20 Most Recent Sub-Zero 30.1 cu. ft. Cabinet Depth Side-by-Side Refrigerator 632 / F Questions & Answers

evaporator leaks freon, made a video on how to replace it

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Jun 27, 2015

replacing leaking evaporator on Sub Zero R134A

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Jun 27, 2015

Go here and click on "owners", then "condensor cleaning and care". It will give you a video of how to clean your condensor. http://www.subzero.com/BuiltInRefrigeration/632Refrigerator Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Dec 09, 2010

Have a small water leak up top on left hand side and looks like it could be a small plastic hose?

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Sep 09, 2010

we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.

this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Sep 08, 2010

whe n you left the door open the fridge have a sensor. and turn the LIGHTS OFF. close the fridge let it cool again.

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Apr 02, 2010

We are factory authorized Sub Zero parts and service. Please contact us at:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service from 7 Am until 9 PM CST for all your Sub Zero parts and supplies.
We look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Ella

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Nov 13, 2009

There is no reset. There is an on/off but it doesn't trip. You should check the breakers at the breaker box and then call for service if the one for the refr isn't tripped

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Aug 05, 2009

Replace the dual water inlet valve . The piece the line from the wall connects to .

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Jul 25, 2009

i think that you need a licenced refrigeration person to charge your system.

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Jul 19, 2009

Sounds like the water inlet valve to icemaker is leaking - not closing completely after filling the tray. Rare, but possible. Prove it by shutting off icemaker arm or switch. If that is the cause, the drip will continue.
If dripping stops when I/M is off, then it is ice blockage in I/M fill tube and or diverter funnel at end of ice tray. Remove I/M, clean ice from both, and re-assemble.
Replacing that valve (water supply to refrig connects to it in the back) should solve it.

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Jun 13, 2009

You are going to have to replace the dispensor module. Go to http://www.subzero.com/locator/locator.aspx?type=0&zip= for your local parts distributor or service agent. The factory number is 800-222-7820 and they are very helpful.

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Dec 31, 2008

I would Google that question. Type in "cu. ft. to litters" or " convert cubic feet to litters"

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Dec 02, 2008

more likely a bad compressor, which is more sensitive to temperature extremes...may be cheaper to replace the frig.

Sub-Zero 30.1... | Answered on Jun 04, 2008

Fridge and freezer cabinets aren't anywhere near as rigid as they look - it is important they stand on firm level ground and using a spirit level and any adjustable feet the cabinet should stand level and four-square. This is good for the compressor too.
Once level and square the door will remain in whatever position it is placed.

There isn't usually much or any adjustment available at the door hinges but if there is the door should be adjusted for the best fit and the magnetic door seal should close to the metal of the cabinet and create an almost airtight seal.

If after this process the door doesn't fit and an almost even gap between the door and cabinet isn't achievable, the door might be warped - the door also isn't rigid; very flimsy and flexible without the plastic liner and so any warp in the door is likely to be caused by a badly fitted liner or a poor quality liner...

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Nov 04, 2019

I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example.

The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine.
Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan.

A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things.

I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.

Sub-Zero... | Answered on Sep 22, 2019

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


Sub-Zero... | Answered on Sep 09, 2019

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