20 Most Recent Olympus Camedia C-2100 Ultra Zoom Digital Camera - Page 2 Questions & Answers

If you don't need a zoom, the best film P & S that you can get for what you described is an Olympus! It is the Olympus Stylus Epic which has a very sharp 35 mm f2.8 lens. The f2.8 lens with an ISO 800 or the new ISO 1600 film should fit your bill for low light, fast shutter speed photography. B & H has it for $80. Popular Photography magazine once called it the biggest bargain of all times for no-flash photography.

Of course there are some who claim that trigger voltage is unimportant. I tend to believe them ,as there is no documented evidence from anyone that their camera has been harmed by using non proprietary flashes. Some posters are using older flashes with success and no harmful results. Do you have the nerve to try it? if so let us know.

Yes they do make a lot of difference. Try using your digital zoom a bit - it's like that only without the image degradation (at least for a good lens). Use the search function on the forum. You'll find tons of information and examples. If by some chance you find a b300 for sale don't spend a lot of time deciding to by it - just get it.

I think a lot of things depend here. - how many pictures do you like to take on your trips - what quality you like to shoot at. Here are the various number of pictures as described in the manual at 1600x1200. Again this may vary depending on the complexity (colors) in your picture. Setting 8MB 32MB 64MB HQ 16 64 128 SHQ 5 22 45 I have found HQ to be very acceptable in terms of trading number of photos for compression. I find the 8x10 output from them to be very good, but then again I am critical yet not overly critical. If you are thinking that you shoot more, then carry a laptop of have access to one on your trips. Or then again, you can shoot at lower res. i.e. 1280x960 or 1024x768.

Switch on camera into Shutter mode. Put lenscap over lens or block it so you get a black LCD. Have a look at that first. Only a general indication but if there ARE any bad pixels on the LCD they will be visible as coloured dots. Not too important as THAT doesn't affect the pic but personally I would not put up with it - took one back for exchange for that reason .. who wants to look at spots. The CCD is the real one to look for. With lens still blanked off to a black screen set the shutter at 2 secs, take a pic then set at 4 secs, take another pic. You won't see much on the LCD so you should download those tests to your editior - Paintshop Pro, Photoshop or whatever. THEN you get a much bigger pic (black) to look at. You'll probably find at least one or two little spots, almost inevitable with many, but you should NOT get many and also very noticeably bad spots. If so , complain and exchange.

I had good results with my Oly 2020 and a set of Tiffen close-up lenses (+7 and +10); they are 37mm, so won't work with the 2100, but you can find something similar in 49mm and larger size.

The Tiffen hot mirror works fine on my D500. On some cameras it's not needed as the lens system already has some amount of IR filtering. When IR is present it causes some tinting of sky towards purple. The filter works as a mirror by reflecting the 800 - 1100 nanometer wavelengths. This is the range that causes the problem. I wouldn't just buy one without determining if the camera really needs it. Mine may not need it in most cases but many of my pictures come from the Arctic and there's no way to do some over again. I had a real problem with a previous Casio so I didn't want to take any chances.

Is the white dot in the viewfinder? I could see that getting very annoying so I'd probably send it back. The shots I've taken indoors with the flash on the c2100 have not had any problems with over exposure. There are both exposure and flash compensation settings in the camera, make sure you haven't changed them by accident. If this is your first digital you have to get used to the way the images look, it's not the same as film. At first digial images look "soft" and more grainy, more so if you look at them at 1:1. I usually view them so they are about 8" wide on the screen, or about 1:2. As the number of pixels goes up the difference between different compression levels becomes less noticable. If you shoot in 640x480 mode you'll see a difference between high and normal. At full resolution on some shots you'll get better color on SHQ over HQ. And TIFF is rarely any better than SHQ.

You should not use the flash for these shots (unless you connect a powerful external flash), it won't help you at this distance. You should use the shutter priority mode and experiment with shutter speed (no flash) to get the best result - for sports action it should probably be faster than 1/100 sec. If the light is too low you may use higher ISO setting - 200 or 400 (though higher ISO will result in grainier images, it may be your only option for blur-free photos).

Yes, there are two ways 1. Connect the camera via USB, and look in File Explorer or 2. Take on the Media Storage Card and put it into a Card Reader attached to the computer. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/301217/Olympus-Camedia-C-2-Zoom.html?page=31#manual ..

Always charge batteries before using it for the first time, or if you have not used it for a long period. 3 months is a very long period. Always charge sets of batteries (2 or 4) together. Make sure your rechargeable batteries are all good. One defect in a set is killing for the whole set Don't use barrettes from different sets or brands together. I had one brand good NiMH batteries and a very expensive charger from the same brand. The charger destroyed all my rechargeable (more than 60 now). When I first discovered the batteries were dropping out, I stopped using the charger, but it did not prevent all batteries to die in the following months. Every time on dropped out I had to change the set. I tried using up the others by grouping the ones with the same Ri, but not longer then a few months and I had a box full to trow away. Never use a quick charger, capable of charging them within an hour or faster. Us a charger that indicates the Ri is still low enough, so you can see what batteries are bad. Check you are using a charger for NiMH batteries. I would try another set (new) because buying Alkaline is also not cheap. I used 2700 mAh and later 2600 mAh rechargeable, all dead now. since a few weeks I'm now using 2300 mHh from another brand, costing 1/5 of the "best" I had before, and they are doing great. I won't charge them with the quick charger. Never use manganese (Zinc-Carbon) batteries in electronic devices. These batteries are only to be used in flash lights.

Sounds like it needs a cleaning!

This 14 year old camera, does not have a zoom lens. It has a 5,5 mm lens, giving it a angle of view of about a 35 mm lens of a Full frame camera. However, you should be able to zoom digital 2 times. I can't find a manual, to help you on this, but the quality will be the same as cropping into a frame on your computer. So if you do put the pictures on a computer, you also can "zoom" in to the parts you want. Be aware a 1 megapixel camera, does not offer that much of detail.

Lens is out of possition and stuck.

Put memory card into camera right way around.

Hi, any error messages?

Like many point&shoot cameras, the SZ-12 does not have manual focus. The closest you can come is to point the camera at the object your want in focus, press the shutter release button halfway, then frame the photo the way you want it and press the shutter release button the rest of the way.