Top 20 Summit FFBF245SS Stainless Steel 9.85 Cu Ft Refrigerator Bottom Freezer, Energy Star Questions & Answers


Google (summit)(CL66FDOS)(manual) without parens.

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FROM THE DEAD REFRIGERATOR STORE CALLED JUNK YARD

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The right setting depends on how many door openings the fridge sees in a day and how packed with food it is. If the fridge is warm, try increasing the thermostat slightly to a higher number. Come back 24 hrs later to see if it has gotten better, You may need to do this a few times. If you don't get any results, then it's possible the thermostat is faulty or the fridge has a leak in the cooling system.

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Hi, One of the most common problems with frost-free refrigerators (and often with upright frost-free freezers) is drain freeze up. This is usually caused by the defrost drain clogging, then freezing. On older units, it can also happen when the insulation (usually open-cell Styrofoam) around the drain gets 'water-logged', as it often does over the years, causing ice to build up inside the drain.
The first symptom, at least in top-freezers, is usually water under the crisper drawers, on the floor of the refrigerator section.
In side-by-sides and upright freezers it'll appear as a nifty slab of ice on the freezer floor, eventually running water out onto the kitchen floor.

These are quick and easy to make. Just cut a piece of #12 copper wire (strip from regular 12-2WG 'Romex' household wire) about 6 inches long and bend it around a 1/4 inch round rod. A screwdriver shaft works well for this, but any 1/4 inch dia. piece of metal will do.
Now when your refrig or freezer drain clogs and you find the trough under the evaporator full of ice, here's what you do.
Clear the
ice, open the drain (use hot water in your one gallon pressure sprayer and a wet-vac, and hang this little piece of copper on the defrost heater, so it extends down the drain. On most units, this is a black rod under the evaporator coil. Some use a radiant heater inside a glass tube, with which you can use this method, but you must carefully bend the hook on your copper wire to the diameter of the glass, being sure it puts no pressure on the glass.
This heater is responsible for melting all that frost that we don't have to deal with since the advent of Frost-free units, and it glows a dull red during the defrost cycle, so there's plenty of excess heat for our purpose.
Anyway, since copper's such a good conductor of heat, some of the defrost heater's energy will transfer down the copper wire, into the drain, and keep it open. What I like to call 'stupidly simple', this uses no extra electricity and works extremely well!
One precaution: hang this piece of copper *loosely* over the defrost heater. Don't squeeze or crimp it on, or you risk causing a "hot spot", damaging the heater.
Note: I get a lot of questions as to whether this wire will melt the rubber drain grommet or plastic drain tubing. I've installed literally hundreds of these wires (wish I'd kept count!) and have never seen any damage caused to those areas.
Keep in mind that when the unit switches into defrost, the inside of the freezer is at or below zero. Most defrost cycles last 20 minutes max, with the heater shutting down before the cycle
ends, so the warmth that travels down this little copper wire isn't nearly intense enough to melt anything but ice.

Hope this makes sense! Good luck
David

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water vapour in the bag, turns to condensate when the temperature drops, and then it freezes. You can avoid it by using a vacuum packing Food-Saver machine. No problem though, just brush the ice off and carry on.

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It is supposed to. The iced water runs until the correct thickness is reached. Then the defrost cycle starts and the ice falls into the hopper. The process starts again and again until the hopper is full. Then the water stops running until ice is removed

Or

it's faulty.

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CALL A REPAIR SERVICE THEY ARE NOT DIYER FIXABLE

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my ice machine stops making ice a 60 minute timer pops up ...
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If it is a frost free freezer it could be the thermostat has a fault that has left the defrost heating panel switched on.

If the freezer is otherwise working correctly the refrigeration system will be trying to remove the heat from inside to the outside and so the compressor will be running continuously and the condenser will be quite hot.
If the condenser isn't hot it is likely the compressor is broken or the refrigerant has escaped...

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Whenever the microswitch is faulty and not activated with door closing such thing might happen. One can get the switch replaced.

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Localised ice buildup often signals a localised insulation breakdown and the proof will be a cold spot on the outside of the cabinet.

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