20 Most Recent Craftsman 1 hp Air Compressor, 4 gal. - 16638 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

https://manualzz.com/doc/50653102/craftsman-15362-owners-manual

I have 351.181720 and the driver does not return. I've had this for years but it has not seen extremely hard use (probably less than 500 brads). Suggestions. [email protected]

Either the compressor or the motor is defective.

Either the unloader valve on the pressure switch is bad or the extension cord is too long or the start capacitor is weak. When the tank is full, unplug and try to turn by hand a few turns. Air should come out the unloader valve drain fitting.

replace the faulty poppet valves in the compressor heads

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruutq28mOss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tbJ6Xo26v8

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It should be pretty straightforward. What are you looking for ?

Check the check valve, disconnect the tube between the pump and the tank and power it up and see if it still humms.

Sounds like you need a higher current circuit. When a motor starts up, there is a higher than normal current draw, usually 2x to 4x the running current. When it starts up against cut in pressure, there is even more resistance and hence more current draw than when starting up against no pressure in the tank. So, your circuit is capable of providing startup current with no presure, but with pressure it is drawing more current and tripping the beaker. Don't just put a higher rated circuit hreaker in unless you want to buern down your house. Get an electrician to measure the starting current of your compressor and wire up a circuit and outlet that will handle that current safely. That said, the advertising for the compressor says it can run on a standard (15 amp) household circuit, so your motor may be drawing excessive current. Either way, an electrician can help you. Another option is to add capacitive start to the compressor, but, again, a good electrician will have the solution.

If the compressor motor is dual voltage then yes, otherwise no.
Notice the current draw is twice at low voltage than that of high voltage in a dual voltage motor.

Pneumatic tools are rated in cfm (cubic feet per minute). Your 1 HP air compressor is rated at probably not more than 3 cfm while the 1/2 " impact driver needs at least 8 cfm, maybe 12 chm of air.
The compressor must provide more chm than tool rating needs.
It is a problem, by the time you look at five horse power air compressors and larger, a lot of electric power is needed. A circuit of 220 volts, 20, 30, or more amps would be required to run those large expensive compressors.
If you can, return the air tool and get a good electric tool instead.
Leave those high air volume air tools to shops that are so equipped to use, or invest if you must.

not completely familiar with that exact model but on other ones if there is a jam it wont fire or was jammed and not reset, meaning the driver( what drives the nail) has to be in the up most position. so use a long thin rod and push it back to the top and check that the magazine has nails or that the feed is good. if want to try with no nails you have to leave the magazine open. but should work with charged battery and make sure any adjustment switches are on or off cant be in a middle position. but know from the dewalt framer cordless the driver has to be up before it will fire.

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Mine did that and i shot a bit of WD40 on all the moving parts. It works now. I think it was stored in a damp air place and corrosion set in.

This compressor has a 33 gallon tank and a 3 to 5 hp (rated)motor. Sears , however, rates their motor power rather differently. I would guess that the actual hp is more like one to one and a half horsepower, going by the amp draw. Usually, a 3 to 5 hp range compressor will only run on 220v and this unit is 110v.

depends where it is If it is from the bottom it may be a rusted out tank ( don't fix) if it from around the weld for the boss ( rusted out -don't fix if it is around a plug thread just reseal remember that compressor tanks contain oil and water and welding before completely evacuating with nitrogen gas will cause an explosion

sears .com ---

I've been working on air compressors for a while now and so far haven't found any that give a specific amount of oil to put in the air pump crank case. They all have one of two methods to get the oil to the proper level. First, and my favorite, is a sight glass at the bottom of the crank case. About the size of a quarter, it lets you see how much oil is in the pump as you add it. Usually they have a red center dot which is where you want the oil level. A little over or under is OK but the sight glass should not be completely full or completely empty, both are hard on the pump and drive motor. Another method is a dip stick usually on the end of the fill hole cap. Only bad thing about these is you have to put in some oil, check the oil level with the dip stick, then add more oil and check it with the dip stick until you get to the full mark. Again, not over and only a little under is where you want the oil level.

if it no on the motor ,it will not have one