CD player issues
Burned Cd's do play in these, I use them all the time when I test the one's I repair.
Yes, it is the "SCR" button you press, it stands for "source".
Since it is in your boat, it could have a small amount of water damage in it. I have seen some strange problems with car stereos put in boats.
The problem you are describing is nothing that any normal end user can fix, meaning that there is no reset that will help or anything of that nature.
If you are good at taking things apart and putting them back together and able to pay close attention to detail, you may be able to fix this yourself if the problem is not too extensive.
If it has a small amount of water damage, you could clean the main board and see if that helps.
First you take the top off, it has 1 screw on the top right in the back middle of the stereo. Take it out and then take the top off carefully so you don't bend it up removing it. You need to gently pry the sides up near the back first, then a little closer to the front as well. After the top comes off, the CD mech has only 2 screws holding it in, they are at the front of the mech at the bottom and connect into a brass post. Take them out and the mech will come out very easy, but be carefull not to damage the ribbon cable holding it in. That ribbon cable can be taken out right at the main board where it is connected. Just pull it out of the connecter, nothing special holding it in, just a tight fit.
Now you can see the main board. First remove the plastic part that holds the display, it has connectors that just need to be lifted a little to pull it off.
This may be all that needs to come off, but taking the board out all the way may be whats needed, so go ahead and remove the screw that holds the board onto the chassis. Might be just 1, maybe two. Look in the middle front of the baord for a screw and the back area also. You can always look at the bottom of the chassis to see where there are screws coming thru and remove those. Now on the sides of the chassis are screws on each side near the back to remove. After you get those, it should just pull out with the heat sink attached. Just make sure you don't force anything out, it could break the board if you missed anything. I am pretty sure that is all, but I am going off of memory and might have forgot something.
Once the board is out look it over very closely for any type of green or greyish type of corrosion. Check the pins of the IC's with a magnifier if need be. Any tiny little spot of corrosion can cause problems, even if it is not on a component.
The solder should be shiny and silver, no rings or cracks. If any of them are grainy looking they may be bad also and would need to be reflowed with a soldering iron and a touch of fresh solder.
Any of the corrosion you may find can be cleaned with an old toothbrush and some alcohol. We use flux remover in our shop, but it's unlikely you have any of that. After cleaning it off with alcohol it will leave a residue that does not look good, but don't worry about that. It won't do any harm. Just make sure all of the corrosion has been removed. Look at every little area of the board on both sides.
Once it is done, just put it all back together just the way it was taken apart. Don't forget any screws and make sure they are on tight but not so tight it may break the screw. Just good and firm.
After doing this, if it still does not work, you will need to take it in for service or just buy a new one, these models are just a little over $100 and the repair will run close to that much or more.
I hope you found this useful, if so a FixYa rating would be appreciated.
Thanks and good luck,
on Jul 03, 2008