20 Most Recent Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12 Speaker Questions & Answers


Hey! So i fixed my problem! This is for the BassCube 10
Like i said before i saw that the circut board was burnt near the diodes ZD3 & ZD4, and the resistor R63. Thanks to Deadly1 and BillRad62, i figured it out. The R63 is a 1200 resistor, and the diodes are 15v zeners. I went with 3x 5.1v zeners to replace ZD3, unfortunately Rip-Off-Shack (Radioshack) didnt have 3 packs of these so for the ZD4 i put a 12v and 5.1v. Which exceeds 15, but seems to work without a problem. Hope it helps!

Cambridge... • Answered on Dec 11, 2016


Actually I"m having the same problem. It is most probably the capacitors on the power supply internally. they are known to dry out and go back. cheap easy fix by a competent electronics repair facility. Also Cambridge will fix it for $75 plus shipping

Cambridge... • Answered on Mar 05, 2015


The zener diodes are 1N4774, I believe they are one watt. Try 3 watt metal oxide for the resistors. You might as well replace the 6800uF 63 volt main filter capacitors and the 220uF 50 volt capacitors while you're at it. Half the time the heat that cooked your other parts takes them out as well.

Cambridge... • Answered on Jan 24, 2013


Hi Ok thanks. I cannot be 100 % sure about this without seeing it but it sounds alot like there is a power supply issue, either bridge rec or caps. Caps are very often very obvious. If you get into it and have a look at what is normally the 2 or 4 biggest capacitors at the start/power supply of the board and see if they are ok visibily. If they are bulged, (often they actually explode and leave paper residue) then those are what need to be replaced. Have a look and see.

If its the bridge rec, it could be 4 diodes, fairly large next to each other or a square component with 4 legs out. Need a meter to test, but i would start at caps first
All the best

Cambridge... • Answered on Jan 24, 2013


Hey ark did you have any luck with this?

Cambridge... • Answered on Sep 25, 2012


Some componet in the Amp circuit is breaking down. The longer you let this go, the more of a chance that you will have a major short and blow out several parts,m as thats what happens with amps. Get it service asap and dont use it.

Cambridge... • Answered on Sep 25, 2012


There is a guy on ebay (edwards electronics) that can repair this amp for around 150.00

Cambridge... • Answered on Sep 25, 2012


Hello,the unit has a shorted power supply or amplifier.Until the internal short is repaired it will continue to blow fuses.

Cambridge... • Answered on Jan 24, 2012


Hi, The Ground Rules Of all the annoyances that can afflict any audio/video home theater or even a simple stereo installation, the notorious "ground loop" may well be the most difficult and persistent one to track down and eliminate. A "ground loop" is caused by the difference in electrical potential at different grounding points in an audio/video system. (All the grounds in an A/V system should ideally be at "0" potential.) A ground loop typically adds a loud low-frequency hum or buzz as soon as you plug in any of various audio or video components, including subwoofers, cable-TV outboard boxes, satellite-TV feeds, TV displays, amplifiers, A/V receivers or turntables. The buzz/hum is a byproduct of the multiple power supply cables and a ground voltage differential within your system and its network of interconnecting cables.

Here are some methods to help you get rid of ground loops. Try these first and don't waste money on a power "conditioner" which, in most cases, won't help. (There is no need to "condition" the AC power for your system. Your receiver or amplifier already has a power supply with its own filters and transformers. No further filtering is normally required.)

If you get your system up and running and hear an audible buzz or hum, the first culprit to look at is either the powered subwoofer or your cable-TV or satellite-box feed at the entry point to your system.

First, the subwoofer: unplug the coaxial cable that connects to your powered subwoofer to see if the ground-loop hum disappears. If it does, it's likely coming in through your cable/satellite TV feed.

Reconnect your subwoofer's coaxial cable from the subwoofer input to your receiver's subwoofer output and disconnect the cable-TV feed (or satellite feed) from your outboard set-top cable box or satellite tuner. Be sure and disconnect the cable before any splitters. Now see if the hum/buzz from your subwoofer stops.

If that eliminates the hum, you can install one of these inexpensive in-line ground isolators from Parts Express or Bass Home. Note that these transformer-based ground isolators will work fine with analog cable-TV feeds, but depending on their design they may interfere with or block reception of HDTV signals via a digital cable or satellite dish feed.

Install the ground isolator between the cable-TV feed and the input of your outboard cable-TV box or satellite tuner (or the TV display's antenna or cable input if you have a set with a built-in TV tuner or a cable-card ready set). In many cases, the ground isolator will "break" the loop and remove the annoying hum or buzz by isolating the TV-cable ground.

If a hum remains with the TV cable completely disconnected from your system, or you don't want to risk degrading reception of HD signals from a cable or satellite system, then you may have to add a ground isolator like this Radio Shack Model 270-054 between the line-level coaxial subwoofer cable from your A/V receiver and the line-level input jack on your powered subwoofer.

In all cases, if your subwoofer has a ground-lift screw like some of Axiom's subwoofers, try first removing the screw (or replacing it) to see if it increases or eliminates the hum. It may or may not make a difference.

If you do not have easy access to the aforementioned ground isolators, here are a few more tips:

Try plugging the subwoofer into a different AC outlet in the room, one that isn't supplying power to your components (A/V receiver, TV, cable box, etc.). That might fix it.

Try reversing the AC plug for your A/V receiver or the powered subwoofer. If it's a 3-wire plug or a polarized plug, which has one prong wider than the other, you won't be able to reverse the plug. For safety, do not use a "cheater plug" to bypass the 3-wire plug.

With the power OFF, reverse the AC plugs one by one of any other components that have a standard 2-prong AC plug that isn't polarized. Each time you reverse a plug, turn on the system with the attached component and your subwoofer and see if the hum disappears. In some cases, reversing one or more plugs will eliminate the hum.

If you have a turntable, try connecting a separate ground wire to a chassis screw on your preamp or receiver and see if the hum disappears. If you already have a turntable ground wire, try removing it from the preamp. One or the other may eliminate the hum.

Finally, here is another solution that worked well for a member of our message boards who decided to discard his ground-loop isolator on his subwoofer: "I took off the ground-loop isolator I'd been using and connected a plain 14-gauge wire to chassis screws on the sub and the receiver then powered everything on. Although hum was still there, it was far lower than before. Next I unscrewed the ground-loop screw on the back of the sub and that took care of the hum completely."

Almost certainly sounds like an earth loop to me, but can be caused by a poorly made transformer or phase shifts on the mains supply. Visit some power conditioner web-sites like Isotek or Isol-8 (or google "earth loop") where there's plenty of advice on how to reduce/eliminate earth loops and other causes of mains-induced hum (transformer problems etc).

Hum on the speakers usually indicates that there is a DC voltage on the speaker line. DC voltage on the output lines would be caused by a shorted output transistor.


Have a nice day...

Cambridge... • Answered on Feb 16, 2011


this may be result of blown capacitor - have it analyzed by applying strong magnet over the inside speaker , if humming persists, then its not blown capacitor -- the capacitor stores energy, and if that energy is lossed an out in the airwaves, thats the humming effect

Cambridge... • Answered on Oct 15, 2010


This looks like one for the dealer to service!!!

Cambridge... • Answered on Apr 20, 2010


the correct size fuse is based on amps, not volts. The correct fuse rating should also be displayed on the chassis of your sub, if in doubt take the original one to an electrical shop and let them identify it for you.

Cambridge... • Answered on Mar 23, 2010


same here. happened after moving residences

Cambridge... • Answered on Mar 23, 2010

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