Samsung HCN4727W 47" Rear Projection Television - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Light bulb likely bad if a DLP type set - may also need a ballast assembly.

You may have pressed a wrong button when in service mode---it allows among other things to turn individual colors off like Blue--to make it easy to adjust red to green first.Also take a look with set on into the Blue lens to make sure you have a image and it does not look like a blue flood light.a last note: if you tampered with the lens (they have a wing nut on side that allows them to be turned you may have on the blue turned the lens so far there is no focus---for that lens--Did you?

Thats a convergence issue which is caused by the convergence amp board needing repair. The samsungs with the P55A chassis such as your model usually require replacing the convergence amp board which is a simple unplug old board and plug in the new one repair. You can get the convergence amp board for your model from www.tvcircuitboards.com

You want to re-align the convergence for this tv correct? It is not hard, you can do it yourself. You really need to get the service manual to do this. Use a good input source for the 480i input and maybe an xbox or blu-ray player to help with verifying alignment for the 1080i input.


Too much to explain here, so search on google for the service manual. You will likely need the original remote for the tv as I think a universal remote will not have all the button you need on it to complete the alignment.

Encompass Parts Distribution 1-800-638-3328
They have 3 in stock for $114.04 PN# BP94-00505N

It should connect to the screen/focus control block,if this is a projection set.

jdowell1,

The easiest solution would be to go to http://www.servicemanuals.net and purchase a downloadable service manual for about $16 US. If you plan on working on this unit in the future it should more than pay for itself. The manual would have the values of the components and much more valuble information.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the generous rating.

hardrocko

Projection sets have two very common problems.

The first common problem is convergence


These sets need to have all three colors - RED - BLUE - GREEN - lined up correctly on the screen in order for the picture to look normal. This is called convergence.

When its out of alignment the video will look 3-D, wavy, distorted, etc. Most of the time you just need to adjust your convergence in the menu. If you cannot adjust it in the menu - then your convergence is broken and needs to be repaired. Convergence problems are very common on all Projection TV sets including Sony, Samsung,JVC,Philip Magnavox,Panasonic,Akai,Pioneer, Hitachi,Mitsubishi,Zenith and others.
You can get more information and a DIY convergenece repair kit with instructions from the link below.

Here are some of the most common problems with these sets...

*Screen Looks 3-D
*Colors wont align
*Screen may look distorted or warped
*No Audio/Video - TV Shuts down - May also make a constant chirping sound

Problem #2 - Another common problem is dull or washed out video.

Your set may have one or more of the following symptoms....

*Dull looking picture
*White looking picture
*Halos around objects
*Red/Orange looking picture

You can see some more examples and find a fix using this link on Fixya http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

try the read the manual if no manual try to adjust the settings of the color of your tv

Try to clean the lenses with alcohol and q-tips, then try to converge the colors. Good luck!

Not,possible to dequassing,to demagnetizing,if u drop the tv,because the CRT yoke is damage the magnetic field out of wack,can not,do anything to it.

Also less beer

either the lamp, ballast or power supply need to be replaced.

This is a very common issue on these TV's. The pro-scan module is failing and must be replaced. Here is a link to the part number and ability to order it. The module is a plug in device and in the TV is surrounded by a metal shield. The module is very easy to replace and just requires that you unplug the TV before removing the back.

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9500142N/New.aspx

Aging eletrolytic capacitors cannot hold the voltages necessary to keep the color guns in alignment. This is NOT a problem you can fix yourself. The are DANGEROUS high voltages inside your TV which can persist for WEEKS after the set is off.
You must call a qualified service technican for repair.

Well we need to have in mind that a generic lamp will give you 3500 to 4500 lamp hours and the Phillips will give you 6000 to 8000 lamp hours ,The lamp itself typically uses AC current and about 15,000 volts to ignite the lamp's mercury vapor gas. The gases inside the lamp react when electricity charges up the mercury gas creating very bright light. The voltage drops to keep the flow of electricity to the lamp.
The symptom of a bad ballast is that you could hear a constant CLICKING or electrical BUZZING sound,my recomendation is to take out the lamp to physically check for any sings,(shatter fillement,black or grey spots in the fillement or smoke ) you can get good deals at http://www.discount-merchant.com/?click=52978
Please keep us posted,

Bad Light Engines - Lamp- Color wheel- DMD Board - Ballast Board --ac power supply board .Call Encompass for parts 1-800-638-3328

This is a common problem. Your convergence has gone out.

Common symptoms are...

1) 3D Video
2) Warped Video
3) Convergence menu does not adjust the red or blue correctly.

Go here for a solution...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861627-updated_convergence_problems_amp

No, have you ever heard the old saying "...don't try this at home."? The problem you're having could be a simple adjustment of the HV (High Voltage) block feeding each of the three tubes. But that voltage is high enough to kill you several time over. It could also be a leaky anode cap which delivers that voltage to the three CRTs. Problem is the adjustments, even if that's all there is, have to be made live. That means the Tv must be on and running. Personally I'd leave this to a qualified tech. The good news is it can be accomplished in a service-call if it's simply an adjustment. And if not the tech can usually diagnose that problem in the same call and if he has to replace the HV block it's fairly uncomplicated.
Hope this helps!
Bill

William Rayburn, CET
Premium Technologies
PO Box 442
Long Beach, WA. 98631
360-642-4993

Mike,
The ICZ designations on that board are two Sanyo STK392-040 amps used for convergence. Rz142 through Rz145 are the yoke return circuit are 3.9 ohm 1/2w resistors. CZ140 and 141 are two electrolytic radial 22mf/50v caps in the feed circuit for those amps.
My question would be - and I've NEVER seen this, in my 30 years in electronics, what caused such a domino failure? The amps are basically LV fed by a +/- 24v line input. If the yoke(s) were to short shouldn't cause enough feedback to destroy the convergence board in the manner you've indicated here. That's a P58A chassis used in several models of the Samsung and Akai designs. Only trouble I've heard of with those boards are cooling and most techs have taken to installing cooling fans directly on the board, driven by the +/- 20v line. That drops the temp several degrees and allows the amps to operate at a much cooler temp. We rebuild those boards here on a daily basis and add the mods for greater reliability. But other than that the P58A is considered a bullet proof chassis.
Hope this helps!
Bill

William Rayburn, CET
Premium Technologies
PO Box 442
Long Beach, WA. 98631
360-642-4993