20 Most Recent Toshiba Satellite A45-S151 Notebook Questions & Answers

Just to be sure, check the temperature of the system with any 3rd party softwares and see whether its in the optimal range.

try pressing the delete button when the bios shows on screen. if that is not the button, try pressing F2. If you are not seeing the post screen (the one that tells you what button to press) press the TAB key when you turn it on and a picture comes up telling you "toshiba something something"

Windows XP is no longer supported, you are wasting your time.

Please download this file and install it. After install restart your machine. The sound should work . File to download: http://support.toshiba.com/support/modelHome?freeText=626343

download the video driver from dell website and install also do one more thing that upgrade the bios driver with this in your laptop

windows will find it itself with automatic updates

Clear the CMOS to remove the password - Here's the procedure (citing the relevant pages of the Toshiba maintenance manual): 1. Remove the main battery pack (p. 4-8). 2. Remove the hard drive (p. 4-13). The covers is secured with both screws and plastic "snaps," so you'll need to use something with a thin blade to gently (!) pry it loose with after you remove the screws; I used one of the flathead screwdrivers from my precision screwdriver set. 3. Remove the heat sink and CPU covers (p. 4-16)-just the covers, not the heat sink or CPU themselves. These covers are also secured with both screws and plastic "snaps." Note: While you're here, this would be a good time to take some compressed air and blow the dust out of the heat sink fins and CPU fan (remember to not overspeed the fan). 4. Remove the optical drive (p. 4-20). I'm not sure that this step is really necessary, as I can't see how the optical drive would affect the shell disassembly, but it's easy to do-if nothing else it removes a lot of weight, and will make the laptop easier to handle later. Since the case holes have no threads, I just threaded these screws into the holes in the optical drive itself in order to keep track of them. Note: Before reassembly, I gave the full system a thorough blow-out with compressed air; a lot of dust came out through the open optical drive bay, so that may be reason enough to remove it now. 5. Remove the keyboard (p. 4-23). Do also remove the "keyboard hold plate" and "keyboard support plate" and set them aside; note how they are oriented, so that you can put them back in place correctly later. Be gentle when pulling out the keyboard cable from the mainboard connector-I used a side-to-side shimmy motion to ease it out. 6. Remove the wireless LAN board cover and carefully disconnect the wireless LAN antenna leads (p. 4-28). I used the needle-nose pliers to disconnect the antenna leads from their mounting posts on the wireless LAN board-just pull straight up (gently!). Note that the black antenna lead connects to the post nearest the screen hinge, while the white lead connects to the post nearest the wrist rest. You do not need to remove the wireless LAN board itself, so just skip those steps. 7. Remove the CD/DVD (audio) play button circuit board (p. 4-33). Disconnecting the thin ribbon cable connector looks scary, but it slips right out with a gentle tug. 8. Remove the display assembly (p. 4-34). This is where you'll go bugnuts keeping track of the screws if you're not using my Scotch tape method! Note that by "display assembly," we're talking about the LCD screen assembly and the upper half of the laptop shell. Note 1: In addition to the two screws show in figure 4-20 on p. 4-35, there are two other screws that need to be removed that I can't find mentioned anywhere in the manual. These screws are located next to the memory module bay (one "above" and one in the "top right" corner; "up" means toward the screen hinge); both have "B4" marked in plastic next to their holes. Note 2: Disconnecting all the (tiny!) cable connectors in step #7 goes easiest with the small needle-nose pliers, grasping the plastic head of each connector and pulling straight back (I suspect that standard size needle-nose pliers will prove to have tips too thick for this delicate work). Whatever you do, resist the temptation to just tug on the wires to disconnect the cables! Note 3: The display assembly has plastic "snaps" in addition to screws, so you may need to do a little gentle levering to remove it. 9. Remove and replace the RTC battery (p. 4-43). You'll need to be careful to maneuver the "insulator" tab around the ribbon cable for the LED board, but it's manageable without removing the LED board. 10. Reassemble the laptop in the reverse order of disassembly (hope you know where all the screws are!). Note on reversing step #7 (CD/DVD play button circuit board): The connector socket for the ribbon cable is on the bottom of the board, inset from the edge. Consequently, I found that it was easier to reinsert the ribbon cable into the connector socket before putting the circuit board back into place. Also, because this ribbon cable doesn't have a hard plastic plug on the end, I had to gently (!) grip the ribbon cable with needle-nose pliers in order to reinsert it into the connector socket (which is just a thin slot, and somewhat hard to see while positioning the circuit board). Be careful to not put too much pressure on the ribbon cable--it's relatively fragile due to its thinness. Note on reversing step #6 (wireless LAN antenna): The antenna leads are on the small side; while easy to position over their sockets on the LAN board, pushing them onto the sockets would be difficult to do with a finger tip. My solution was to take my needle-nose pliers, close them, then use the closed tip of the pliers to apply moderate pressure to the cable connectors until I felt them snap into place. Note that I did not grip the cable connectors with the pliers--I only used the closed tip of the pliers to apply the necessary pressure. You should now be able to boot up the laptop (after setting the clock, of course)-unless, like the one I'm working on, there are other problems to fix...

PC BIOS toolkit is a password removal/decrypt and BIOS settings modification/backup/restore. http://www.syschat.com/download120.html&act=down CMOSPwd - CMOS password recovery tools http://majorgeeks.com/CmosPwd_d239.html Using a computer with Internet access, download the files from these WEB sites and create a bootable CD disc to run them.

Toshiba Satellite A45 S150

Toshiba Satellite A45 S120

Toshiba Satellite A45 Recovery Cd

Toshiba Satellite A45 S250 Parts

Toshiba Satellite Dvd Decoder

Toshiba Satellite 1735 Dvd Rom

Toshiba Satellite P25 S5263 Dvd

Toshiba Satellite Drivers

Good Luck, Please dont for get to Vote/Thank you.

hi i think the problem of your laptop is your LCD, if you hooked up to CRT monitor have a Display,..now your problems is LCD..maybe you need to replace your LCD..for some tips about computer and Laptop problems click here

That blinking cursor is the way in which the BIOS is telling you that Windows is not loading because its most critical, core files have been corrupted beyond repair. The only thing you can do is to reinstall using the recovery cd or your own Windows install disk.

restart your computer repeatedly tapping the f8 key to enter safe mode while the screen is black once in safe mode where the only things working will be your keyboard and mouse allowing you to attempt to repair your computer you could select the option start at last known configuration that worked this will tell you if and what file has been corrupted or missing then you will know if its a hardware issue then select restart if the problem still persists f8 back into safe mode you might need to select your operating system to load into safe mode click start control panel administration tools computer management in the left panel events + to expand then system you will see all errors in right panel right click select properties this will tell you what has occurred and the time it occurred you might use the system restore to restore your system to an earlier time click start all programs accessories system tools you should see your system restore option if it is a hardware issue the system restore might not work

hope this helps you

test all leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions SATA

the leads from your ((motherboard to your hard drive)) make sure they have a secure connection and are not faulty or just replace them they could be faulty

make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd\cd have secure connections and are not faulty or just replace them they could be faulty

even something as small as an electrical extension or a faulty fan lead can cause you problems computer needs all of the data and power to travel through every working device and to have an end for a computer to be able work properly

a motherboard and a hard drive any leads between them will fail before your motherboard or your hard drive check all electrical extensions make sure they are securely seated even the cd/dvd drives need to have current go through make sure these devices are working

check the cpu make sure it has dust free secure seating

also check your computer ram modules to make sure they are dust free and securely seated

hope this helps you

Original hard drive for the Toshiba Satellite A45-S15160GB hard disk drive, enhanced IDE (ATA-5) interface, 4200rpm drive rotation, 9.5mm height, 0.2lbs, service removable.

The RTC battery is a rechargeable Li-ion "clock" battery that's buried underneath the keyboard - it keeps date and time going when your computer is turned off. If you're getting this message, you should go follow the screen prompt, hit F1 to enter Setup, and set the date and time, leave the computer on for several hours to charge it (the clock battery recharges only with the computer turned on) and it should go away.

In the rare event that your RTC battery is bad, it's really up to you as to getting it replaced or not - it's a lotta work, and not all the battery vendors out there is competent enough to sell you the right kind of battery (installing a non-rechargeable Lithium battery will kill the thing outright, and there are actually people selling these....). Not having a working RTC battery doesn't really interfere with the workings of the computer - you'll just have to set date and time every time you start it, and you can do so manually or by downloading some freeware such as Atomic Clock Sync to automatically do it for you.

A BIOS update may still not allow you to boot up from an USB port.
You can download theBIOS updates and device drivers for your model laptop from the Toshiba WEB site from theirdownload page. Make sure you enter the model of your laptop so you can get thecorrect drivers. Please click on this link: - http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/home.jsp http://blitware.com/adpages/driverfetch/manufacturer/?manufacturer=Toshiba&gclid=CMOVxNCBx6ACFSgnawodoHNGbA

If it's only a drop ... what harm could it do, right? But if it shut down and never turns back on, then it's dead. The A40 and A45 series are just about bulletproof and only a spill could kill these things; The cheapest way to get back into the game would be to buy a used machine (whole or partial) on eBay for $30- $50, then just stick your hard drive and memory and WiFi card into the replacement and that ought to get you back into the game right quick. That'd be what I'd do.

Toshiba's A40 series and A45 series are ... one and the same. There's a couple of models (I believe the S120/ S121 models that don't come with built-in WiFi. The A40s were sold to corporates (XP Pro), and the A45's were largely retail models (XP Home). If you can live with XGA resolution, they're still seriously fast machines that's got plenty left in them.