DO NOT use anything but a dedicated stainless steel cleaner. Some types of Windex have ammonia as one of the ingredients and you can imagine what that will do to your stainless steel finish.
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Top Freezer Thermistor Testing ReplacementKenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...Freezer Frost RepairRefrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM
Suspect that the rubber boot that runs all around the edge of your freezer door is deformed, allowing warm air to seep into your freezer. You will see where your temp sensor is located by clicking into the site of a parts supplier like ShopJimmy.com and pulling up their photo of the guts of your unit. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gramps_bab85ce284d72c1d
This should be automatic. What is the problem--too litte ice? Do you have a in line water filter out side of unit? Filter in the fridge? Check for dirty filter and you may fix the issue of not enough water getting thru.
Check the Control Settings:
Ensure that the temperature settings for both the fridge and freezer compartments are appropriately configured. Sometimes incorrect settings can lead to cooling problems.
Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it is, disable demo mode by referring to your user manual.
Inspect the Door Seals:
Damaged or worn-out door seals can cause cold air to leak out, resulting in insufficient cooling in the fridge compartment. Inspect the door seals for any cracks, tears, or gaps.
If you find any issues, consider replacing the door seals.
Evaporator Coil and Fan Check:
The evaporator coils in the fridge play a crucial role in cooling. If they are frozen or malfunctioning, it can affect cooling.
Similarly, check if the fan responsible for distributing cold air inside the fridge is working correctly.
Reset the Refrigerator:
Sometimes a simple reset can resolve cooling issues. Unplug the fridge from the power source for a few minutes, then plug it back in.
Observe if there's any improvement in cooling after the reset.
Compressor Overheating:
You mentioned that the compressor is very hot. An overheated compressor can impact cooling.
Allow the compressor to cool down completely before switching the fridge back on.
could be just the coil on the valve, but most more likely valve getting stuck as it opens. somtimes can take apart and clean, will work for awhile, but if have the cash best just swap it out. will save you hassel down the road.My Aplogies I was under the impression you had already located the valve. I as I have not seen unit I can not give the location, However since it is on the water system, I would trace water tubing from where it connects to unit. It should not be far from inlet connection. Look for tubing going to a valve with wires ontop, ensure after the valve is where you whish water/ice to come out. Once that is located take photo and order new valve, or secure water remove and clean valve. Note have container ready as water will leak once you remove valve.
First I would clean all grim. Second if you do not have refrigerant gauges feel discharge line with hand. Will be a smaller line and coverd with foam. It should be hot to condensor. if not You probabaly lost charge. Also top of compressor should be hot. Should the above not meet specs. You need to find leak, get a pro. to locate repair leak, as you need licenese to go further.
Manny MANY unfortunate customers who bought this **** from Samsung have problem. Specifically the Freezer cold but fridge side no lower than 55deg problem.
It is a known defect that Samsung has not taken ownership
of.
I have the same problem with the same model as many.. if you search the
net.
Iv'e been trying to find a designated website for repairs for this
problem. Please post website with solution if anyone finds it.
Thanks
Unplug the fridge, wait 2 minutes and plug back in. If symptoms remain then likely it was damaged. If you don't have a whole house surge suppressor then you need one. Modern appliances are extremely susceptible to voltage spikes.
First: i don't know. In the manual there should be some pages for solving dysfunction and what the lights mean.
Always check for damage on the closed and pressurized system, including inside, where the tubular radiators are, mostly half within the panels. Those may have broken when using tools to remove ice or been hit rough with some object.
For a right understanding: the fridge must not be shaken or tilted and carried. When this has happened, then the evaporation fluid or refrigerant can be mixed with the oil that resides on the bottom of the compressor. It may only have a small sponge to clear the fluid from a little oil contamination. What finally solves the mixing is shutting the fridge off for 24 hours and when not completely satisfied with the result, immediately for another 24 hours.
Another thought is that a fridge may not function at all, in a cold room. Transfer of heat is totally not the same at all temperatures. Many people have been the same disappointed as you, thinking they can find a cold place for the fridge or freezer. So, when this has happened when the room temperature dropped dramatically, get it out of the cold or shut it down because it performs at its maximum capacity. That is where my bet is at.
The radiator at the back can also not function right when it is close the wall and/or an object is placed right above it. The heat must be dispersed. Best of luck
