Samsung RF266ABRS Bottom Freezer Refrigerator French Door - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The self defrosting mechanism is fubar. Check out the defrost timer and defrost element for proper operation. Chances are that the element is open.

On mine one end of the spring broke off in the hole on the door. It was on top of the hinge so it looked like a pivot pin. I found that this was the second hole for the spring. I pushed the end of the new spring up under the hinge and popped the broke piece of old spring out. Now I could see the 2 holes. You then need to put the spring into each hole. The hole on the flap also needs a white plastic sleeve if that is missing. that goes on the end of the spring and fits into the flap hole. Then the trick part is understanding how the spring works? If you put both ends of the spring in the holes and shut the flap, it now stays in position to close and be flipped open by the guide that swings it open to seal. Good Luck.

The unit self defrosts and this creates water. There is a drain tube that is supposed to let the water go to the bottom of the outside underneath. If that tube is plugged or damaged the water runs down the inside and creates ice.

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

Guessing ether a fan, damper our defrost issue. Sorry cant be much help.

Hold both Power Freeze buttons for 8-10 seconds. You'll hear a chime when it resets and the correct numbers will show.

Yeah, me too. We have the same problem. Does anyone know how to fix this????

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Check the Control Settings: Ensure that the temperature settings for both the fridge and freezer compartments are appropriately configured. Sometimes incorrect settings can lead to cooling problems. Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it is, disable demo mode by referring to your user manual. Inspect the Door Seals: Damaged or worn-out door seals can cause cold air to leak out, resulting in insufficient cooling in the fridge compartment. Inspect the door seals for any cracks, tears, or gaps. If you find any issues, consider replacing the door seals. Evaporator Coil and Fan Check: The evaporator coils in the fridge play a crucial role in cooling. If they are frozen or malfunctioning, it can affect cooling. Similarly, check if the fan responsible for distributing cold air inside the fridge is working correctly. Reset the Refrigerator: Sometimes a simple reset can resolve cooling issues. Unplug the fridge from the power source for a few minutes, then plug it back in. Observe if there's any improvement in cooling after the reset. Compressor Overheating: You mentioned that the compressor is very hot. An overheated compressor can impact cooling. Allow the compressor to cool down completely before switching the fridge back on.

Check the coolant level and pressure when cooling. You may need to evacuate the system and reload it with the correct anount of gas.

Compressors are noisy due to its job. Check there is no packaging between the motor and any other part as that can increase the noise.

The make appears to be known for beeping. Try a power reset. Pull the wall plug for 5 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RFG297HDRS+cool+select+pantry+keeps+beeping Video

First I would clean all grim. Second if you do not have refrigerant gauges feel discharge line with hand. Will be a smaller line and coverd with foam. It should be hot to condensor. if not You probabaly lost charge. Also top of compressor should be hot. Should the above not meet specs. You need to find leak, get a pro. to locate repair leak, as you need licenese to go further.

Manny MANY unfortunate customers who bought this **** from Samsung have problem.
Specifically the Freezer cold but fridge side no lower than 55deg problem.

It is a known defect that Samsung has not taken ownership of. I have the same problem with the same model as many.. if you search the net. Iv'e been trying to find a designated website for repairs for this problem. Please post website with solution if anyone finds it. Thanks

could be just the coil on the valve, but most more likely valve getting stuck as it opens. somtimes can take apart and clean, will work for awhile, but if have the cash best just swap it out. will save you hassel down the road.My Aplogies I was under the impression you had already located the valve. I as I have not seen unit I can not give the location, However since it is on the water system, I would trace water tubing from where it connects to unit. It should not be far from inlet connection. Look for tubing going to a valve with wires ontop, ensure after the valve is where you whish water/ice to come out. Once that is located take photo and order new valve, or secure water remove and clean valve. Note have container ready as water will leak once you remove valve.

Unplug the fridge, wait 2 minutes and plug back in. If symptoms remain then likely it was damaged. If you don't have a whole house surge suppressor then you need one. Modern appliances are extremely susceptible to voltage spikes.

First: i don't know. In the manual there should be some pages for solving dysfunction and what the lights mean. Always check for damage on the closed and pressurized system, including inside, where the tubular radiators are, mostly half within the panels. Those may have broken when using tools to remove ice or been hit rough with some object. For a right understanding: the fridge must not be shaken or tilted and carried. When this has happened, then the evaporation fluid or refrigerant can be mixed with the oil that resides on the bottom of the compressor. It may only have a small sponge to clear the fluid from a little oil contamination. What finally solves the mixing is shutting the fridge off for 24 hours and when not completely satisfied with the result, immediately for another 24 hours. Another thought is that a fridge may not function at all, in a cold room. Transfer of heat is totally not the same at all temperatures. Many people have been the same disappointed as you, thinking they can find a cold place for the fridge or freezer. So, when this has happened when the room temperature dropped dramatically, get it out of the cold or shut it down because it performs at its maximum capacity. That is where my bet is at. The radiator at the back can also not function right when it is close the wall and/or an object is placed right above it. The heat must be dispersed. Best of luck

temp too warm if temp is ok by checking with thermometer then replace temp sensor

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Please proof read before Posting.. Question moved from Cellphones category. 40,000 to choose from RD is air damper iced up fault. The damper in the freezer spins around to close/open the air from the freezer to the fridge. It ices up from time to time, or the damper motor, or sensor that reads it's position fails. Apr 27, 2010

Hi. My samsung RL39WBMS fridge/freezer shows rd in the ...

If you can spell it, you can Google it! Lots more in the link. 'make model (what it is)' in all questions please. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+refrigerator+RD+code ..

Question edited for clarity and typos. When they regassed it, they didn't check where the leak was. It is still leaking and you have lost gas again. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RS20+fridge+freezer ..