20 Most Recent Sub-Zero 611 / S Questions & Answers

I suggest you unplug the frige and clean the blades of the fan of any dirt. If the fan is mounted with bolts through rubber gromets or washers take a caulk gun with 100% silicone and shoot silicone into these gromets or washers filling any voids between the bolts and rubber. Allow enough time to dry and see if this helps. please rate me

Mark,I've got a 700 Series and have found some of these sites very helpful in running tests and discovering the fault codes.https://www.google.com/search?q=sub-zero+661+enter+diagnostics&newwindow=1&sxsrf=APwXEdc-OOiWdARscxmB36rYFCeB7mc_eQ%3A1683475309954&source=hp&ei=bctXZOLSN_uz0PEPu_aaoAI&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZFfZfYm8SNK-nX24VEwOvWrAcCMus128&oq=Sub-Zero+661+enter+di&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYAjIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyCAghEBYQHhAdOgYIABAWEB46CAgAEBYQHhAPOgUIIRCrAlAAWJ9KYIGLAWgBcAB4AIABvgGIAegMkgEEMC4xMZgBAKABAqABAQ&sclient=gws-wizBest to you.Also one thing too check is the door seal. My 700 compressor was running all the time and it turned out to be a bad door seal. I did however get a EC code so it may not be this in your case.

Question edited for clarity and typo. Undercounter fridges tend to get neglected. Pull it out and clean the condenser fins and any vents back there. If that doesn't fix it, it probably needs a refrigerant gas top up. There is a video that may be of interest. https://www.google.com/search?q=Subzero+249RP ..

Fans working and air flowing thru the cooling coils? The inside fan warms the evaporator, or cooling coil. If this coil does not go thru a defrost cycle or if there is ice build up to the point no air gets across it, that could be the scenario.Then it would need defrosting, or inspection to make sure there is free air flow both inside and outside the fridge, including the defrost timer if present. If all this checks out ok, then the refrigeration circuit is to be looked at by a technician.

hi thanks for the question you do have a no defrost problem The defrost timer is not advancing to the defrost cycle The timer is located on the top where the compressor is located do ypu have an owners manual if you do you should have a bresk down of that fridge So replace the timer thanks The appliance doc

check and inspect gasket seal or door not closing tight

Most valves are the same.. icemaker fill valves

Fridge and freezer cabinets aren't anywhere near as rigid as they look - it is important they stand on firm level ground and using a spirit level and any adjustable feet the cabinet should stand level and four-square. This is good for the compressor too. Once level and square the door will remain in whatever position it is placed. There isn't usually much or any adjustment available at the door hinges but if there is the door should be adjusted for the best fit and the magnetic door seal should close to the metal of the cabinet and create an almost airtight seal. If after this process the door doesn't fit and an almost even gap between the door and cabinet isn't achievable, the door might be warped - the door also isn't rigid; very flimsy and flexible without the plastic liner and so any warp in the door is likely to be caused by a badly fitted liner or a poor quality liner...

Suggest first add up the costs to fix everything needed on your unit verses its age. My guess would be more cost effective to buy a new fridge.

I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example. The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine. Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan. A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things. I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Hi fridges will warm up on the outside as they remove heat from the inside. excessive heat with not extreme cooling inside the fridge indicates a possible degridation of coolant fluid or a leak. as the motor tries to cool the fridge the thermostat inside stays on as the tempreture inside has not been reached. if you hear the motor/ pump continually running this will indicate a cooling problem.

It is possible to replace the connector but might be hard to find the exact match. Maybe consider going to Fry's or a local electronic hobby store and replace both sides of the connector. You might even be able to find one that does a better job at moisture sealing...maybe an auto parts store that has replacement connectors for the engine compartment.

When you open the door, you will see screws holding the handle in place. It would be best to have an extra set of hands to support the handle as you remove the screws. Once all the screws are out then the handle will come off and the panel will slide out. Sometimes you will need to remove the top trim as well.

How soon did you start it up after you moved it & put it in its place?
If you plugged it in to soon after moving. Oil may have still been up in the wrong place of the compressor. Unplug it for about an hour. Then plug it back in. By plugging it in to early after moving you could have burnt up the compressor. This happens often.