Toshiba 36A50 36" TV - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

On this particular model there is one capacitor from the video process IC (jungle IC) that supplies the Vertical pulse that shoul be changed.
This is an easy repair if you've ever soldered and would not be too costly for a repair shop to do it for you. The problem is a bad Vertical Output IC (usually mounted on an aluminum heat sink with the part on it labeled LA78?? ) and 1 or 2 bad capacitors. Some times you can even fix the problem by re-soldering the contacts of the IC- To find the IC follow the 4 wires that come from the Yoke (which is a contained coil of wires slipped over the neck of the picture tube(s)) back to the board. 2 of the wires go to the horizontal o/p and 2 to the Vertical o/p the thinner gauge wires are for the vertical. Be sure to vote/rate me if this helped Thanks!

This is an easy repair if you've ever soldered and would not be too costly for a repair shop to do it for you. The problem is a bad Vertical Output IC (usually mounted on an aluminum heat sink with the part on it labeled LA78?? ) and 1 or 2 bad capacitors. Some times you can even fix the problem by re-soldering the contacts of the IC- To find the IC follow the 4 wires that come from the Yoke (which is a contained coil of wires slipped over the neck of the picture tube(s)) back to the board. 2 of the wires go to the horizontal o/p and 2 to the Vertical o/p the thinner gauge wires are for the vertical. Be sure to vote/rate me if this helped Thanks!

Ur high Voltage is dead,the FBT,the flyback transformer,the big black block of plastic with a red wire a hook to the CRT(tv tube ).

This is an easy repair if you've ever soldered and would not be too costly for a repair shop to do it for you. The problem is a bad Vertical Output IC (usually mounted on an aluminum heat sink with the part on it labeled LA78?? ) and 1 or 2 bad capacitors. Some times you can even fix the problem by re-soldering the contacts of the IC- To find the IC follow the 4 wires that come from the Yoke (which is a contained coil of wires slipped over the neck of the picture tube(s)) back to the board. 2 of the wires go to the horizontal o/p and 2 to the Vertical o/p the thinner gauge wires are for the vertical.

You had parts in the vertical deflection circuit failing, most common are the vertical output IC and possibly several capacitors also in the same circuit.

I have same issue changed the HDMI cable and it get fixed

Yes,not more than $150 dollars ok,not worth repairing CRT tube tv more than that.Take to the shop get the estemate.

i dont think so
how the lines are?
horizontal or vertical?

yo pandac is it a universal remote?

Some el.components are loose on tv circuit board.I have removed the back cover,supported tv picture tube 45 deg.against wall.This tv is heavy!One screw on left holds the circuit board to bottom case.Removed and supported this board on few heavy books.Turned tv on and gently probed all the componets on top of the board with plastic drinking straw.In my case transistors Q-830 and Q-421 needed resolder loose joints.These components are mounted on flat aluminium heat sink strips located sligtly left of center of the circuit board.Also blobed bit of silicone into base hole and foot of alu.heat sink to support it.

My Toshiba 36A50 had the same issue. The picture would gradually shrink until it no longer appeared and there was only a thin line running from left-to-right across the center of the screen. The volume still worked perfect.

From information I gleaned from this site and others, I removed the main circuit board and flipped it over to re-solder the pins going to the Vertical IC (TA8427K). This IC is right about center of the board mounted on an aluminum heatsink so it is soldered in vertically. You can easily see the part number on the IC and it is the only one of that part number. Additionally, the silk-screen on the PC board has a QC301 next to it identifying the part.

After I re-soldered it, the TV works excellent. I just did this yesterday afternoon 10.26.08.

Thinks to note that have been pointed out by others:

1. There is high voltage in the TV even after the power is removed. There are several sites where they tell you how to remove the power.
2. Make a note of all connections. Most of the connectors are keyed to go in only one way but some you can turn the connector either way. Write down all the information and take some digital pictures before you disconnect everything.
3. As was pointed out but other people, the Vertical IC and/or some of the surrounding capacitors may be defective and need replacement. Its possible that your local Radio Shack may have what you need but I would not count on it. A possible source for parts is www.digikey.com.

Sounds like vertical deflection circuit problem. Could be as simple as a bad solder joint around a heavy component such as a transformer, a bad capacitor, overheated resistor, bad IC or transistor, or combination of these. Repair would require knowledge and experience.

you could read the oweners manual it will tell you how to do this. Go in the menu and find auto search then hit search or ok or what ever it tells u to do.

If flexing the board will "fix" the problem, then the most likely issue is poor solder connections on that board. Look for any connections that appear grainy or have rings and resolder them. The IC involved here is the vertical IC which will be a small flat IC attached to a heatsink. It may be marked LA7837 or something similar and have about 9-11 pins.

Try the resoldering and update this with your results.

Dan

vertical section is failing probably a bad ic or open resistor

need to turn off close captson off hope i speled that right.

This is usually due to bad solder connections to the vertical output integrated circuit. Because the part gets pretty hot during operation, the connections can degrade over time and cause the loss of picture. The solution is to resolder those connections. It's an easy job if you have some experience with electronic soldering. The hardest part, especially in a big set like yours, is getting the circuit board out and flipped over to access the solder side. Also, some parts in a TV can store possibly lethal charges even after it's been off for a while.

If you want to try it yourself, the output IC is mounted on a metal heatsink near the middle of the circuit board. I haven't faced one of these in a while but I think the part location marked on the board for this is IC401. Resolder the connections to the pins of this part and it should restore your picture.

If you have some doubts about trying this yourself, you might consider calling a servicer in your area and get an estimate for a repair call. The shop I used to work for charged around $90 for this kind of job, including the trip charge, but this is a number of years ago.

find your remote instuctions and it will say in them. dont follow the tv stuff.

skate,

are you reffering to a game console connecting direct to a TV screen?

1st try to check if your TV screen have a terminal jack indicating "A/V INPUT" A/V stands for Audio/video. if the screen doesn't have this, you'll be needing A/V to RF converter

2nd if your screen does have a terminal jack indicating A/V INPUT the next step you need to do is: check your game consul cable it should have a 3 RCA cable having RED/WHITE and yellow marking.

RED and WHITE cable marking stands for "AUDIO"
YELLOW cable marking stannds for "VIDEO"

connect this cable to A/V input of your screen following the color code ( yellow to yello/ red to red/ white to white) then from the screen press a button indicating "A/V" or "INPUT"

cheers,
mark

no rocket science here - my son fiddled with the cable cord attachment, until presto, the screen became sharp. Then we moved away as fast as possible, lest we shifted it and it put us back at square one.!!