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Marantz PM-68 Amplifier Questions & Answers
Marantz PM-48 connecting to TV
look on the back of the TV and there should be L/R audio outputs (white & red), connect this to a spare input of your amp via a connecting lead eg. AUX or any other input except PHONO.
hope this helps.
RIGHT HAND SPEAKER WONT WORK
If you get scratchy sounds while doing so, the potentiometer needs replacing. If not you could check the solder joints for it and see if its loose. You could just resolder it if that's the case.
i have a marantz pm-47
Make sure that the fuse is the same rating with the old one.
If still symptom persist, I've suspected that your output IC is shorted.
You may hang this IC, then power up the unit.
Observe what will happen, if this cure the symptom then this is a clear indication that this IC is shorted and made the fuse blown while it is in the circuit board.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.
Is it possible change the
The easiest thing to do would be to put high wattage level controls at your speakers
Parts express sell them and MCM electronics
Static and popping from left channel with marantz 2215B receiver
The actuall solution is deoxidizing the controls but since you have tried that, take some of these suggestion
DeoxIT D100L in a 59ml bottle (part # D100L-2 this gives you a %100 solution and just a drop is all you need). It has a a small bottle with a 3" needle tip that can be used to apply the D100L solution. You can also use a small art brush. A little bit goes a long ways, so the bottle will last for a long time.
The spay can is a dilute solution and does not cut the oxidation as well, but it can "flush" a contact and reach places that can't be directly accessed. Sometimes drop of %100 solution in the control and then give just a small (very small) shot or D5 from the can. This will wash the high concention solution through the control.
once applied you will need to work the control 100 -200 times. A second application can be applied... but remember, a little bit gose a loooong way.
DeoxIT®, #D100L-25C would be great... has the needle applicator.
DeoxIT®, #D5S-6 is a can of 5% solution
IF YOU STILL HEAR NOISE AFTER CLEANING
Once you have cleaned the controls and if the problem still persists, it could be a cold solder joint. Use a non-conducting soldering probe and gently flex the boards and if you can get locate the source of the cutout, reflow everything around there.
Please leave me comment,if you need further assistance
Your no doubt finding the speaker safety/turn on surge protect relay NOT engaging a few seconds after turning it on-right? Check the output transistors. These are the big green and black ones screwed to the heatsink. You gain access to them by taking off the bottom cover. There's 4 per channel--2 green and 2 black. You'll probably find one or more of them shorted. If you find replacements, put them in exactly as the originals with new thermal grease/heatsink compound. Unsolder and lift the center pin (collector) on each of the four transistors of the effected channel. Power it up and check across the outside pins of each device for proper bias-about a half a volt or so on each one. If the voltage is much higher, or not there you've got other problems that will require more diagnostic/troubleshooting. Do all the lights on the front panel work-or just the tape monitor indicators? If just the tape monitors light up, check resistors RN83 and RN84 on main board under the speaker connector board-remove the speaker connector board to get at them. These are bad on mine and I've yet to replace them. I believe these to be 920 ohm 1% precision resistors....
Hi there, be sure that you have reconnected the jumpers from pre am out to power amp inm opn the rear of the unit. You will get very little of anything if you leave these jumpers out. Also check that you have not inadvertantly turned on the taoe monitor. Give the switch a few operations to check that it isnrt playing up also.
If you are still having problems, feel free to get back to me here and we can sort this out for you.
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