20 Most Recent Samsung RB195ACWP Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Can you feel the compressor top to see if too hot to keep your hand there? Tell me if the fan is running next to the compressor and if the evaporator fan is running. If the compressor and fan are running normally I need you to remove the cover over the evaporator inside the back of the freezer and see what the frost pattern looks like. (provide photo of evaporator frost pattern)? I can help you find the problem if you respond to my questions. Hopefully this is only a start relay overload and run capacitor. Here is a list of parts=> http://www.repairclinic.com/vwo7/Shop-For-Parts/a4b160d1067876/Model-RB195ACWP-Samsung-Refrigerator-Parts?sml=true?RCAID=35836Try to upload photo here but if unable I will provide my contact info. Below is a photo of a refrigerator evaporator that shows that the refrigerator is leaking Freon. APPLIANCE 911

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Annonymous, what problem are you trying to solve? Is the water at the bottom of the refrigerator because the fridge is not cooling? If that then unplug the fridge, Keep the fridge and the freezer doors open after salvaging food items. Keep it unplugged for about 12 hrs and any ice buildup in the back wall will melt. You will see a pool of water on the floor. Clean that and the inside of fridge and freezer. Re-connect. You might get lucky!

One line hooks to the water supply, the other line hooks to the ice maker. How old is refig?

Check the Control Settings: Ensure that the temperature settings for both the fridge and freezer compartments are appropriately configured. Sometimes incorrect settings can lead to cooling problems. Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it is, disable demo mode by referring to your user manual. Inspect the Door Seals: Damaged or worn-out door seals can cause cold air to leak out, resulting in insufficient cooling in the fridge compartment. Inspect the door seals for any cracks, tears, or gaps. If you find any issues, consider replacing the door seals. Evaporator Coil and Fan Check: The evaporator coils in the fridge play a crucial role in cooling. If they are frozen or malfunctioning, it can affect cooling. Similarly, check if the fan responsible for distributing cold air inside the fridge is working correctly. Reset the Refrigerator: Sometimes a simple reset can resolve cooling issues. Unplug the fridge from the power source for a few minutes, then plug it back in. Observe if there's any improvement in cooling after the reset. Compressor Overheating: You mentioned that the compressor is very hot. An overheated compressor can impact cooling. Allow the compressor to cool down completely before switching the fridge back on.

Check the coolant level and pressure when cooling. You may need to evacuate the system and reload it with the correct anount of gas.

Compressors are noisy due to its job. Check there is no packaging between the motor and any other part as that can increase the noise.

The make appears to be known for beeping. Try a power reset. Pull the wall plug for 5 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RFG297HDRS+cool+select+pantry+keeps+beeping Video

could be just the coil on the valve, but most more likely valve getting stuck as it opens. somtimes can take apart and clean, will work for awhile, but if have the cash best just swap it out. will save you hassel down the road.My Aplogies I was under the impression you had already located the valve. I as I have not seen unit I can not give the location, However since it is on the water system, I would trace water tubing from where it connects to unit. It should not be far from inlet connection. Look for tubing going to a valve with wires ontop, ensure after the valve is where you whish water/ice to come out. Once that is located take photo and order new valve, or secure water remove and clean valve. Note have container ready as water will leak once you remove valve.

First I would clean all grim. Second if you do not have refrigerant gauges feel discharge line with hand. Will be a smaller line and coverd with foam. It should be hot to condensor. if not You probabaly lost charge. Also top of compressor should be hot. Should the above not meet specs. You need to find leak, get a pro. to locate repair leak, as you need licenese to go further.

Manny MANY unfortunate customers who bought this **** from Samsung have problem.
Specifically the Freezer cold but fridge side no lower than 55deg problem.

It is a known defect that Samsung has not taken ownership of. I have the same problem with the same model as many.. if you search the net. Iv'e been trying to find a designated website for repairs for this problem. Please post website with solution if anyone finds it. Thanks

Unplug the fridge, wait 2 minutes and plug back in. If symptoms remain then likely it was damaged. If you don't have a whole house surge suppressor then you need one. Modern appliances are extremely susceptible to voltage spikes.