High pitched whine
> Fixable by a non-techie like me who would be shocked by touching the wrong thing?
Maybe.
The nature of the problem speaks to me and I suspect the failing (= not-yet-dead) component is an electrolytic capacitor in either the main power supply (if it is a 'switcher') or the high voltage/horizontal sweep circuit.
If there is no disturbance in the display stability, the problem part is probably located in the main power supply that is responsible for producing a variety of voltages excepting the HV for the picture tube and even that does get its supply voltage from the main supply.
If you are the adventurous type, buy a can (two may be better since you don't have a clue as to where to start) of 'freeze spray' from any local electronics source, pull the AC plug, remove the rear housing; hopefully the power cord isn't attached to this but to the chassis itself.
If it is, you may have to buy a 'cheater cord' (cheap) or remove the AC cord from the housing and plug back in.
However, before sticking AC back into the set, do a close visual inspection of the cylinders described below. If any have an obvious dome, of discolored plastic sleeves, they are likely bad.
NOTE: THERE ARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES WHICH MAY BE PRESENT ON METALLIC COMPONENTS!
Old timers were taught to keep one hand in your pocket to prevent causing lethal currents from flowing through your heart.
The picture tube itself has upwards of 25,000 volts which can kick like mule but are survivable (yeah, been there) as long as no currents can flow though the pump.
Look for an area close to where the AC cord enters with larger components visible; cylindrical 'cans' (capacitors) and block- shaped things up to a couple of inches across.
In that general area, there will be these cylinders in all sizes from 1/4" to 1 1/4" diameter and many different heights of 1/2" to 2+".
These are the parts I suspect.
If the set operates properly after having been on for the typical time you have experienced and just won't squeal, you can do one of two things safely:
- Put a VERY DRY towel over the circuit board
- Use a hair dryer to blow warm air into the circuit - from a distance please!
One of these should cause the squeal to start.
Once it has, start spraying individual capacitors and allow 5 seconds for the little ones to react and (using a longer shot of spray) 15-20 seconds for the fat ones.
Don't contact any of the moisture that will form- even condensed water will zap you because of contaminants in the collected dust on parts.
If you get a reaction, don't start cheering until you have managed to repeat the cycle (cold-warm-cold) until you are sure you have the right culprit.
If you are lucky and locate one that you can **** around like a small dog, it will have numbers and letters you need to have, for example:
47uF 100V (may also have a tolerance +50 -10) and a temperature 85C or 105C.
If you have or know an electronics buff who has a soldering iron (stations are better), the best would be to remove the defective part and take it with you on your treasure hunt; this will preclude getting some numbers mixed up.
If it is the kind of capacitor I suspect, it will, with 98% certainty have polarity (+ - ) symbols on the heat shrink sleeve; it is VERY important to install the new one exactly like the old one was oriented.
These s-ckers will pop like a pretty good firecracker if wrongly installed.
If you decide to leave this all to someone else (chicken!), look for a retired TV repairman (person) to do this because, if you do some research here at FixYa, you will soon learn that your wonderful, new flat panel LCD/Plasma/projection TV is not likely to live as long as this Sony has and even when you buy a wall full of screen, put the Sony in a nice dry place long with the DTV converter so when the wall full doesn't light off, you can at least watch Oprah while the 'new' one is repaired, hopefully under warranty .
