Above is your service manual link.
OK well what usually destroys them is incorrect voltage IN, or a capacitor or diode shorted on the output(s). This is a very common problem. However you MUST always repair the Cause as well as the Damage, you so far have only replaced a Damaged part, but have NOT found and fixed the reason why this all happens. One simply MUST start at the Power supply, ensure ALL voltages there are spot on, and work out from there as to finding the actual "Cause" of the Fault, and any damage caused by same.
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go and try to repair you set. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Now this link above is a Training manual, this is what we use to train the engineers on How to Find and repair faults, it should give you a good insight as to what to do, and how to go about it.