HI,
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
- Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
- Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The
compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's
on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it
is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still
not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of
several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified
appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
- The compressor
- The Thermostat
- The overload, relay, or capacitor
- The defrost timer
- The condenser fan motor
Cooling is poor
For
an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about
refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A
refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a
problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coilsCondenserPoor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside
of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of
the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator
is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour
period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails,
the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much
frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't
draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling
because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling
in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an
inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is
with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from
the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have
several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip
pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually."
When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the
thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools
properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the
self-defrosting system:
- The defrost timer
- The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
- The defrost heater
If
it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the
refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting
refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under
the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get
coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly.
The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device
behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator
from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the
Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the
coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of
the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the
remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
