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How to remove maytag epic z drain pump
The first time I removed and cleaned out the filter pump on my Epic Z washer, there was a fabric sock over the pump filter cache for some reason. I don't see this mentioned anywhere and I can't imagine it's necessary. It seems to be a breeding ground for bacteria, mold etc. Has anyone else encountered this fabric over the pump filter?
Maytag washer will not start. After washing loads of Laundry minutes before.
No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
I have od on my control panel what does it mean
The OD "fault" code on the display means "OPENED DOOR". This does not mean the machine thinks the door is open, but it has not recognised that the door was opened prior to starting a wash cycle. This could be because you filled it, then turned it off before turning it back on to run the cycle. Often you can clear this "code" by simply opening and closing the door again and starting the wash cycle as normal. If this doesn't work then there may be a fault in the door lock switch or the control board.
Hope this helps.
Maytag washer not filling up
I had a Maytag centennial washer that would not fill up upon start,Got the sensing light on and nothing..It filled briefly then shut off.I put the machine into a diagnostic check and it did the test fine.I found videos on how to do that. pulled diagnostic codes after watching videos and even had a maytag tech come to the house and we both diagnosed the control board.However after replacing the control board i had the same problem.Sensing light on and nothing.If you have this issue i would check the water valve.This was my problem all along.How i figured it out was when the washer was fillling up i kinked the hoses by hand and no cold water was going through although it looked like it was with the hoses still connected to the valve from hot to cold on diagnostic run of the washer it would fill with hot water but no cold.I saw a lot of videos and they recommended making sure water is on and the screens the hoses connect to were clear.Also heard of making sure pressure coming out of hoses was good and you can check that by turning both hot and cold water off. disconnect hoses then turn the water back on one at a time into the drain hole or washer machine.You will know if pressure is good after turning water on this way hot and cold.Reconnect hoses and although pressure will be coming to the connection to the valve it wasn't filling with the cold water side of the water valve which is where both your hoses hook up too.You will have to remove the rear cover and the top of washer.Google videos to learn like i did on how to do these things.But my main point is i was very frustrated and didnt give up,Until i figured it out.Hope this helps someone cut to the chase of the problem,Im not the best story writer but i know how it can be when you need your washer.Good Luck.
Maytag bravos series 300 new belt won't fit
Did you buy it from Fixya dot com?
*series* 300, means there is more than one. You need to order by Model Number and sometimes serial number as well. Those details are on the specs label near the mains wire.
Return it and get the right one.
make model replacement belt.
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