JVC RX-554V Receiver - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Yes, this output on this receiver is at line level, (.775 MV) Or better known as 0 db level. You will need a powered subwoofer to get the bass to work. If you need an owners manual, you can get one here: http://books.jvcservice.com/download/256239653/17839.pdf Good Luck

On the newer receivers that's all its supposed to do (i.e. no internal stop). If you spin it too fast it won't be able to adjust and it will do nothing. Spin it slowly for it to work properly.

try 80331

Remotecontrol.com is a good source. Also JVC

Remotecontrol.com is a good source. Or JVC

This all depends on the computer your trying to hook up to it... If you have a standard audio jack (such as headphones) you will need a Y adapter to 2 (red and white) audio plugs.

Here is a link to that receiver. Enjoy!http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/00/96/LET0117-001B.pdf

Mute Auto is for FM only. It mutes interstation hiss while tuning. Look for some other indicator that might reveal why the signal path is failing. Tape?

Have you tried the basics? Speaker test? FM only?

From the remote control only: Press MUTING to turn off the sound through all speakers and headphones connected. "MUTE" appears on the display and the volume turns off. To restore the sound, press MUTING again. Turning MASTER VOLUME or pressing VOLUME +/- also restores the sound.

Web search "JVC RX-554V manual". Then do the same for your unnamed speakers.

Page 12 of the manual... Press the MUTE button on the Remote to toggle the status - OR touch the MASTER VOLUME control on the unit.

They're passive speakers and the sub jack only puts out LFE Line Level. It's to drive an amp that drives a sub. Besides, it's a car speaker and needs an enclosure to separate the forward sound pressure from the rear sound pressure or it will partially cancel itself out.

"Overboard"?

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Eure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

Check the rear panel for any loose connections, paying special attention to the speaker terminals. If you are using speaker wire without connectors, make sure that you have no stray strands of wire protruding outside the terminals or any broken strands.

Strand wire over time oxidizes and becomes brittle and easy to break so at any time the unit was moved while connected or anything else that would create tension on your connections it could easily break some wiring.

Also check the opposite ends of all of your connections at the speakers and input devices, i.e; DVD player, television etc.

Go to http://www.retrevo.com/support/JVC-RX-554RBK-Receivers-manual/id/315ag016/t/2/ and download the manual.

Hope this helps

Go to http://www.retrevo.com/support/JVC-RX-554RBK-Receivers-manual/id/315ag016/t/2/

and move down to RX-554RBK. The BK is for black.

Hope this helps...

This model had lots of problems with bad solder connections! Check for most of them in the power supply and/or amps. Or take to a good shop!

Well... It consumes 240 watts of electrical power total so take the audio power specifications with a huge grain of salt, as no audio device puts out in audio power anywhere near what it consumes in electrical power. Heat produced is power consumed, too and nothing is 100% efficient.

In the specs below the only information useful for comparison is in the line I highlighted with >>> <<<<'s as it conforms the closest to the industry standard practice of using:

"X watts into 8 ohms (standard load) from 20 - 20000 hz plus or minus Y db at no more than .0Z% distortion"

The better amps specify vanishingly low distortion specs (0.0x% vs 0.x%) at the cost of being able to claim higher wattage. But they guarantee cleaner sound at the claimed levels.

JVC is being tricky with their choice of a 40 hz lower limit. THAT is the power hungry end of the spectrum. 20 hz is normally the lower limit stated.

"Output Power .............At Stereo operation
Front channels .............55 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 4 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.9 % total harmonic distortion. (IEC268-3/DIN) 30 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.9 % total harmonic distortion. (IEC268-3/DIN)

>>>>> 30 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms, 40 Hz to 20 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion. <<<<<

At Surround operation
Front channels .............50 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion.

Center channel .............50 watts, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion.

Rear channel .................50 watts, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion."

Yes you can modify RCA cables to make bare wire tails.
If the unit has a sub o/p then you just connect up your sub bass unit to whatever the amp needs.

An RCA cable is 2 wire which is all you would normally need for sub bass speaker level signal.
It may be a good idea to eventually upgrade the wire size if you want really good sub bass as lower frequencies draw more current and so require more copper.

Please let me know if this any help, thanks for using FixYa.

Usually, a subwoofer will have its own built-in power amplifier. Thus, it will be designed to plug into a standard RCA jack (the type used for DVD players, etc). rather than having wires to connect to a speaker terminal block. Look for a jack on the back of the receiver called "Subwoofer", or simply "SW". If your subwoofer has 2 single wires, it WON'T work with your reveiver's subwoofer output, as this output only carries a line-level signal and is not amplified. You would need a separate power amplifier for this type of SW. If your SW speaker has a DVD-type plug, it should work fine with the receiver's SW output jack.