20 Most Recent RCA P56812BL 56" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

Did the mute get activated by chance?

This set does not use a convergence chip. All discrete parts.Two things to check--Is the convergence option still seen in the menu?If not there is a kit for that with 3 parts to change. And if convergence was going in and out before this---the set is prone to bad solder connections under the high voltage transformer where the 3 part kit is located also.The board with the transformer is would have to be removed to look for the bad connections.Transformer is also called a Flyback.

Hello matter0464 and a warm welcome to Fixya. The issue you are asking about is actually rather common with the RCA P56812BL after it gets a few years on it. The problem is most likely the high voltage circuit located on the main board. I would start there before looking elsewhere. Also inspect the 195 AP fuse on the main board as well because it is known to blow out periodically. Well I hope this was helpful and good luck to you. Thanks for using FixYa.

This problems it is the tv convergence board it is dead.The tv convergence board is not distrubuting voltages around the tv anymore.Tries websites like Tvrepairworld.com,Tvrepairkits.com to buy a tv convergence kit belong to ur tv model and repair it ur self.The tv convergence kit also came with a tutoring DVD disc.

The first thing to try is to unplug the unit for 30 minutes and plug it back in and try it. If the unit had a temporary glitch in the software it should reboot and clear the problem and work. If this does not solve your problem I have a tip at

http://www.fixya.com/support/r6396176-projection_tv_troubleshooting

which will walk you through the troubleshooting procedure for a crt projection tv.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/41128/SONY_Projection.html
You may need to clean your lens on your projector, but also i may just need to be used for a while, and it may "Come back" You see when electronics are left without any power going through them, it can, and does have a deleterious affect on any unit. Things called Electrolytic capacitors, need to "Form" this happens when the current flows through them, and they build up an oxide layer, and work as they are meant to. Now when, there has been no electricity flowing through the capacitors, the "Dry Out" loose their oxide layer, and, if left long enough will go so faulty, as to often prevent the unit from working, properly or even, completely. So there is NO doubt there is a component in there that applies to your set. You need to leave it on for about say, 12 hours straight, if it isn't OK, after that, then you are going to have to troubleshoot, and possibly adjust the convergence and focus setting, as per the manual. www.scribd.com/.../Philips-DPTV400-TV-Projection-Training-Manual
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2&searchstring=J52A+(projection)
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/how2adj.html
http://www.pdfee.com/search/Toshiba%20rear%20projection%20training%20manual
Those links above will assist you. They are Projection TV training manuals, so you can get to grips with what to do.

Check all inputs and tuner, that you can, and report back.

that depends on the tv. We need the model number to try and help you more with this.

If it were me I would open it up and start looking for bad capacitors on the boards. If they are getting bad they should be domed out at the top. When you find them make sure you mark the way they are mounted on the board. I always used a permanent marker and put a line on the board according to where the stripe on the capacitor was. If there are more than one bad capacitor try replacing them one at a time (dont turn the tv on until they are all replaced) this will help reduse confusion as to which new one goes in which hole.

So my TV has been playing up, and I’ve finally mended it, and so I’m putting up this post in case anyone googles their way here to find a solution.
I turned on my TV the other week and was confronted with the colour distorted into a strange circular/bullseye effect (see below). The picture was fine apart from the colour, and so I was hoping it would be something that I could sort out myself as I was unwilling to immediately take it to a TV repairman and part will with hard-earned cash, or think about buying a new TV.

I didn’t really know what I was searching for and so resorted to Yahoo Answers, where I got a response from a TV technician who tipped me off and had this to say:
The Degausser in your TV mis-fired causing the bulls-eye pattern….give it a day or two to disappear.
If it doesn’t disappear, you either haven’t turned off your TV for 30 minutes, or your degausser actually has a problem with it….Call a TV engineer to degauss it and check the operation of your TV’s degausser…..
I followed his instructions but they didn’t work will but it gave me an idea of what I should be trying to do, and so I continued my search around the web and around forums for how to degauss a TV and in particular what degaussing actually means.
“Degaussing is the process of decreasing or eliminating an unwanted magnetic field” – Wikipedia
From what I understand there are magnetic fields everywhere which can interfere with your TV/monitor, and every time you switch on your TV the inbuilt degausser kicks in and re-calibrates the screen by causing a magnetic field inside the tube to oscillate rapidly with decreasing amplitude until everything is hunky dory. As I said this works for everyday magnetic interference but when your TV gets effected by a powerful magnet, etc, which I’ve decided is what happened to mine (due to a stereo speaker), then the inbuilt degausser simply doesn’t have enough power to re-calibrate the screen.
Several forums recommended getting a more powerful degausser, a degaussing coil, but searching around I couldn’t find any UK stores that sold them, and the only place I could see where to get one was from Uxcell.com, which is based in Hong Kong. I had doubts in my mind about buying from a Hong Kong shop but as it only cost £10 in total I ordered it and figured that it was worth a try and I had very little to lose. I ordered the deguasser on Thursday and it arrived on Tuesday, so only 5 days to come from Hong Kong, which was pretty great.

The degausser came with no instructions and just in a jiffy bag, but it did come complete with an adapter plug, and luckily I had read about how to use it effectively with the TV.
Instructions for degaussing this way is too hold the degausser next to the TV screen (already on) and hold down the power button on the deguasser and then slowly move away from the screen whilst circling it to cover the whole of the screen. Once three or four feet away the screen should be back to normal and then rotate the deguasser so it’s smallest profile is facing the screen and turn it off.
An important thing to remember is that degaussers are also used for wiping magnetic recording media such as tapes, floppy discs, and hard-drives, so when using it keep all that stuff away! I shifted anything like that out of the room.
I did exactly as above and could see the colour returning to the screen, and then it was perfect! Great news and it only cost me £10 instead of calling out a proffesional to do it. I really do enjoy learning new things like this, especially when it saves me money!
Categories: Buying Stuff, DIY, Film, TV, Video, & Gaming, Technology
Tags: CRT, degauss, degaussing coil, magnet, solution, Television, TV

As I recall, it was about $300. I knew what the problem was (power supply IC), but I felt it was worth the $300 to have someone else carry the tension of ordering and installing it and if I was wrong, correcting the problem.

It has worked well since. It has been good fortune that I was able to get it fixed twice. Better TVs are coming out all the time and I think we are at a point now where you can get the new HD wide screen units for a pretty good price. If you are able to wait a year or so longer, we might be into OLED TVs and LCDs with LED backlighting. The future is, apparently, 3D. I am going to CES this Thursday where I hear that may be the big thing.

how old is the tv?

RESOLDER CIRCUIT BOARD LOOK FOR CRACK SOLDERING AT TRANSISTORS FOR CONVERGENCES

Sounds like the high voltage block,part number 205064,this part is behind the speaker grill,there is a access panel to remove,part is between the left and middle tube,has red wires from the tubes and black ground wires on the left side,hope this helps.

call RCA and give them a M# thay you send you the not cheap.
or go to part store.comor rca part.com

This set normally has problems in the horizontal and high voltage circuit. The horizontal output will short out and I often change the high voltage transformer. The high voltage splitter is another one of the usual suspects. Since it's ticking at plug in, then, I would look at the secondary of the high voltage transformer or the regulator circuit. Checking the the horizontal output first for a short and if ok, checking the B+ voltage on the collector would be my next step. That should give a good thought as which direction to go. Hope this helps.

Is this cable connected up to your TV set thruogh the tuner, the RF input, or the video and audio outputs, scart connector? You may want to make sure the cable box does not have a mute or a volume control turned down, and make sure the TV's audiop setting is not on SAP. Good Luck

you have a convergence problem and this can only be serviced by a tech with the know how to service the rca projections sets as there are many alignments in this set and some are manual driven but mosrt are on screen driven. You need the know how to get into the service mode. Sorry my friend but my recomendations would be to send this set out for service.

Try to check the power supply output side where anything could came into contact with positive and negative line for which when you press play button then it shuts down.