There will be two switches per compartment, one is the fan switch, the other is for the lights... Remove the top compartment vent panel, the switches will be accessed from above... remove the wires and push them down into the fridge... you can test them by setting a meter to "continuity" test and pressing the paddle of the switch to see if it lets current through.
SUB-ZERO machines are more serial number dependent when ordering parts... http://www.midwestdistributing.com/Store/OpenPages/ManualPage.aspx?PageTitle=MANUALS
Thee is a plastic cam at the bottom hinge of the door. Mine cracked and I bought a new one online for like $30 (for a piece of plastic). Got a strong friend to lift the door off the hinges while I replaced it. make sure you get the right one for left or right doors.
7014663 Sub Zero Refrigerator Bottom Cabinet Hinge Cam LH (7014663) (7014663) - Genuine Refrigerator Parts
this subzero had the same error code. when i tested defrost components find out that defrost thermostat is bad, so i replaced it, and it does work just fine now.
This "problem" may not be a problem at all. When you open the door of a cold space you admit warm air. The colder the space is before you open the door the more quickly the warm air you admitted by opening the door shrinks (contracts) as it meets the cold surfaces. This effect causes a short term vacuum in the space. The vacuum prevents the door opening until the internal and external pressures equalize again. This can take several seconds. There is a drain for draining defrost water from the compartment that has a water "trap" in it which is intended to minimize the effect. In some models a gurgling sound can be heard when door is closed as the vacuum tries to **** the water trap back into the compartment.
If you haven't noticed this happening in the past there can be several reasons.
Possibly you just never noticed the effect before.
If your refrigerator has less stored in it than usual the air exchange when you open the door can be larger than normal and the volume of warm air admitted may take longer to "shrink".
The thermostat for the compartment has been turned down without your knowledge or has failed making the compartment colder than usual.Take temperatures. Refrigerators should be 36-42 degrees while freezers should normally be close to zero.
The drain for that compartment is clogged and needs to be cleared. A turkey baster with hot water can usually clear the drain.
Except for a faulty control and the clogged drain the other issues are no "problem" and merely a function of the "tightness" of the insulation of the refrigerator
I have subzero 642 but it should be the same. Remove 2 screws on the top edge of the door. The screws attach a metal track to the top of the door and the track needs to be loosened to allow the front wood panel to slide out. Next on the side edge of the door are 3 metal strips. The middle one is held in place simply by magnets and slots at the top and bottom edges of the door. You can remove the middle strip by lifting it out in the middle with a small screwdriver and pulling it off. This will expose 3 or 4 screws that hold a metal track to the side edge of the door. Remove these screws and the metallic track on the side edge of the door. You can then slide the wood door panel out enough to expose the 2 screws that the door handle attaches to. Good luck!
posible termistor en cortocircuito en el evaporador refrigerador o el cableado del termistor. el corto es m?s que probable que en el conector del termistor. el trabajo debe ser realizado por un profesional capacitado.
Usually the problem is not with the dirty condenser. Most likely there is freon leak at evap coils on fresh food side. You can charge it with freon to proper pressures, but it will leak out; or replacing evaporator - thats most common place where freon leaks out. Here is my video how i do it. Thanks.
most likely there somewhere freon leaks out. Most common place is evaporator in fresh food section. Thats video how to replace it, but i think you will need call service and let them do it. even if your refrigerator newer than this one on the video, its still the same design of fresh food section, so it will look like it. Thanks, I hope it was helpful.
Power present does not mean the switch is ok. Remove the leads from the switch and set your volt ohm meter to resistance. Depress the switch and see if you have a reading on your meter. If the meter reads O.L. while depressed, the switch is bad.
Error code 50 means excessive refrierator section compressor run. Possible causes include: dirty condenser, stopped condenser motor, faulty termistor or an evaporator refrigerant leak. If it is a refrigerant leak it usually shows up as frost or water driplets half way down on the back wall. Clear codes by holding the alarm button in for 15 seconds.
Hi,
This model doesn't have a standard closure system for the doors, It contains a bar and string system under the doors, some parts may not be available currently but parts could be swapped from one side to the other, I have done it and it works. So you will need to inspect all parts to the door including bushing, gaskets and make sure the unit is square to the floor cause this will cause to door to pop open after closing it. Call Subzero for parts directly to fix this issue at 1-800-350-2676. They can and will point you in the correct dealer for you to get the correct parts you seek. Good luck. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249
if there are no additional errors present check the defrost circuit, (wiring,heater, thermistor, defrost thermostat). work should be done by a qualified technician.
