20 Most Recent Exterior for Ford Focus (3 Door) Hatchback - Page 6 Questions & Answers

could be many random problems , like the cam position sensor could have a crack in it or has gone bad/ the crank shaft sensor could also have failed or could be dirty with metal at the end of the magnet , also the cam synchronizer could be bad as well . this can cause the engine to run very rough and misfire / also could be your coil packs etc... your best option would be to take it to a mechanic to do a diagnostic on your vehicle

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Could be one of several different things i.e. major vacuum leak, mass air flow sensor (MAF), manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) or EGR valve malfunction just to name a few. Based on the year of the truck? best thing is to have the engine control management computer (ECM) scanned and checked for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) which should lead you in the right direction.

1st PLACE TO CHECK WOULD BE AN IN-LINE FUEL FILTER!

I suspect you have to use a unique code to do that. Get in touch with your local Ford agent. Meanwhile I found this on another site - it may help! Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward all the way just before cranking. Then within 5 seconds, locate, press and hold in the valet/overide button, found under the dash area, (push button, spring loaded) until the installed LED (the blinking light) in your dash area goes on solid, and the siren chirps once. (Your valet switch might be the toggle (on/off) type. in this case, key on, flip switch in opposite direction, then turn the key off.) This should reset the alarm, and reset the grounded relay on the starter wire, allowing you to start the engine. At this point, the only thing working would be the keyless entry from the alarm, if it came equipped that way. Just Repeat these steps to place it back to usable armed mode. You may get 2 chirps, confirming it, and the lights may flash twice as well

check antifreeze in the reservoir when antifreeze level is low the heat goes out. also check passenger floorboard for any antifreeze that could identify possible leaking heater core. If everything is good most likely its the heater core itself. check wiper fuse under the dash and relay under hood. if the wipers seem to have a bit of movement when you turn them on but dont go up, check the wiper bolt on the actual wiper arm. when these come loose they wont move. if you check all of this and everything checks out, could be a possible wiper motor.

What year model is it? Is there an anti theft indicator? Have u tried charging the battery or having it tested

Sounds like you could have air in the control module (metal box with lots of lines going to it). This can happen if you replace the master cylinder or ran the reservoir out of fluid and sucked air . I've used a mighty vac to pull down *most* of the air in these type systems but many times you have to use the old pump pump pump, hold, squirt, let up, method. Also there is a "specific order" you have to bleed the wheel cylinders in or you will *never* get the air out. Check the manual for the proper order to bleed the wheels. BTW, if you're getting *any* foamy fluid out of the bleeders you still have air. I usually drain and flush all the fluid out of my system and replace with clean fluid when I do a four wheel or change the master cylinder. This means I *bench* bleed the replaced parts (calipers, master cylinder, wheel cylinders for drums, etc.) and go through a lot of fluid getting all the air out. Old (dark) fluid can sometimes act like there's air in the lines too because it has too much water absorbed in it (what turns it dark). Lots of things to try but short answer is you still have air in there (or you could have a bad master cylinder; not likely unless it was *really* dirty fluid or was having problems before you did the brakes). Good luck and hope this helps.

You may need a new key, and have it programmed to the immobilizer.

Probably in valet mode. what brand/model alarm?

Radio codes are normally under the ash tray or in the owners manual. If not found there its under the radio.

THE LIBRARY OR AUTOZONE.COM!!

CHECK FOR THE FUEL PUMP RESET IN THE BACK OF THE CAR...LOOK FOR A HOLE YOU CAN STICK YOUR FINGER IN AND PUSH THE RESET ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAR!!

BEHIND THE GRILL IS THE HORN, LOOKS LIKE A SNAIL SHELL.REPLACE AND SPLICE WIRES!!

YOU CAN TRY...IF ITS THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE YOULL HAVE TO REPLACE THE LINE!!

Try this link see if he lo helps. http://m.wikihow.com/Reset-a-Factory-Car-Alarm