Top 20 Zenith B32A24Z 32" TV Questions & Answers

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Hello friend try replacing the capacitors on the source and check if the flyback is not burned.

Its a major repair.Expected that the fuse is busted and others parts of pawer supply is deffective like the regulator transistor,diode,resistor and capacitor.If you try to replace all deffective parts,replace it with the same value of parts replacement.

With most tv's I've serviced, the cable connector is connected directly to the tuner module. The tuner module may be damaged beyond repair, depending upon how much physical force was applied to the cable connector. I would take it to a reputable repair shop and let them provide you a honest estimate of repair. They may be able to resolder the cable connector to the tuner module.

Yes...if you can remove the board from the TV safely. You will have to unsolder the tuner. Then remove the sides of the tuner to inspect the damage. You will need to replace the RF connector with an RCA part #215543. On another note, find an old TV repair shop and see if they can salvage a tuner from an identical TV. This is actually faster and easier to repair. Note this, just replace the tuner, not the main board. The salvaged unit may not be serviceable. Thanks for asking and show all hands of support!

I believe the TV may be at fault here. This aging TV has a vertical problem, The horizontal bans you describe are common on an aging Zenith TV. You need to find an electronic enthusiast to correct this. Tell them to resolder the vertical IC and replace those capacitors that are near and next to the vertical IC. And have them replace the capacitors in the power supply. They will include a 25 volt 100 MF cap and a 35 volt 22 Mf cap. These are located very near the STR 5041 regulator on a large heat sink. Have them replace the high voltage deflection cap that is about 200 volts at 1 Mf, near the flyback transformer. And on the other end of the board near two heat sinks (one of these is the vertical IC heat sink) there is a 25 volt 220 Mf cap that is dead by now. resolder any and all bad grounds. Please save this TV and give it the longevity it deserves. Thanks for asking and show a few hands of support.

First check that your interconnect cables are working properly. I have seen defective cables cause loss of video and or audio.

If the interconnects are okay, then it could be something defective with the connectors in the TV set. They could be cold solder on the circuit board where they are mounted, or defective.

At the next level, it is possible that the input processor circuit is at fault. This is not a very common fault, but it can happen. The defect can be in the controller circuit that is commanded by the micro-controller in the set, or it can be the input switching IC (device) itself, or some of its support components. At this level troubleshooting can get fairly involved to the point where it is beyond what an amateur can accomplish without the proper test setups, service information, and knowledge.

If your set requires extensive service, the cost will most likely not be worth the investment. At this point you would be best off to replace the set.

Jerry G.

I could not find a manual, but try this: connect live audio and video signals to input and surf down channels past ch. 2 to see if it goes to the video input.

check the fuse of the plug

This is the best solution for your problem as a 40 year experience with wires etc. Go to the source of your cable signal connector . Open it and clean the terminals with emery paper , sand the end of the cable shiny clean from corrosion , get a new barrel connectors with gold terminals if possible lengthen the ends of the cable , insert and tighten good, use thick rg-16 or rg 40 cable with good insulation ends crimped professionally with a crimpier or buy ready made , not from dollar store. Get a gold plated professional splitter if you need one or two , it will cost about 15 or more each . Make the cable runs as short as possible, using the thick good cables. If needed get a signal magnifier. From radio shack or the source etc. Connect them good and tight . Ground the splitters . Problem solved , you will get crystal clear channel 2 to 7 including 3 and 4 . Isolate the TV cable from other cables and power wires. Vitally

loose connect on power supl.

your crt socket problem change it but make sure it is same type it must be ok really

the best way is to do isolation method, first start with a power supply, check some semi conductors and diodes
secondly check the line transformer section.
just this two tests will make your tv work

if the set is over 2 years old it more than likely wont be a digital set. press the AV button that should switch you between digital and analogue if the set has digital in it

the problem is onthe power supply,
one of the semi- conductor is heating up

the power supply is faulty this section includes the following components
semi conductors, diodes, transistors, fuse, fusable resistors
if you dont know how to repair take it to a w/shop

horizontal lines across screen, audio okay.

I have an B36A24Z Zenith TV set Does this set have a digital
tuner?

The effect you described sounds a lot like a failed solder joint.

There are points on the circuit board that are subjected to heating and cooling each time the set is powered up, then down.
The solder joints near these areas can fail from metal fatigue as will any metal that is forced to expand and contract repeatedly.
These fractures are minute and can often only be seen under magnification.
Once found, they are simple to fix; removal of the old solder and resoldering will restore electrical contact in seconds.

If you can find a gray-haired tech nearby who is retired, maybe early since repair is a business stagnated by cheap labor in Asia, he/she will know where these areas are and can robably get rid of your lottery-like operation.
Or, if you have way too much time on your hands and are willing to buy a decent soldering iron and dig into the guts of your set, you can probably find the problem yourself.

While semiconductors do fail (sometimes for the same reason), since the set does sometimes restore itself, it isn't likely that any of those has died.

I would be torn to toss the set if it is otherwise OK for the simple reason that if repaired, it may outlast 80% of those bought in the last 2 years.
It is amazing the number of problems that are happening on new, sophisticated sets and it is traceable to lousy quality in parts and assembly.
I have one LCD set I will probably junk this year that is only 2 years old, flawed when I bought it new, and has a failure producing a vertical black stripe that would require replacment of the $4-500 panel.
Junk - Specifically, WALMART junk.