20 Most Recent Sub-Zero 601R Questions & Answers


I've cleaned out refrigerators at work (we had a lot) and found the main problem was dust and hot food placed in fridge. Kitchens with daily cooking and no stove vents (or clogged vents) will also begin to coat the tubing in drain lines. It's also a sign that the defrost cycle stopped or is also clogged with dust which prevents the unit from cooling properly and defrosting properly. I suggest you call your vendor for service. Please note that many refrigerators have very long warranty period even if the warehouse outlet you bought if from is gone or won't help. Check directly with the MFR for assistance. Many times I've taken repair action only to find that I need a part and the service parts store charges me for a part that would have been free if I called for service. This happens when you 'Think' it's too old.
* As far as your current situation goes. The drain line is already clogged and needs to be physically cleared. You will need a qualified technician to clear it.
*** The following is for information only***
* I've had luck clearing a semi clogged line by blowing compressed air down (or up from the drain pan).
* If the line is large enough then a small diameter plastic tube (NOT wire!) pushed down the line may help but caution must be used as you may end up with a tighter plug that's harder to remove. I usually reserve this method for slow draining tubes that can't clear using an algaecide in the drain line.
* There are appliance supply stores that carry algaecide for use in "defrost" drain lines. These are usually used at commercial refrigerated warehouses. You may find smaller bottles at other outlets, maybe a Sear's or Wal-mart. Follow the instructions on the bottle for your size of refrigerator. You should check your refrigerator's manual for the recommended product to use.
* Final; To answer your question. I've found to sterilize water (from the river, pond, etc.) If it's pre-filtered then 3 drops will suffice. But I've heard 6 to 10 drops if it's really bad. Since your not drinking this stuff then popping a small cap full (your bleach bottle) will work nicely. 1-2 drops of detergent will loosen things up a bit to. I've used this methods on sump collection systems to prevent "Jellyfish-crud" from clogging up the pumps. This is a yeast that grows well in cold water. Normally the heater in the fan/coils get the water warm enough to flush all this stuff down. But if there is a problem with the system then the drain lines beging to clog up. That is why you should have the refrigerator checked out. Quite sure there is another problem causing your line to clog up.
* Remember this treatment is only to prevent the line from clogging up. You will probably have to perform this at least 3-4 months if not more often. Suggest vacuum cleaning the back or lower grill area to remove the dust (Hair balls if you have pets.) Perform the recommended annual cleaning mentioned in your manual.
Aloha, ukeboy57
PS; don't go overboard on the bleach as it does eat up some metals like aluminium. Check the lower drip tray and dump out any liquids. It's under the refrigerator, behind the grill.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Feb 13, 2018


Def. needs freon if condenser coil is clean.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Oct 05, 2017


1. Not cold enough
2. Door seal is demagnetized or broken, check bottom portion if it's ripped.
3. Door itself unleveled and need adjustment
4. Door (mostly bottom one) hinge need repair
door-not-sealing-refrigerator-pz5vwj3ltfrcjisuy0az3fsc-4-0.jpg

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Aug 19, 2016


If all the lights are out, check the bulbs. They sometimes get build up on them and need to be wiggled to make better contact. a 1/8 turn will sometimes do the trick. If there is no light, the panel will not illuminate. It is back lit with the 4 bulbs under the plastic top panel. No light, no panel light. Compressor has a 4 minute delay. It is possible that a switches are bad at the bottom of door. Do a check with a multi-meter, one switch is always on, the other is always off, if you push it and the status changes, the switch is good.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Feb 07, 2016


wow never heard of a vacuum sealing door on a fridge. all I ever knew of are magnetic ones and I find no mention of this feature searching .

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Aug 14, 2015


if u unplug it for 5 min(or find a breaker at the breaker panel), it should reset controls.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Jun 13, 2015


My Sub is a 650S. Not sure your handle assy. is the same or not. But each of the 2 attachment points have a small 3/32" set screw on the bottom of each short piece between the vertical handle and the door. These set screws grab onto posts that are screwed into the door. There can be 3 points where the handle can work loose.
1. The set screw(s) have backed out and not holding tightly onto the door studs. 2. The studs in the door are loose and need to be tightened with a screw driver. 3. After loosening the handle via the set screws, when you look back into the cavity vacated by the studs from the door, (pivot handle clockwise past edge of door) you will see a Philips-head screw that secures the spacer to the handle. If the spacer is loose, tighten it with screw driver. Then mount back into door stud and tighten set screw. Problem Solved. Have a beer!!!

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Mar 21, 2015


1) Make certain there is power to the unit, 2) Check the power switch in the unit area (a rocker switch), 3) If there is still absolutely no power (no lights, no clicks, no hum, dead) then check the power to the controller located in the top of the refrigerator section. The controller operates all the components, so if it has power but there is no outputs (ie. nothing works) then it is the problem. This is unusual so check items 1 & 2 first. A worst case scenario may require pulling the unit forward to access the house wall receptacle.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Feb 26, 2015


Check if Your fridge has ice or moisture on the back wall, behind that drawer, and if service light or vacuum condenser lights are on, if so : you will need to go thru this repair I show on my youtube chanel. Hope It helps. How To Replace Sub Zero Evaporator HD 1080

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Jan 05, 2015


thats right, if compressor running you most likely have to go thru this repair.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Oct 16, 2014

601R Manual

Sub-Zero 601R | Uploaded on Oct 14, 2014

601R Manual

Sub-Zero 601R | Uploaded on Oct 14, 2014

601R Manual

Sub-Zero 601R | Uploaded on Oct 14, 2014


remove all the drawers and unscrew the frame that holds the drawers. Free the the drain tube (need to unscrew the clamps that hold the tube to the back wall). Pull it up from the bottom hole where it drains into the pan and free it from the top drain pan. Most likely it's plugged with **** and fungus and yecchy stuff. Clean it out and reinstall it.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Aug 07, 2014


Hi,

Check the light switch by wiggling it side to side, if the light comes on replace the switch, if not check the bulbs also. It rare to have issues with both. Has this been serviced recently? Check the bulbs to assure they are snug in the sockets also.

Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Aug 02, 2014


Your thermostat, or compressor (motor) is defect. Or the cooling fluid has leaked away. (used to be freon)
To be sure let a technician have a look.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Jul 21, 2014


I assume your unit is cooling correctly since the following explanation is predicated on a properly working refrigerator.

There is no "suction seal" that comes on with your refrigerator, rather this the effect from the closing of the door and the rapid cooling of the warmer air (that entered with the door open) which causes a contraction that is the vacuum you feel. This will only last for a short time as the built-in venting (usually via the drain) will allow the low pressure to balance so the door opens normally. If this has ceased to occur it indicates there is an air leak somewhere which prevents the vacuum from forming. Replacing door gaskets can be tricky so be certain the door closes and seals all the way around. Using a dollar bill (or similar slip of paper), insert the bill between the door and cabinet, close the door on it and then gently pull the bill out. You should feel a slight resistance and have to tug to slide the bill out. Repeat this every few inches all the way around the door to locate any spots where the contact is not as firm. Typically this can happen on the hinge side, especially near the corners.

You might have a hinge problem, a warped door or some other problem that keeps the door from closing fully.

Sub-Zero 601R | Answered on Jun 28, 2014

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