20 Most Recent Simmons SD9K Electronic Drum Set Questions & Answers

I fixed mine it had the same issue bye opening it up by taking the screws out and carefully open it up and look for any corrosion or buildup on the circuit board then take a q-tip and dip it into isopropyl alcohol rubbing alcohol and just clean up any corrosion on the boards then look for the ribbon cable connection that is connected to the display try pushing the connector in to make sure it's firmly set in there on both ends of it and put it back together. I don't know what caused the screen to not display the actual text because I bought it used at a swap meet but I tried this and it worked.

The hum is likely to be the sound of the ac mains electricity, either because the power supply smoothing has become ineffective in the amplifier or one or more of the audio peripherals or because the audio connections to the input of the amplifier have created a hum loop that is picking up the radiated energy from the mains supply and feeding it into the audio input. Multiple grounding is often the reason for a hum loop. This is where an audio peripheral is not only grounded through the supply cable but is also grounded through the screened audio lead. If the hum persists when there is no inputs connected the problem is almost certainly power supply related, otherwise it is likely to be a peripheral that has a faulty power supply or the culprit is a hum loop. Hi-fi officianados have a number of tricks to deal with hum loops and google could lead you to these. Grounding is an important safety consideration so appliances that are intended to be grounded must continue to be grounded but the loop could be broken by using special audio leads. The usual lead would use the screening as a conductor and so the screen must be connected both to the peripheral and to the amplifier. A better lead uses an extra core conductor and the screen then becomes just a screen and is grounded only at the amplifier end and is not connected to the peripheral. I hope this helps.

The display is usually held against the circuit board with 2 or more strips of multiconductor rubber. it may just need the clamping tabs tweeked to make a more secure contact. If the drum set fell, it could have shifted the circuit board in relation to the display. Parience and careful observation will allow you open it up and make that tweek.

With the sensitivity set very high, you might be getting false triggers from static discharges. It sounds like your snare trigger is either bad or possibly the cable from it may have a problem as you should NOT have to set the sensitivity so high.
It will take an oscilloscope to test the pad unless you can find a system to do a sensitivity comparision. The second problem regarding the recording/overdubs I cannot help you solve.

I found this. It appears to have a motherboard battery that saves settings once powered down.

My SD9K brain module forgets/randomly changes the settings of the custom kits I create. Possibly an issue with the internal battery? If so, what type of battery is this and are they available?

Yes you would need to replace the CMOS button battery on the main board of the system. And also this You either have to hook your computer up to it or use the SD card or usb disk. You must leave it plugged into your computer to use the midi feature. You also must have a program that does midi. Or put it on a card or usb and use it that way. You must have it plugged in to the computer, card or usb to use it. You cannot save it to the brain. https://www.google.com/search?q=Simmons+SD9K+will+not+save+my+drum+settings ..

Go to mouser.com an search for the LED that you are looking for. Color, diameter, clear, etc and you should have enough info to find something close to what you are looking for. The brightness and color may be a little off from the original but most will work. Note: If it has wire leads it is "through hole"(search in mouser for standard LED - through hole) Good luck!

The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.

'pianoforte'

BREV. N. 838420

See page 22 troubleshooting of this manual. It may help you. dd501 (yamaha.com)