20 Most Recent RCA P52926 52" Rear Projection Television - Page 3 Questions & Answers

If total dead (no lights on blinking etc) follow power cord into the set and find and check the main fuse--in this set it usually is a glass 5 amp fuse.

You can get one from www.tvrepairworld.com you need the 239111 Flyback transformer for that model.

The model listed is an older set----usually if it HAS the splitter it is up front----but most there is not one as it is part of the high voltage transformer----look on the label on the rear where model number is for a Chassis number, that will tell me instantly if a splitter exists or not PTK-------

This is a bad IC more than likely and it is a common problem of CRT Rear Projection television sets. The easiest way to tell is by doing as your friends suggest and that is to attempt to adjust the CONVERGENCE in the menu settings. This is an 11 year old television set and I can't really remember where in the menu you find that but I think it's under "PICTURE."
Here's a quick explanation of what convergence means and what you are doing when you adjust these settings: your television set's display is controlled by the three individual colored projection "guns" with in red, blue and green, Convergence is exactly what it sounds like; converging the projection of the three guns perfectly so that they align perfectly on top of each other, basically synchronizing the three images so that they provide a perfect picture. Convergence can be off for a variety of reasons but the most common is caused from set being moved. You should always adjust your convergence settings after you move a set. Most convergence issues are minor where you notice a duplicate, shadow or "ghosting" of another color around the edge of the images on your display. Then there are at the extreme cases such as your where you get the extreme lack of convergence resulting in the "D" effect as you described.
Normally if it is just a convergence issue, even the most extreme cases with the 3D effect can be fixed by simply aligning the guns through the convergence controls on the user menu on the set but what you indicated about the bowing in indicates a much bigger problem. I'm assuming that it looks something like this:


Obviously not all sets are the same so your mileage may vary on exactly what it looks like but this the result of of the IC going bad and since your post indicates that you lack experience with TV repair, you'll have to have it done professionally and that's going to st you back at least $800. RP CRT's (and CRT's in general) are unfortunately archaic technology and repair shops don't sd a whole lot of work with it anymore. Also, again, this is an 11 year old RP CRT and this won't be the last thing to go bad on it.
Considering the age of the television and the cost to repair, it is far more cost effective to purchase a nice new HDTV. For the cost of fixing this set, you can get a Mitsubishi 60" DLP 1080p HDTV that's 3D ready even. Of course the price of LCD's and Plasmas have gone down dramatically as well so that may be an option for you as well. Do some internet searches. TigerDirect is good, NewEgg is as well and keep an eye out for online retailers who offer free shipping. Go to Reseller Ratings and sign up for their newsletter where they'll provide with links for the hottest deals of the day from all around the web and most often they include free shipping.
Good luck! I hope this answers your question.

You had at first either a power supply or pincussion circuit problem.Going to likely be a shop repair unless you can find a schematic and know what to look for.A good idea would be with set unplugged take a look inside for anything popped or even burnt.In the power area look for any bad caps.If in the power supply they will be larger but should look something like the above.

If model number is correct (on rear of set in small letters it should be a PTK 195 chassis) you have a high voltage lead somewhere that is arcing.This set did have issues with the High Voltage transformer failing and also that High Voltage (well over 10,000 volts) gets distributed to each of the 3 picture tubes this model uses.Sometimes the lead where it connects to one of the tubes begins to arc---it is coated with white silcone to prevent this.If arcing around the entry point to any of the tubes sooner or later it will take the set down--destroy parts that are currently ok.Usually we locate this by turning set on with back off and looking and listening when set is turned on---If a frying or pop is heard up above the main boards--one of the entry points (called the 2nd Anode) is arcing.I have seen them arc hard enough and long enough to actually crack and break the glass wall of the picture tube.

Your TV is haunted !j/k Perhaps your remote is all wet underneath the buttons, you can remove the batteries from the remote to remove this as a possibility, If the tv comes on still and changes channels still, then you know its not the remote. You may also have defective batteries leaking acid all over the place in there. If it is the remote, you can unscrew and open up your remote and clean the circuit board button landing pads with rubbing alcohol and clean the other side of the rubber conductive pads that touch the landing pad area from the back of the button itself.Hope for the best and Good luckChristopher

I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:ISSUES: 1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.Answers to issues:1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have to buyand try a board to see if it fixes it or not.4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.If set is opened at least look for puffed up and bad caps like in thisphoto.

No, replace STK IC, STK730-010? Located above chassis is a small board it should be on it.
Mats Electronics Has them for $5.95
1-800-628-1118

your convergence board may be going out its about a 100.00 part but about 300 to have it installed

overheats, clean all vents

Thats usually caused by failed power capacitors CP150, CP120 and CP114 you can get the RCA CP150 CP120 and CP114 re[pair kit from www.tvrepairworld.com which comes with instructions. That will usually solve the 3 flash issue.

The model indicated is a older set but chirping usually means a short in the deflection circuit. Is model number correct?If the model number is correct (chassis number on back should be something like PTK195) it has a "Light Box" which is entire guts of the set---it can be removed and operated with the remote for troubleshooting.If model number is correct the set may be too old for any extensive repair as some parts are no longer available for it.Let me know if you have questions.

You might check with www.tvrepairworld.com they can usually get the hard to find circuit boards.

You have to take the front grill from off the set to get to the switches on the front. You will need to spray the switches with electronic contact cleaner to clean them. Especially the menu switch. Squirt them and work them with your finger to loosen the dirt. If this does not fix the problem you will have to change the switches (especially the menu) which requires unsoldering and soldering in new ones.

P52926 If this is the correct model number...you have a bad resistor that feeds the voltage to the filaments of the tubes. But first check to see if there is an orange glow in each tube. This will be the problem if there is no glow. The glow should be see located at the socket where the circuit board is. Otherwise you could have a bad vertical deflection circuit if there is a glow

Check for shorted horitzontal transistor.

Check TV shops for use screeens