Top 20 Olympus Camedia C-3040 Zoom Digital Camera Questions & Answers

Here's an excellent blog about dead camera problems:
http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/11/simple-fix-for-dead-cameras-that-wont.html
Aside from severe oxidation on the internal battery contacts, or power switch, there's also the possibility, as you suspect, that the power feed circuit might be bad. Wish I could help you there, but cannot come up with a schematic, and unless you can find a shop that might have one, I doubt you'll get any help from Olympus, due to the item's age. Guess you've called around to the local shops, but that might be a lead, if you haven't tried already.
As far as the flash is concerned, you can charge up the flash capacitor while you're in there, and check it- it and the xenon bulb are the most suspect components to fail in that circuit, aside from the step-up coil, and you can ohm it out, although it still can be shorted unless you know the coils resistance.
I bought a Camedia Polaroid model in 2002, and it still works, however, I get a slightly grayish screen when I power it up. If I give the camera body a solid WHACK with my hand, it works. This, obviously, is a mechanical problem, but I bought a better one, so haven't investigated the problem. Probably not the same problem you're having, but just throwing it in...
I've never seen a fuse in any cameras I disassembled (a few Olympus), but if they have a fuse type component, I would suspect a FL (fusible link). They're usually around 1 ohm, and serve as current overload protection.
I would suspect a device of this type, if any, since the voltage is low, as well as current. There may be none.
Hope you find that schematic- it's tough to trace stuff out without one.
Good luck, hope something here helps...

Just right-click the picture file and the info should come up. If it doesn't, click on properties.

Judging by your explanation, the photos are on your sd digital memory card rather than the internal memory. Since you are unable to delete just those 15, it sounds like you might have accidentally enabled the "protect" function. Get out your manual (or download a new one) and read about how to protect/unprotect photos, and also read about how to format your card in camera - something you should do on a VERY regular basis for the health of your memory card. While you have the book out, read ALL of it - twice! You'll be amazed how much you'll learn.

Try deleting the problem picture..then attempt to upload again.

You can send it to Southern Photo
37 NE 167th St.
North Miami, FL 33162

They are an authorized Service center and may be able to assist you.

Hey raggedarmi,
Leaving the camera on for an extended period of time should not cause the camera to no longer turn on. Make sure the lens cap is not on the camera when you turn it on, and make sure you are not using manganese batteries because they don't work with this camera. The camera will not operate while connected to a computer so make sure you are not connected to a computer. The camera might be in sleep mode so try pushing the shutter button or hitting the zoom lever. If none of these options work try putting in a brand new set of AA batteries and see if that works and if it does it probably means your rechargeable batteries are bad.

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

There is no way either of you or a tech can fix this problem without taking the camera apart. Sounds to me like the worm or drive gear is stripped or displaced...probably a 10 cent part...unless you have the ability to do this type of work...its best left to the techs.

There is a risky thing to do...and that is...perhaps its just "jumped" the gear...so it grinds when it attempts to move either in or out....you may be able to manually turn the lens and "click" it back into place. Gently turn it all the way right...then all the way left.
I would want to look inside first before I do anything else...it may be an easy fix...taking it apart will be the not so easy thing.

SHQ1 and HQ are two different levels of compression to make the file smaller. This will have a great impact on the image quality. Generally on Olympus cameras, this is what those letters mean: TIFF (highest (best) quality) generally not used. Files are HUGE and takes a long time for the camera to save the image to the card. SHQ (super high quality) you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between this and the TIFF HQ (high quality) which is lower quality than SHQ SQ (standard quality) which is lower quality than HQ SQ1 (standard quality 1) which is lower quality that SQ SQ2 (standard quality 2) which is lower quality that SQ1 A 2048x1536 only seems large because most people have their monitors set to 800x600 or maybe 1024x768 (that's what I have mine set at). This will seem to make the image REALLY LARGE! It only seems that way because you have to scroll around to see the image. If you want to print images, you'll want all the resolution you can get. If you want to display them on your screen (slide show,WEB page) then you don't need large images. You would just need to resize them down. However, since you may want to both, getting a camera with a higher resolution gives you the choice to do either. Usually, the higher resolution cameras have better lenses and generally take better pictures. On my camera (the Oly 2100), I always shoot at the highest resolution and the least amount of compression (SHQ on my camera). This allows me to do almost anything with the image. Nowadays, camera media (smart cards) are fairly cheap, HD's are DIRT cheap and CD-Rs are very cheap. If the images are "keepers", then I personally would want to start with the best image possible and store the images on CD.

My backup for my rechargeable batteries is the Maha Powerbank, which is a small portable battery which last four hours. To be honesty I have not fully used it seem have not gone throught my two four sets of rechargeable batteries in a days shooting, yet again it is my backup. It been review on this website.

Get a CLA-1 lens tube. It screws into the camera body. The other end accepts 43mm accessories. Put on a 43-49mm step-up ring. Into that screw a 49mm UV filter. (The step-up ring is needed to separate the filter from the extended lens.) Leave the UV filter on at all times. Throw away the lens cap.

I don't believe you "need" the Oly code--it merely makes things easier by showing you a shadow edge view of the scene you just photographed to make alignment easier. You can do the same thing visually by sighting on a particular object on the right side (if you're moving from left to right) of the picture you're taking and including that site at the same up/down location in the next frame and so on. I previously had a Kodak digital and there were no codes or "assists" and I got some great panos.

I have very good experience with the original Olympus Macro Conversion lens with the CLA1 adapter. No visible distortion and no loss of contrast. The only problem I can imagine is the lighting of it all. You need to come real close! The internal flash of the camera will not work properly because the "huge" macro lens will cast a shadow. Some kind of external light source will be needed and manual corrections in the white balance have to be made too. The 3040 is a fine camera and I use it at least twice a week, but it still lacks some of the features of my old OM4 camera! Think about the easy focusing (manual) and the use of a ring flash! Because that is what you need.

A stuck pixel on the LCD is quite common. I have one on my 2020z; lot of people here would tell you the same thing. Long as it's just one, I wouldn't bother trying to get new camera. Far as the lens extension sound: It is a little loud, but a *grinding noise* doesn't sound normal. Go to a store and pick up another one, see if it makes the same sound. If not, you may have a bad camera.

Digital zoom in the camera means nothing. You can't create detail that isn't there. Enlarging and sharpening on the PC can produce much better results than in-camera digital zoom - no more real detail, but a better illusion of detail by enhancing edges. You can print up to about 8x10 with the 2100 or 11x14 with the 3040, but a zoomed in 2100 8x10 will probably be a more spectacular picture than the 3040's 11x14, unless you can get equivalently close to your subject. Also, the more precise viewfinder of the 2100 can make up for the difference in resolution. With the 3040, you are more likely to need to crop to print your desired view (unless you can use the LCD), since you can't see exactly what you are going to get when using the optical viewfinder and will tend to get more periphery than you want.

I have the Maha c204f charger and two sets of 1600mA Powerex Batteries. Over the past two months I have found that this is a perfect set up for my use of my Oly 2040. The batteries fully charge in under 3 hours, don't have a "memory effect", can be left in the charger without damage, and will take over 100 pictures with liberal use of flash, LCD, reviewing, etc. The whole set-up will cost you about $50 from

Yes, there are two ways 1. Connect the camera via USB, and look in File Explorer or 2. Take on the Media Storage Card and put it into a Card Reader attached to the computer. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/301217/Olympus-Camedia-C-2-Zoom.html?page=31#manual ..

Always charge batteries before using it for the first time, or if you have not used it for a long period. 3 months is a very long period. Always charge sets of batteries (2 or 4) together. Make sure your rechargeable batteries are all good. One defect in a set is killing for the whole set Don't use barrettes from different sets or brands together. I had one brand good NiMH batteries and a very expensive charger from the same brand. The charger destroyed all my rechargeable (more than 60 now). When I first discovered the batteries were dropping out, I stopped using the charger, but it did not prevent all batteries to die in the following months. Every time on dropped out I had to change the set. I tried using up the others by grouping the ones with the same Ri, but not longer then a few months and I had a box full to trow away. Never use a quick charger, capable of charging them within an hour or faster. Us a charger that indicates the Ri is still low enough, so you can see what batteries are bad. Check you are using a charger for NiMH batteries. I would try another set (new) because buying Alkaline is also not cheap. I used 2700 mAh and later 2600 mAh rechargeable, all dead now. since a few weeks I'm now using 2300 mHh from another brand, costing 1/5 of the "best" I had before, and they are doing great. I won't charge them with the quick charger. Never use manganese (Zinc-Carbon) batteries in electronic devices. These batteries are only to be used in flash lights.

Sounds like it needs a cleaning!

This 14 year old camera, does not have a zoom lens. It has a 5,5 mm lens, giving it a angle of view of about a 35 mm lens of a Full frame camera. However, you should be able to zoom digital 2 times. I can't find a manual, to help you on this, but the quality will be the same as cropping into a frame on your computer. So if you do put the pictures on a computer, you also can "zoom" in to the parts you want. Be aware a 1 megapixel camera, does not offer that much of detail.

Lens is out of possition and stuck.