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Questions & Answers
I have a A&H GL2400
Is this for live sound? You can use your aux outputs as sends if you're not using them for monitors and return to spare channels. If any units are being used for only one channel, either run them in-line (use the effect unit's wet/dry settings) or use the channel's direct out and return to a spare channel.
If one effect is applied to several channels you could put those into a sub group, take that sub output to the unit and return the 100% wet mix to a spare channel.
Be careful not to send the return channels back to any auxiliaries you're using for effects.
Allen & Heath...
on Jun 19, 2011
The internal fan has been
Hey tifly415, did you ever fix this problem? My church has the same mixer and last night it did the same thing twice during a congregational meeting. No fan noise, but the meters all peg and we get this horrible descending squeal which gets louder as you pull the faders back in a moment of sheer terror and panic. Power it off and back on and it's ok for a while then it happens again. It's happened to me a few times during rehearsals in the past and it definitely is not mic feedback because no one was near the console or doing anything at the time. It seems to be totally random and unpredictable.
I, too, suspect a power supply problem, but it never seems to happen when my troubleshooting gear is nearby. The only thing unusual yesterday was that the mixer was left on almost all day, so it may have been warmer than usual.
Anyone else have the same problem, or better yet, know of a solution?
Allen & Heath...
on Jun 08, 2011
There can be any number of reasons for this problem - solve it diagnostically by starting with something that you know is working and work through systematically to the other end.
- Test a microphone on a separate amp to make sure it works okay. Check amp and speakers working. Check that all output cables from mixer to amp are working by testing separately.
- Plug microphone into a channel on mixer. Also plug in headphones and turn headphone volume control up.
- Make sure input sensitivity knob is turned up a bit (say half way) and main output faders (yellow) are up.
- Check that channel is turned on (little button just above the channel fader- needs to be pressed down)
- press pfl (pre-fade listen) button (next to button to switch channel on)- do you get any sound on main output or headphones or any indicator lights on mixer to show signal is getting that far (eitehr the individual channel metering lights or the main ones in the central section)?
- turn off pfl - make sure channel fader (slider) is up - normal position is ) - about 3/4 of way up. Check lights again on individual channel and main output section - any signs?
- Is the sub mix button for the channel pressed down - in which case you will need to bring sub mix (red) output faders up as well as main faders.
- If you have got signs of signal on the individual channel but not main see if the channel has been routed somewhere odd (like a subgroup of channels).
- Plug a working amp and speakers into one of the auxiliary outputs and use the relevant auxiliary send knob (on each channel just above the faders and pfl switches) to pan some signal to that auxiliary out - do you get anything? There is also a headphone socket for listening to the auxiliary channels (with a selector switch /knob to determine which one - make sure it is in the right position) try listening to the auxiliary output with headphones - anything? If yes the problem lies in the main output section.
- Check that there is not a jack plug in the insert socket (to route signal through an external effects unit) without a matching return jack being plugged in - if appropriate is relevant effects unit switched on and correctly set up - if unsure remove the insert plug to take it out of the system.
- Make sure any mute buttons are not switched in on main outputs.
You can download a full user manual here
Allen & Heath...
on Feb 23, 2011
I was working at
cachepe.samedaymusic.com/.../gl2400ug_ap5597_2-42fad5e2de1bc79db38576be174464d4.pdf - United States
Above is your user manual below is a service and repair manual.
Indeed i would suspect something around your Final Output semiconductors, and any associated resistors?
You really must obtain a service manual, here there are the troubleshooting steps required to isolate and hopefully allow repair of your unit.
Look for any discolored components etc, check if any are overly hot... use a temperature probe on suspected components. Freeze spray may also be useful in diagnosis.
Use your eyes & nose to isolate the bad burnt overheated components, I sometimes use a straw up a nostril and selectively go over suspect parts, and "Sniff" to try and detect the overheated smell... it works.
Above is your tech support link, contact them for any info you require.
Allen & Heath...
on Nov 30, 2010
Zoom MRS 1608 will not power on
I suggest checking to make sure those 2 units can actually use the same adapter and also check the polarity on both to see if they are the same. Most stompbox stuff usually has negative on the center of the socket, instead of positive like other devices. If I spend a little time I could find the manuals and find out for myself but, this was my logical "top of my mind" kind of advice. Those values (volts,mA, and polarity) must be known in order to help you further. I believe it will be 9v, a few 100 mA's, and negative in the center on both but, not sure.
on Nov 25, 2020
Baldwin pianovelle ps2500 my piano turns on but speakers don't sound can someone give a hint to solve this problem
So I got a used one of these for free because it had the same issue.
I read about battery failure, so I opened up the piano and sure enough the battery had corroded. I also read that the battery is only necessary for the memory feature, which I don’t care too much about. I pulled out the board (super easy to do, no screws or anything, it just pops out) and took it a local electronics/tv repair guy. In about a half hour he took off the battery, fixed a bad trace on the board with a quick solder, and handed it back. $40.
Plugged it back in, bam works like a charm.
As long as there wasn’t too much damage from corrosion, a repair guy should easily be able to do what I described.
I hope this solves your (and anyone else’s) problem!
on Oct 06, 2020
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