20 Most Recent Air Conditioning and Heat for Dodge Sprinter 3500 Standard Roof Questions & Answers

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I'm guessing here, but it could chirp to let you know the battery in the remote is dead?

If it was a new tire on the original rim, the sensor may have been damaged. If it is a new tire and rim, there may be no sender. They are usually in (or are) the valve stem. Some need to be reset with a magnet. I'd check your owners manual for more details.

If you mean 'limp home mode'; does it say that or throw any codes? Many times it is caused by a defective mass airflow sensor but the codes will tell the story

TIPM could be to blames, there are several recalls and complaints about the module. That said, it will usually cause other issues than just front signals. I'd be looking at connections and the switch itself.

top hose running to the engine will be Hard

This can be caused by a bad key or a bad WIN module. You will need scan tools to correctly diagnose. An automotive locksmith may also be able to help with testing your key for proper transmission.

Something is not connected right. The alarm should not inhibit normal day to day use of your transponder key. Recheck connections and be sure no factory connections are loose.

Year, model?

More information would be necessary to answer this question. Is there a red dot on the dash that blinks when you turn on the key? If so, you may have an immobilizer fault involving the WCM (immobilizer ECU) and / or transponder key. Scanners will be necessary to read the data from the ECU.

Take it to tranny shop

• If your looking to just change the filter and oil in the trans you can buy a kit and do it yourself, not all that hard but can be messy. Got to drain and drop the pan.but you will not be changing out the majority of the oil.much of it still remains torque converter so if you want to get a complete oil change go to a transmission specialist they have equipment to take it all out and replace with new..

PUT A NEW PVC VAVLE ON IT.

warped rotors or abs system is working

Autozone.com or Advanceautoparts.com would be a good start.

First code is 12, that just signifies the beginning of telling you codes. Sometimes means that the battery has recently been disconnected or dead. Next code is 22. I believe that is for coolant temp sensor, either failure or because someone unhooked it to set the timing. Unhooking the coolant sensor tells the computer to go to basic ignition timing. Usually about 10 or 12 degrees. 3rd code is 55 and only signifies "end of codes". No real codes except 22. If that code is there because someone set the timing then it will automatically erase itself after 20 to 40 start, run cycles. About a week. Hope this helps

If using an electronic distributor from an 80's or 90's vintage vehicle then there are 2 different schematics. http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html This web site from ALLPAR has a perfect description with great looking, color coded wiring schematics. Hope this helps

1960's 383, and 440 big block engines both have hydraulic lifters with a rocker shaft that has no adjustment. 426 Hemi and I believe the 413 had adjustable rockers.

I'd suspect the thermostat again. But I think you radiator core is partially blocked and you had overheating, so the need for a new thermostat. It doesn't help to replace the thermostat alone, most modern thermostats have a composite metal alloy retaining the spring, so when the radiator overheats the alloy fuses over and releases the spring, completely opening the flow of cooling liquid. One of the symptoms of radiator blockage may be a non-operating interior heater (it's also clogged). One way to test the radiator for blockage, is to start the truck cool, let's say first thing in the morning, and carefully put your hand on the radiator fins, moving along the surface, as the motor starts heating. If you detect a mix of warm and cool zones, your radiator is clogged. I'd recommend you first change ALL of your hoses (ALL means ALL of them, including heater, A/C, etc), then do a cooling system flush, then drain completely the system and try to force water to clean debris in the system, then blow compressed air to flush the remaining liquids. Now, change the main radiator and the heater radiator, install a new thermostat and fill it with NEW (check the dates) liquid coolant. If you're doing your own mix, use only distilled water; even if the system is a closed circuit, minerals in the few gallons or quarts of water can interact with aluminum parts in you motor. Since you'll be removing the radiator, I'd check also the water pump seals, it may be worth to change them, even if they are not leaking; water pump seals and gaskets are a common problem with Dakotas and Durangos. Hope this helps.