20 Most Recent Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater w/Electronic Ignition (50,000-80,000 BTU) - Page 9 Questions & Answers

hi the gas goes along aburner tube then comes out of the burner then it hits a baffle in side the heat exchanger as long as there is not sooting the flame will look yellow , i would say the best thing would be to contact the makers of the furnace direct they should have a technical department , they might be able to offer more help or have there own people to look at the heater most of these companys have a warrenty on there heaters

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Jan 11, 2010

Make sure all switches are on and open. It may take a few attempts to get gas to the burners so you may have to reset the furnace by either the Emergency switch or circuit breaker. If it takes longer than 3 tries, you may have a gas regulator problem and will need to call your gas company for repair. The regulator belongs to the gas company so they shouldn't charge you to repair or replace.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Jan 04, 2010

Find the exhaust blower and follow a small rubber hose to either a round disc or square plastic block. Jump out the two wires going to it to see if the system starts. It could be just some debris in one of the hoses.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Jan 02, 2010

Just wanted to make sure you knew this model is on a recall list:

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Jan 02, 2010

The thermostat has terminals which are marked for color, R = red, W = white, Y =yellow, G =green. There should be a jumper between Rh and Rc, Hook the red to Rh.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Jan 01, 2010

Your unit definitely is on a recall list. Go to http://www.dgatprogram.com/

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 31, 2009

Pressure switch error code, check air filter, condenstate drain and hoses, check for vent blockage, check for low spots in the venting holding water.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 30, 2009

Most commonly if it lights just for a few seconds and goes right back out.....the flame sensor is not sensing the presence of the flame. This can most commonly be cleared up by cleaning the flame sensor.

The flame sensor is located in the burner area, it typically has a single wire leading to a piece of porcelain with a stainless rod protruding from the porcelain (mounted with a single screw) turn the furnace off, remove the screw, use some steel woal to clean the rod, put it back together and test it. BE SURE TO STAY CLEAR OF THE CARBIDE IGNIGHTOR......IT IS VERY FRAGILE.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 29, 2009

Are you saying you lose the pilot flame or the main burner flame? A cracked heat exchanger will cause a "venturi effect" when the blower cycles on. This effect will cause blower to interfere with combustion air and **** out the pilot, and cause lifting of the main burner flames (also add oxygen to the flames changing their color).

Some of your newer style furnaces will kick the hi limit when they have a crack in the exchanger dropping the flame and bringing the blower on.

If you are pretty confident of a crack I would suggest a water test.....After the furnace has cooled. determine which way will most easily access the heat exchanger through the top (under the a-coil) from the "plenium". or from below by removing the blower with it's housing.

once you have determined your approach get a bug sprayer and put water in it. With the heat exchanger cool, use the wand of the sprayer to liberally spray the top of the exchanger. If there is a crack the water will find its way into it. Take a flashlight and look into the bottom of each burner slot, if you see water, you have a crack, shut it down and replace it.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 29, 2009

Most furnaces are equiped with a two speed blower. Hi speed is controlled by a relay sytem initiated by the thermostat. short of a stuck relay, hi speed should not remain on unless your thermostat "fan swith" has been moved from "auto" to "on", if this is the case turn the switch to "auto"

Low speed is controlled solely by the furnace itself. Depending on the age and brand of the furnace it is either brought on by time or temperature.

From your description of "tapping the relay of the limit switch" I assume you have an older furnace with a combination fan/limit control. The most common of these were a grey box with a removeable rectangular lid. In some cases there was a (commonly white) switch poking through this cover which you could manually turn low speed on if you pushed it in, make sure it is pulled out.
Otherwise the switch is refered to as a bi-metal limit. When heated the two dis-similar metals (coiled together) expand and contract at different rates. When the furnace cycles on, the metals heat and, due to design, twist a dial, which you should be able to see under the rectangular lid. The dial should have three pin settings for the purpose of switching. the lowest setting, usually around 105, is the fan OFF setting. The second, usually aroun 135, is the fan ON setting. The highest should be fixed around 250 it is the high limit and should not be part of your problem.
....After your thermostat has been satisfied and the flame shuts down...you can physically watch that dial move clockwise and hopefully reach the setting of around 105, unlesss that setting is set below the temperature of the room the furnace is in (try setting this setting higher to see if it helps).
(make and age of furnace helps a lot with trying to trouble shoot, also is it a mobile home unit?)

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 29, 2009

3 flashes is the combustion pressure switch . Mounted on the front mid high. Two silicone hoses run to it along with blue two wires. By now you have probaly got this fixed though.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 29, 2009

The chances are that the furnace was running when the power went out. This will cause the high limit switch to cutout and needs to be manually reset.
You will find that switch in the blower compartment near the blower. Usually somewher near the highest point of the cabinet.
Push the little red button firmly till it clicks.
When the power goes out while the furnace is running the heat builds up because the blower shuts down immediately and causes this limit switch to cut out.
If you have a electric tester you can also follow the low voltage circuit till you find the open switch. Ther is usually a wiring schematic on the door cover of most furnaces.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!


Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 24, 2009

you have to replace the ignition control board.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 12, 2009

This is probably the fan limit that is bad. It should be a black bow tie looking thing next to or near the blower.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 12, 2009

If the fan speed is not set correctly and running on low or medium for heat then the high limit could be tripping fan should be running in high speed for heat.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 11, 2009

The problem is withthe venting. Your vent pipe goes out of the house in such a way as to catch the air when it is windy and cause the pressure switch to cut out. The flame may only run for a short time, then shut down and then restart. The heat exchanger never gets hot enough to give you warm air.

Check where the vent pipes exit the house. Try adding on an elbow and turning it so that the wind cannot blow back the pipe. Turning it down towards the ground often is good. Make sure that the exhaust cannot recirculate back to the intake pipe also.
Also check that there is no water build up hanging in a pool where the vent pipe may have sagged a bit. this will make the pressure switch much more sensitive.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!


Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 11, 2009

It should have a two part chimmney with a 4 inch inner exhaust section and a larger 6 inch outer section that goes over the flange on the top of the furnace. If your existing chimmney does not have this you may have to buy a chimmney kit for a mobile home application.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 11, 2009

Without knowing exactly what brand and model number your furnace is I will take a shot at this.. If you have a condensing furnace which I think you probably have, and the temperatures got below freezing where the furnace was then you have condensate frozen inside the furnace.
This frozen condensate will keep the inducer fan pressure switch from making and allowing the furnace to start. Had this problem just last year at a camp in a building that they did not always use and turned the furnace off.
To get it working the easiest thing to do is set a little electric heater in the return plenum under the furnace and let the heat slowly thaw the small passage ways that are frozen in the furnace.
It may take at least a few hours till you can get everything thawed enough to turn it on.

The other simple explanation is that the pressure switch is simply so cold that the diaphram is too stiff to work... a heat gun or hair dryer on that will help that out. The pressure switch in usually 2-3 inches around and silver in color with a small hose or two attached to it.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!


Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 10, 2009

if you are getting power to the gas valve, then all of the safety switches should be closed. if you have any drain lines off of the inducer fan and at the bottom of the heat exchanger, make sure they have a trap and have water in them. the pressure switch may be the culprit.

Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 09, 2009

Ok, should be fairly straight forward...

Are you turning the gas on at the top of the gas cylinder and getting a quick hiss as it primes the gas pipe?

Also, are you getting a healthy Blue spark when you push the ignitor button?



Coleman Propane... | Answered on Dec 08, 2009

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