20 Most Recent True GDM-26 Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Learn to for complete sentences that relate a complete interogative.

the temperature control you need is a part# 800386. the one you got(800393) is a temperature control for a 230 volt cooler not 115 volt. it is a 230 volt control

Hi,
The way you described the problem, I would be looking for a refrigerant leak... I think that it was low on charge and now it is so low that it will not cool at all...

Have a tech. find/fix the leak and recharge the unit...

heatman101

Here is the link for the PDF version of the manual:http://www.truemfg.com/pdf/InstallManuals/GDM/gdm_english.pdf
Temperature control is on page 13.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for choosing Fixya, RJ

You need to remove the housing several screws to acces

sounds like the compressor is not running. The condenser fans are located at the compressor. The fans in the conditioned space are the evap fans. A refrig usually does not have any device controlling the evap fans, they are to run 24/7. Freezers have other controls. Start there and let me know if I can help further.

depends in which country you are??? you could replace the seal your self for about 20-30$ in Canada/USA, does it make a suspect sound?? it could be the compressor not working properly, a new fridge goes for about 200$ & + where i live...

Good luck!

Hi,
If the compressor and fan together come on when you bypass the internal plug then, no power is going to the plug. I cannot find a manual for this fridge, but I will tell you what to look for in order to repair it.
I believe that the thermostat which controls the internal temperature is not working. This part controls the operation of the compressor and fan. Check the following things. Some of this may seem silly, but if you had called me out on a service all, I would be checking these things.
I would get a multimeter from Radio Shack, or Wal-mart Usually less than $20.00. Harbor Freight has excellent units for less than $10.00.
Follow this procedure:
1 Check to see that the unit is turned on. (Normally the thermostat also has the "off" switch built in to it.)
2 Unplug the entire unit from the wall.
3 Locate the thermostat control. Turn the control on (DON'T PLUG THE FRIDGE IN). Open up the compartment that covers the thermostat's wiring.
4 The thermostat will have two prongs sticking out of it with two wires attached to it. Remove the wires.
5 Turn the multimeter to the setting of RX1 or 200 Ohms (a unit of electrical resistance). Connect the red test lead of the meter to "V" and "mA" and the black test lead to "COM" Then turn the meter on. Touch the two test leads together. The number displayed on the meter face should go very close to zero. Like 0.2 or something like that or all the way to zero.(0.0) That means the meter is ready to use for testing the power function inside the thermostat and the fridge.
6 Take the two test leads to the meter and touch the two prongs of the thermostat. If the display goes close to zero, the thermostat is good. If the meter does not display anything or signifies out of range. Then the thermostat must be replaced.
7 Call a Refrigeration supply house and locate a thermostat. In refrigerator terminology it is called a "Cold Control" If you ask for that, they will know exactly what you are talking about.
If it is not the thermostat, Reassemble the thermostat/cold control completely.
Check for a defrost timer. This is a device that would probably be on the back of the fridge(but could be next to the cold control inside, or in another spot) with a VERY small knob on it or a slot to insert a screwdriver into.
When you find it follow this procedure:
1 Plug the compressor/fan assembly into the dead outlet inside the fridge cabinet.
2 Turn the cold control to it's highest number (coldest) setting
3 Rotate the knob or screw slot of the defrost timer slowly. The fridge may come one.
If the compressor comes on, you need a new defrost timer.
I hope this helps you.
Best Regards,
Mark

www.truemfg.com

NONE. This is a common complaint from customers who buy commercial units for use in residential atmosphere or quiet stores. These units are made for noisy commercial kitchens, convienience stores, etc.

If it was off over night the fan comes on you should feel air coming from the inside vent the condensor fan may be bad or the blade is loose
If you feel air then it freezes it's a Classic example of low freon gas.

I would say it has to be a bad thermostat. Generally I set these on 5 and they work fine. If it were a refrigerant problem the coil might freeze up but the drinks would not. Changing them can be a DIY project if you can get the thermostat.

Not fun the first time. Unplug the unit. There will be a plate with two screws that the thermostat is mounted to either on the right side or right front of the coil cover. Remove the two screws and pull the plate and thermostat down in one piece. Unplug the two wires from the stat and remove the plate from the stat making sure to note which way the plate and thermostat are oriented. The thin capillary from the stat runs up to the back of the coil. You have to reach your hand into the opening created by removing the plate and feel your way to the capillary entrance at the coil. You may be able to just see it through the hole. Make a good mental note of its position in there and pull the old capillary out. Measure how deep the capillary was in there and try to get that far in with the new one. I generally put a little piece of tape on the new capillary about where I want it to stop at the coil. You just want to make sure the capillary is clear of any wires and doesn't rub against anything in its routing. Reinstall is reverse of uninstall.

The problem you are facing usually occurs after the refridgerator has been moved around and put on immediately after it was moved or when the compressor is short on gas.
If either of the two suggestions above is not the case then check the voltage which is being supplied by your electricity company if it is upto 220 or 110 depending on your country if it is below that then make a formal complaint to your electricity company and purchase a voltage regulator for the device. You can get some at any electronic store for about $25 to $50 depends on the size you want.
Hope this solution has been helpful?