20 Most Recent Toshiba 57HX83 57" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television Questions & Answers

With the back off you should be able to see the three large round lens this set should have---black cylinders with a glass lens--if real dirty they can cause picture to look darker and dull---I presume same with DVD player etc connected to rear input.the lens point up so get dusty, the mirror points down at a angle and rarely needs cleaning.

Pardon me but do you mean the screen has spider web looking patterns all over it? Or are you saying that spiders have crawled into your set and spun webs to catch flies?

If you have a spider web pattern problem then something has impacted your television screen and it is broken. You can check and see if your homeowner's insurance covers this, contact a service provider to see if they want to buy the television for its parts, and contact Mitsubishi to see if they offer a discount or pro rated rate on a new or refurbished television for when things like this happen.

If the problem is that you have spiders in your television I do not recommend vacuuming it out. I have seen people's televisions go out after they attempt to remove dust and webs that way. In this instance I also recommend contacting a servicer and the manufacturer.

Its sounds like you have Poor Solder connections and the Power Supply/deflection board needs to be resoldered. This should Fix the Problem. Resolder all 3 Convergence Yoke plugins and around FBT flyback Transfomer all the Pinns.

You need a HD cable box or go Satellite. That is a monitor set with NO tuner. FYI, the older sets that say HD Ready means No tuner. Salesman jumped all over that one when it came out. They would say Yep! it's HD ready and then jump into all the features to side track the customer, it was terrible.

convergence repair needed

that is a good idea, but expensive.

if the screen is that bad, you may want to try with some commercial available polish for glass or plastic, like plast-x. you can get that in any auto parts store or your local walmart...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l72/NoTwilight/temp/PlastX.jpg

Hi,
This distorted/ wavy picture is due to leaky/ weak electrolytic capacitors in Hyper Module in main board, replace all capacitors in Hyper Module to get it fixed.
Please note, capacitors replacement requires fair soldering skills with proper tools and I would recommend qualified tech to do so because novice can damage it as Hyper board is bit costly part, approx $350 and available in Part Store and capacitors replacement would not cost you much.
Let me know if you have additional question.
Thanks.

the convergence in any tv is as this analogy:
a pencil, a hand and the brain.
i would say the pencil is the joke and the ic (convergence amplifier) together.
the hand is a copy of a program that always do the same.

and the brain has an original program plus the eeprom to help him.

and what ?(maybe you can say)

• dont worry about the brain first.
• repair the conergence (three rectangules in the screen ***maybe not matching*** red blue and green) but perfect rectangule

Pencil:
To make this in your tv maybe you have +/-20 v maybe missed. the IC convergence amplifier damage. all resistors o some burn or different value or need new amplifiers. fixing this you get your rectangule.
Hand:
is easy to know in the copy of the program is corrupted first because the screens are miss matching that make some areas look as colored color Shadows but at least you can adjust up down east west each color in any point with the simple users menu. (you dont save in memory but your tv now looks now good adjusting here. but next day: bye bye adjustment.
the brain.
if your tv need this kind of solution. you need first to know how to navigate inside the manufacure native program. and second this kind of repair is so critical that you need to buy the parts that maybe have not program at all. and you need to download that with manufacture original program and make sure your program corresponds with the version of that particular tv (dont worry most of the time the program it shields perfect so most of the time you dont lost it, (but the don't even thing to start to dig in that area, better take it easy and resolve it in the other steps). good luck!

Could your problem be convergence and not focus?
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=564268&postcount=220
http://cmpalmer.blogspot.com/2006/11/fixing-my-own-tv-part-ii.html

HI-

on the remote, is there a button that will let you change the option or set it to video? Try unplugging the cable as well and try different ports from the back till you get the video. you will have to video source cable and plug it to other available ones. try using a different cable as well if you have spare.

Hope this helps

when you say flash and went black do you meen after you turned it on it turned off does it do this every time you turn it on? or does it not come on at all

are you talking about the plexiglass glare screen?...or something else?...
i was trying to find this out in your previous post about this set...

Heres a text i found that should be usefull...

Originally Posted by WaltA Do you have any instructions on how you got each piece off? I mean, where the clips or screws were located, and which held on which piece? ,

Walt, good to hear from you again. You helped me out quite a bit getting familiar with this set when i first purchased it. If i remember correctly you have the 46HX83.
Should be the same deal then. Speaker panel just pulls off. I started at one side on top and get that clip loose 1st, then the bottom one on the same side, then the other side top and bottom and then the middle. This exposes the silver fascia behind the speaker grill. I believe there were 8 screws total holding this on, 2 above and below each speaker. These are torx(sp?) head screws, i don't know what # they are, but fairly small. All screws by the way, that go into wood on this set are the same size torx screw. All other screws that go into plastic are the same size screw only with a 1/4" hex head and phillips. After the bottom silver fascia is removed you can get to the screws holding the panels between the screen and the speaker section. The panel that has the drop down door with controls and the power button has 2 or 3 screws holding it in. They are all along the bottom of the panel. It has wires running into it obviously and not alot of slack. However, it doesn't weigh very much so i just rested it against the set. I did not disconnect these wires as you can see in the pics. The other panel is just for looks. Same deal here, 3 screws at the bottom(there are alot more mounting holes on all parts mentioned so far but not all of them had screws in them, so yours may have more or less screws to remove). NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT, there is a small piece of MDF type board right behind these 2 panels, it's about 1" tall and the same thickness by about 18" or so long. When removing the screws holding in these 2 panels that board is very loose (it actually comes out, and i took it out until i was done)and could fall out on its own, so i would remove it and set it aside. Now all that's left is removing the screws holding the screen in place. All the silver fascia around the screen and what's available to see from the front below the screen is all one piece. I removed the ones in front 1st, then the sides from behind the screen then the top ones from behind the screen. THIS IS IMPORTANT AS WELL. There is a wiring harness attached to the screen from the set. My harness is visible in the pics. The wires are red and the harness(plastic) is white. This needs to be disconnected to be able to get the screen off the set to store while you are working on your set. I was able to disconnect mine before removing the screen however there was a type of wire loom or holder that had to be opened to get the loose end out of the way. Would be a good idea to have another set of hands around for this part(i used my wife, yes, it was that simple).
We each grabbed an end of the screen and carried it over to a spot on the floor where i had laid a clean sheet down.Well, that's it for the screen removal, goes back together in the reverse order i just explained of course. And keep in mind that this is a do at your own risk project. I can't be held responsible for anyone's set but my own,but in saying that, it really wasnt that hard to do.
I did not restack my screens or remove the glare screen as i have total light control in this room. I only wiped the back of the screen off with a microfiber cloth, same type i use on the shiny front side. I'll post more about the focusing and cleaning either today or tomorrow, i've got a few things to get done here, hope this helps you guys out .

edit: In looking at my pictures again,you can see that MDF mentioned right below the 2 cpanels between the screen and speaker section. It actually comes loose when you remove the screws on the silver fascia at bottom of screen. Sorry about that.

and here's the link to the page it came from, with pics of the cleaning of the lenses and such:

_______http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=425650&page=60___________