My Samsung RS265TDRS side by side Refrigerator side Not Cooling. Freezer is fine.
Get a high power wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner and use the blower side to blow through the vents from freezer to refrigerator. The frost on the "evaporator" acts as an insulator, no matter how slight. You need to do a process of elimination of individual components in the defrost circuit and test for conditions, which I call the three "C's": Circuit Condition, or Component. This tactic can be applied in any electromechanical device. With the Wet/Dry high power vacuum cleaner blower end, use it to defrost the evaporator completely, if you can have someone put a hair dryer or heat gun on the suction side of the wet/dry, it will speed up the process. Afterwards, check that the freezer evaporator fan is running and that all cowlings are installed and clear. Close the freezer and put your hand on the top part of the refrigerator and feel for cool air from the vent. Then open the freezer door and the draft should increase quite a bit, if not, you have a clogged ventilation. Check to see that your defrost kicks in for no less than 10 minutes in a 10 hour window. Usually the defrost timer runs for 6 to 10 hours and a defrost cycle runs for 10 to 30 minutes. Be careful and don't burn yourself because the defrost heater has around 40 ohms of resistance, which equates to around 360 Watts of heat. If a 100 Watt light bulb can burn you, imagine 3.6 times that amount. The defrost timer operates the defrost heater, or the compressor motor and fans, but not both. So, if the fans are not running, the defrost heater should be energized, if the defrost bi-metal thermostat switch is working properly. Said switch should be changed in no more than a 10 year run because they are rated to run 10,000 times, which equates to 9 years 1-1/2 months. It's similar to a vehicles thermostat, if you change the water pump, you need to change the thermostat too because it is a mechanical device working under the laws of thermodynamics, and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. So, to start off the bat, if you are going to begin to troubleshoot and do your own repairs, start by buying said switch. It costs from around $4 to $75 depending on your manufacturer. Get a similar switch and piggyback it over your existing switch as a trouble shooting tool, over 75% of the chances its that, but always confirm your diagnosis then confirm the bad part with proper tests. After the repair, confirm the repair, never try to second guess yourself because it will bite you. Be aware of the high voltages present, and the sharp fins of the evaporator. If the switch, and/or the heater are good then it mght be your defrost timer. Disconnect the timer and jumper between #4 and #1, that will run the defrost heater if the switch is good. Jumper #4 and #2 will run the compressor motor and fans. Never, ever jumper #4 and #3 because you will experience something very bad, like a loud bright spark arc as it melts your jumper and hopefully trips your house circuit breaker and not electrocute you. Watch several Youtube videos and read blogs on fixing your refrigerator defrost problem and enjoy the experience as it will save you a lot of money from a professional guessing, replacing, hoping and praying that he fixed it, with your nickle.
9/19/2017 7:32:07 AM •
on Sep 19, 2017