20 Most Recent Rockford Fosgate P3001 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 3 Questions & Answers

plug your ground, battery, and remote wires only and see if it turns on when you turn your radio on, if not it must have blown. wiggle or move the connection block(where your wires are connected) and see if it tries to turn on. if so, your leads need to be re-soldered since they tend to go cold(they're not making good contact). But again, if that does not help, then your amp is gone.

if amp is mounted to back of the box try and move to in front of box near subs or port. the air movement of the sub will help keep the amp cooled. or you can orer some 12v cooling fans and take back plate of the amp and cool it that way. or you can buy higher quality audio, your choice

make sure the ground is good and also make sure there is power at the remote turn on lead

flip the amp smell the vents if it smells like a blow dryer or just something awful its burnt up agin check connections on the battery if all els fails take a short wire and touch it (A) on the positive wire from the battery (B) to the remote wire do this all on the amp it should come on if so your remote wire is bad or has lost connection

Could you elaborate on how the speaker is bridged?

I think you want to hook up a single speaker to a stereo speaker output.

In this case, you would strap (bridge?) the right and left speaker terminals by running a short wire from A right negative to A left negative. Then strap A right positive to A left positive -- this will give you mono output on either of the right or left speaker terminals -- connect your speaker to either one of these.

Do you know what the ohm rating is for the speaker outs on the amp and also the speaker itself?

Charlie

It all depends on the type of music you listen to. I fyou listen to music that consistently produce low frequency sound then you would want to enhance those frequencies with an EQ and reject unwanted tones with your crossover network. It is all personal preference though. If you think it already sounds good then why mess with it.

REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL BLOWS THE FUSE, THEN IT WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. IF IT BLOWS THE FUSE BEFORE TURNING IT ON, THEN YOUR PROBLEM IS IN THE POWER SUPPLY SECTION. IF IT BLOWS THE FUSE AFTER ATTEMPTING TO TURN IT ON, THEN YOUR PROBLEM IS PROBABLY IN THE OUTPUT SECTION. ALSO KEEP IN MIND THAT THE P1'S ARE REALLY NOT RATED FOR THAT MUCH POWER AND YOU MAY HAVE DAMAGED THE VOICECOILS. BEFORE REINSTALLING THE AMPLIFIER, MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE SPEAKERS FOR SHORTED VOICECOILS OR YOU WILL POSSIBLY DAMAGE THE AMPLIFIER AGAIN. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V

bad connection check spk wiring and rca out behind radio make sure connection is rite

check and make sure all powers (12v) and remote ground are were they should be then check signal outputs is in the right spot comeing from (THE Radio) to THE AMP imputs.THEN CHECK ALL OF THEM AGAIN. if thats not it you will have to bring it to someone like me and be charged around $30 an hour to fix.

peel the cover completely off the amp and give it some power- if the amp is blown there will be a tiny light lit up on the circiut board that quite simply says "SHORT"-If its blown then theres nothing you can do unless you are a badass of course- but if the amp is dear to you and you want to spend a little money on it to get it up and running again- go to rockfords website and get into the forums and ask the question-where do i get my fosgate fixed and it will pull up some mumbo jumbo but it tells you about a place called LANDIS TECHNICAL that bought up all the parts to their amps and is in the business of restoring the amplifiers to their factory specs and even sends you a new power certificate to go with your new and improved amp.hope that helps you-

The best way to set up an amp is to start with everything on 0 Turn your gain all the way off, then turn the stereo up as loud as u would normally listen to it. With the stereo on, slowly turn the gain up until it sounds the way you want it. As for the Hz settings, for a sub you should have the crossover set to lpf, and the z knob adjusts what frequency your sub will play. Since you have a 10" sub, I wouldn't put it much below 125, because tens can't produce ultra low bass and it could damage the sub. Hope his helps :)

you have you gain and freq knobs turned up too far, try turning them down and turn down subb level from deck

Here's a few things I would check:

1. Does the vehicle run ok? No issues starting or dimming of the headlights? It's possible your battery is the issue.
2. If the battery is fine, check all of the power connections (including the ground lead of the amp) between the battery and the amp are tight and not corroded.
3. What gauge of wire is used to connect power and ground to the amp? If it's less than 10 gauge, it may be too small.

bridge the amp

SAND THE PAINT AWAY FROM WHERE EVER THE GROUND WIRE IS TOUCHING THE BODY OF THE CAR. ALSO CHECK UR REMOTE WIRE ON THE AMP. IF THERE IS NO REMOTE WIRE ON STEREO THEN JUST RUN THE REMOTE WIRE FROM AMP TO THE POWER ON THE AMP

Then it's a bad ground. Where did you ground the ground cable to? Is it tight, free of rust, clean, and most importanly, bare metal and free of paint?

The person(s) who hooked up your system made a boo boo. They wired your remote turn on lead to the power antenna lead instead of the amp turn on line (both are blue and easy to mix up). Thus when your radio is on it sends a signal to the amp and the amp turns on, but when you set to CD the signal goes away and your amp shuts down. Easy fix, just re-wire the amp turn on lead and the problem will be fixed.

The remote wire is probably hooked up to the illumination wire or the dimmer wire. One or both of those can be found behind the factory stereo. No big deal. Unhook that and find a 12v positive accessory wire. It will turn on and off with the key and the key only.

all the p series amps were discontinued for similar problems, they have a newer model out now. they have very weak boards internally and failed faster when mounted to the sub enclosure or very close to it from subsonic vibration. i would guess the amp is toasted.