Clear the CMOS to remove the password -
Here's the procedure (citing the relevant pages of the Toshiba maintenance manual):
1. Remove the main battery pack (p. 4-8).
2. Remove the hard drive (p. 4-13). The covers is secured with both screws and plastic "snaps," so you'll need to use something with a thin blade to gently (!) pry it loose with after you remove the screws; I used one of the flathead screwdrivers from my precision screwdriver set.
3. Remove the heat sink and CPU covers (p. 4-16)-just the covers, not the heat sink or CPU themselves. These covers are also secured with both screws and plastic "snaps."
While you're here, this would be a good time to take some compressed air and blow the dust out of the heat sink fins and CPU fan (remember to not overspeed the fan).
4. Remove the optical drive (p. 4-20). I'm not sure that this step is really necessary, as I can't see how the optical drive would affect the shell disassembly, but it's easy to do-if nothing else it removes a lot of weight, and will make the laptop easier to handle later. Since the case holes have no threads, I just threaded these screws into the holes in the optical drive itself in order to keep track of them.
Before reassembly, I gave the full system a thorough blow-out with compressed air; a lot of dust came out through the open optical drive bay, so that may be reason enough to remove it now.
5. Remove the keyboard (p. 4-23). Do also remove the "keyboard hold plate" and "keyboard support plate" and set them aside; note how they are oriented, so that you can put them back in place correctly later. Be gentle when pulling out the keyboard cable from the mainboard connector-I used a side-to-side shimmy motion to ease it out.
6. Remove the wireless LAN
board cover and carefully disconnect the wireless LAN antenna leads (p. 4-28). I used the needle-nose pliers to disconnect the antenna leads from their mounting posts on the wireless LAN board-just pull straight up (gently!). Note that the black antenna lead connects to the post nearest the screen hinge, while the white lead connects to the post nearest the wrist rest. You do not need to remove the wireless LAN board itself, so just skip those steps.
7. Remove the CD/DVD (audio) play button circuit board (p. 4-33). Disconnecting the thin ribbon cable connector looks scary, but it slips right out with a gentle tug.
8. Remove the display assembly (p. 4-34). This is where you'll go bugnuts keeping track of the screws if you're not using my Scotch tape method! Note that by "display assembly," we're talking about the LCD screen assembly and the upper half of the laptop shell.
In addition to the two screws show in figure 4-20 on p. 4-35, there are two other screws that need to be removed that I can't find mentioned anywhere in the manual. These screws are located next to the memory module bay (one "above" and one in the "top right" corner; "up" means toward the screen hinge); both have "B4" marked in plastic next to their holes.
Disconnecting all the (tiny!) cable connectors in step #7 goes easiest with the small needle-nose pliers, grasping the plastic head of each connector and pulling straight back (I suspect that standard size needle-nose pliers will prove to have tips too thick for this delicate work). Whatever you do, resist the temptation to just tug on the wires to disconnect the cables!
The display assembly has plastic "snaps" in addition to screws, so you may need to do a little gentle levering to remove it.
9. Remove and replace the RTC battery (p. 4-43). You'll need to be careful to maneuver the "insulator" tab around the ribbon cable for the LED board, but it's manageable without removing the LED board.
10. Reassemble the laptop in the reverse order of disassembly (hope you know where all the screws are!).
Note on reversing step #7 (CD/DVD play button circuit board):
The connector socket for the ribbon cable is on the bottom of the board, inset from the edge. Consequently, I found that it was easier to reinsert the ribbon cable into the connector socket before putting the circuit board back into place. Also, because this ribbon cable doesn't have a hard plastic plug on the end, I had to gently (!) grip the ribbon cable with needle-nose pliers in order to reinsert it into the connector socket (which is just a thin slot, and somewhat hard to see while positioning the circuit board). Be careful to not put too much pressure on the ribbon cable--it's relatively fragile due to its thinness.
Note on reversing step #6 (wireless LAN antenna):
The antenna leads are on the small side; while easy to position over their sockets on the LAN board, pushing them onto the sockets would be difficult to do with a finger tip. My solution
was to take my needle-nose pliers, close them, then use the closed tip of the pliers to apply moderate pressure to the cable connectors until I felt them snap into place. Note that I did not grip the cable connectors with the pliers--I only used the closed tip of the pliers to apply the necessary pressure.
You should now be able to boot up the laptop (after setting the clock, of course)-unless, like the one I'm working on, there are other problems to fix...