Top 20 Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater w/Electronic Ignition (50,000-80,000 BTU) - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Sounds like the motor start capacitor is gone south on you. you can get them at a motor rebuilder.

Check inside the door panel next to the wiring schematic, you should find the diagnostic codes. Look up 7 blinks. This should narrow down the problem. ( It sounds like a bad hot surface ignitor).
Good luck.....

The thermal limiting switch is not working It is supposed to preventheat. have it changed before the place burns down.

adjust air mixer . its a slider

BEWARE OF HIGH VOLTAGE! 220VAC CAN KILL YOU! That said, it sounds like you have a short in the control (24VAC) curcuit to the condenser. A mouse probably made a home in the control compartment of your condenser. BEWARE OF HIGH VOLTAGE! 220VAC CAN KILL YOU!

colman uses the furnace to power the attic vent fan . Cheaper that way I guess. It just supplies your attic fan with power so it will vent thus keeping your home a little cooler in the summer.
not a big deal. you can shut the alarm with a switch ot cut power to the alarm.

yyoucan use it whenever you wish. The motor is rated for continuous duty so you can run it all the time if you so wish, the filer will just get dirty quicker

It depends on the model number of your unit. These boards are $200.00 and up.

the only thing you can do is turn it off for a couple minutes and try again sometimes you get it to lite off on retry otherwise call tech

This sounds like a bad heat exchanger. It is possible that you do not see the crack because the crack is closed when the heat exchanger is cold (or room temp). Allow the furnace to heat up, this will allow the expansion of the crack. Turn the power off and examine the heat exchanger while it is still hot.

start with making sure you have aclean filter, after that make sure the blower speed is at the proper setting when the air conditioning is on---usually either high or medium high for a fixed speed system, make sure the return air vents are not blocked or restricted as well as the delivery vents not close or restricted to cause too much static pressure ( back pressure at the delivery side can reduce air flow across the a-coil ) also make sure the insulation sheet that is usually above the a-coil is not being blown down across the a-coil entryside when the blower is on. After checking all these, if you find nothing you should start by having the pressure checked --- basically comparing the pressure at the "outside unit" to the pressure at the "inside unit" or a-coil. these are high side and low side pressures. Have you done anything else to the house----attic vents, new soffits, insulation, etc that may be affecting heat gain in the house.Is it a house, mobile home or what?

you could have a couple of reasons.If you use an extention cord that is too small,If the circut is overloaded.Bad breaker,good luck!

hire an electrician. period you may need to have a larger wire and larger breaker installed..
do not attempt to do it yourself unless you are a licensed journeyman electrician.. the problem is prolly fairly serious.
make sure if wire and breaker are replaced that the person who does it pulls a permit period..

I just bought a houseboat with the same furnace in it.  I will check it this weekend and provide you with the wiring directions should you still need them.

that sensor as you call it is a thermacouple it produces a small current which lets the gas valve know it is ok to open . if the pilot is not clean and correct it will not let main valve open. if your pilot is good then you have bad gas valve. you may have low gas pressure this can also do what you are describing

Remove the burner and gas valve from the furnace and use compressed air to blow the area under the pilot area ans all around it. The dust and stuff usually cause a condition called "Lazy Pilot" and the flame is probably not going in the designed directions. While you have it out Id replace the thermocouple with a new one reassemble and re-lite and note the difference. The flame should be mostly Blue and no yellow (or vary little at the top end of the flame only) Orange in the top area indicates a good burning flame and the closer to the base the bluer it gets.


While you have the burner out look inside and inspect the inner heat exchanger for cracks or rusted open holes there should be none. Turn on your fan while inspecting and see if you feel the steady blow of air from it inside the heat exchanger indicating a hole. Don't confuse the air that may come down the flue with the air from the blower though. A little breeze is expected from this.

This will take care of over 90% of the problems with the "Blow out" symptom.

If you still have problems you can try and "turn up the pilot". Usually a screw close to the pilot tubing is covering the adjustment screw. Put some soap bubbles around it so you can see if it leaks or not and turn the screw out for more flame (CCW) and in (CW) for less.

Hope this helps Please grade me accordingly and good luck.

The click noise you hear is the magnet inside the valve dropping out. Which means, the voltage that energizes it is low or interupted. Possible, weak pilot flame, bad thermocouple or bad secondary limit switch. This limit switch is located left of the main control. made of ceramic. It can also be a bad gas valve...

Short of being able to look at everything Its impossible to say exactly what the trouble is. Does the board have a blink code showing and a legend that says what this is? What fuel are you on NG or LP? What does the flame look like (if you can see it) IE a lot of yellow, Some orange and Blue...?. Did anyone else look at the system and the thermostat? Does it have AC or HP on it too?

The only 1 thing I may be able to offer is this. On your thermostat (if it is not electronic) there is a needle pointer that points to a number it should be around .4 to .7 if set to a lower number the thermostat will cut the unit off well before it completes a heat cycle.

Typically you normally will have five wires controlling your furnace and airconditioning. R Y W G C. If you get some thermostat wire. Connect them like this---- red wire will go to R(this is your 24V to thermostat)----yellow wire will go Y(Y is your cooling)----white wire will go W(W is for heating)---green wire to G(green is your fan)---black can go to C(this is your common to supply 24Vto thermostat)

first off buy yourself a honeywell stat, in my personal opinion lux stats are garbage, I have run into so many that are bad stats !!! but as far as your fan not shuting down, sounds to me like your fan center on your circuit board is bad and will not shut down the fan when needed, you will have to replace the circuit board, as the fan center is a part of the whole of the circuit board, hope that helps