link or cut and paste the address into your browser address bar:-

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=aps+film&x=0&y=0

I hope that you have found my free answer to be helpful, please respond by taking a moment to rate my reply.

You have a few options:-

1. If you shoot negatives, then just use the cheapest unstable voltage lithium equivalent (LR9/V625U). Negative film and the printing process has a wide exposure latitude and so most users won't notice any fault.

2. Use the silver oxide equivalent (S625PX) which has a stable output voltage of 1.55v which is higher than the 1.35v original. Again you can either rely on exposure latitude, or if you shoot transparencies you have the additional option of compensating by up to one or two stops as necessary by adjusting the film speed dial. As the output voltage is constant, so is the compensation for the life of the battery. Or you can get a camera technician to recalibrate the meter to suit the higher voltage. Compensating has a downside though and it's that you're effectively shifting the EV scale so you may lose some of the exposure range which your meter can cope with.

3. Use a Weincell MR625 Zinc/Air battery. This has the correct voltage but they don't last as long and cost more than the other batteries listed so far.

4. Use a CrisCam MR9 adaptor. This is a one off purchase of a voltage reducing adaptor which houses a silver oxide cell. You can move it from camera to camera, and as the voltage has been reduced rather than compensated for you retain the full EV range of your meter. If you live in North America it's cheaper to buy directly from the US manufacturer, but they charge really silly money for shipping overseas.

5. Although I have an MR9 adaptor, I've switched to using an excellent and technically superior alternative which is custom made to order by Frans De Gruitjer in the Netherlands. It's about half the price of the MR9 adaptor, has superior output characteristics which mean it's also suited to cameras with a high current drain. Or you can make your own, from scratch, using very comprehensive instructions he provides or make one using a kit he provides. If you buy them ready-built, then postage is included if ordering within Europe and they have a five year warranty. For current details on prices and availability, contact Frans at [email protected] . There's no language barrier as he speaks perfect English. Unlike the CrisCam unit the adapter is supplied without a battery but you can obtain the correct SR44's easily elsewhere. Frans also allows purchasers three months to return the adapter for a refund for any reason at all.

Please note that many of the links are to a UK battery supplier. I'm not connected with them in any way, but if you're in the UK/Europe I highly recommend them. However, my reason for linking to them is solely for the comprehensive information they provide.

Good luck whatever you decide, and I trust that you will return the favour by taking a brief moment to rate my answer.

are the battery pick ups clean? and is the film pick ups clean,,
if the film pick ups are not clean the camera wont know how long the film is,,ie 24 or 36ex?

That question is impossible to answer. Among other things, it depends on what you're taking a picture of, and what you want to do with it. Taking a picture of a landscape requires different settings than taking a portrait of a person. Taking a closeup picture of a flower requires different settings from the other two.

Even of the same subject, settings may vary according to the intended use of the photo. Taking a picture for your scrapbook of your house with your family playing in the yard would be done differently from taking a picture of your house to advertise it for sale.

If there was one best setting for all pictures, the camera would have it. Cameras give you a variety of settings so you can adjust them to suit the situation.

May I suggest a visit to your local library? They should have some books on photography, explaining things like apertures, shutter speeds, depth of field, and why you would want to control some or all of them for certain purposes.

http://butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_eos_rebel-x_rebel-xs/canon_eos_rebel-x_rebel-xs.htm

6400 cm^2

http://butkus.org/chinon/canon_point_and_shoot/canon_pointandshoot.htm

Canon began manufacturing the FTb in 1971. You can see the page for this model at Canon's Camera Museum. Its replacement was the FTb-N, which came out in 1973. I don't know if you can find exactly when your camera was made, but it's probably safe to assume that it was between 1971 and 1973.

You can download a manual from the manufacturer's web site at http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&tabact=DownloadDetailTabAct&fcategoryid=324&modelid=19211

On a Canon 35mm SLR camera? You'll be much more likely to get a useful answer if you repost this question under an appropriate topic.