20 Most Recent Bose Acoustimass 15 System - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I will try as best I can... There is no light on the unit. There is a two position switch, that's your on/off switch located on the botttom of the unit next to the pwr cord input... When the straight lined side is pushed down the unit is energized. When you pwr up the unit you should hear a light bump, not a cracking noise. There is a fuse on the main input/output board that is pretty easy to pop and swap.

try a music specialty store or radio shack if you want to only replace the small speakers inside the cubes. If you want to replace the whole cube, there are others out there. Look on ebay and or amazon I think the brand is JA Audio. A knock off of the bose cubes that can be used as stand alone speakers without the module.

Probably not, but you can install a step-down transformer if there's room inside the unit. Since these speakers don't use much current, a small transformer will work. It doesn't have to be a 220-to-110 transformer either - any transformer designed to cut the voltage in half is fine. A 24 volt-to-12 volt transformer will also work.

greetings afibanez,
so far from the information gathered from you, it sounds as if the control knob mechanism in the unit itself is going out. the fact that it adjust on its own, and the humm indicated that the position sensor in the control knob is malfunctioning. If at all possible visit the manufacture's website and there should be a search bar once you have searched for and found your product, there will or should be a link to help you purchase parts and accessories for the unit. I hope that i have been helpful and this fixes your problem. any diagrams or instructions can be found on the manufacture's website. if you are still unable to complete/fix this problem with the information available or that i have provided let me know and we can take further action at that time. but my main suggestion is to replace the internal working component of the control knob.

Thank you
Ryan

A low frequency hum will occur when the wire connections between components (speakers) are not clean, tight, and neat. It's easy to cross wire when things are not neat. It is also possible that any factory supplied cabling has a broken wire inside of it, causing the problem.

first lets check
no need to open any thing

1) just trace the wire of working channel and plug out that and connect to opposite side of that channel


for example: if front left is not working, remove pin of front right and plug it into front left

after that listen the sound if front left is working then no need to open amplifier just check the wires of satellite speaker which is not working

how to check broken wire:

1) just observe your speaker nearly if you found any screw holes open it, if u can not find any screw holes remove front net which is fitted by press lock or any stepped groove, you can remove that and if you are removing front net you have to open speaker from casing then after you can find speaker's wire shouldered or bolted to it just check wire and go on after that u'll be sure that weather your speaker is failed or wire!!!

enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(don't forget to rate)

Sounds like you may have a blown output transistor or chip, which generally show no external signs of damage. This would take an experienced technician to find and fix, and I commend you for knowing to check the speakers, receiver and cables through substitution! If you're handy with a soldering iron and can find the parts, try replacing the output transistors or chips in question. These are what usually fail in audio power amplifiers - also check any power resistors for opens - some of them are designed to act as fuses to protect the more expensive components.

Sounds like you have a problem in the circuits, which of course would take an experience technician to find and repair. But a 1994 electronic item has pretty much reached the end of its expected life cycle (sadly, compared to older equipment which is still working great). Basically, it sounds like the power amp circuit is shutting down a few seconds after startup. Might check to make sure no speakers or cables have shorts, which could activate a protection shutdown circuit. If any of the cubes don't hiss when you turn it on, that would be the first place to look for a problem.

Since a CD/DVD player is a digital device, it can be susceptible to such things as power line glitches, interference from other digital equipment and even the ignition interference from nearby passing cars. With older analog gear, you might get a short burst of static, whereas it can completely shut down a digital device sometimes (glitches interrupt its internal program). Sadly, there's nothing you can do about this except plugging the unit into a power line conditioner. You might try jiggling the connecting cables (especially the audio cable), but it sounds more like a random glitch since you can use your remote to fix it. They haven't yet worked out all the bugs in digital equipment, unfortunately. It's also possible that a defect in the DVD player was not caught at the factory during final test.

Hi Cassie, unless your receiver is a surround reciever, it won't have an actual subwoofer output. The good news is that you can use either a "line out" jack or a "tape out" jack instead, which most receivers do have. These jacks always have the signal, so there are no special settings to remember - simply operate your receiver as usual. Everything comes out of these jacks, not just the bass - but it won't matter since your subwoofer will only reproduce the bass frequencies. The bass information is generally identical in both left and right channels, so either the right or left jack should work fine, and it's okay to leave the other one unconnected. The only bad thing is the line and tape outputs are not affected by the receiver's bass and treble controls, so you'll have to control the bass volume at the subwoofer if it has a control. If you can't control the amount of bass you hear, turn up the volume and reduce the treble which will give the illusion of more bass. I'm assuming you have "powered" subwoofer (has its own built-in amplifier). Good luck!

The master on/off switch will usually be on the back (or maybe even the bottom) of the largest component, which contains the power and control circuits.

If the circuit board has a charred area, you have another problem besides the resistor. A short or overload likely caused the resistor to burn. Probably a blown output transistor(s) or chip(s), which generally short when they fail. This creates an overload in the circuit which burns up the load resistor - probably.

Of course it's worth it - just unsolder the old fuse and solder a new one in. But first make sure the fuse is really blown. Buy a cheap $10 ohmmeter and check it - a good fuse will make the meter respond, or make the ohmmeter beep. Note that a blown fuse might still make the ohmmeter respond, since other circuits connected to the fuse will affect the reading. So look for zero ohms. If you get like 5 or 10 ohms or more, the fuse is blown. It may not be the fuse, but this is the first step to find out. Best way to check fuses is to unsolder and lift one end, so that you're only reading the fuse.

Buy a soldering iron and go over all solder connections on the circuit board. Sounds like you have a cold or intermittent solder connection. Also make sure the problem isn't in the subwoofer cable. Don't be afraid to do a little soldering, and just make sure you don't create "bridges" between existing solder connection. Only heat the connections long enough to melt them and add a little solder, as excessive heat can destroy sensitive components. Before doing all this, remove and reinsert all related cables into their jacks several times, as these connections can become oxidized and make poor contact over time.

Well to be hones 85 sounds pretty loud to me, generally the bose acoustimass module shouldnt really be distorting or crackling unless under extremely high sound levels.

It could possibley be that the speaker cone in the bass module has a slight perforation so it would distort at high levels. However other problems could be loose connections inside the unt or outside the unit. If your friend doesnt have it above 85 under normal circumstances I wouldnt worry to much about it but if there is a tear in the cone the problem could get worse.

On the end opposite of the jacks (top of the sub opposite connectors) in the exact middle, there is a ratchet looking device (flashlight and magnifying glass reveal the little culprit) with a very small flat screw driver rotate the piece CCW until a small tab is protruding from the middle. Pu the palm of your hand on the plastic case and give it a small whack (in the direction of the jacks) it will move about a 1.2 inch. Lift straight up and the case will come off and reveal the connectors. Trust me, get a flashlight and magnifying glass and peer through the small crack between the cover and the box, you will see the little notch (encoder looking) rotating wheel

It is in the sub woofer unit on the main board. Getting the cover off is half the battle. Opposite the input output side directly in the middle of the case there is a little locking mechanism to get the cover off. Use a small flat screwdriver and rotate it CCW until the little tab pokes right out at you. Then pop it (in the direction of the input/output jacks. I twill move about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, then just lift staight up. You can see the fuse on the other side of the board of what you will be staring at when the cover is off. Good luck

i gave a very long and detailed response to this but i didnt submit it correctly so its gone now !
sorry about that,
bottom line was......, it is probably your audio source.
please try a different speaker or audio source .
watch out for air leaks and rattles putting the bassbox back togther. or it will sound rubbish .

YES - identical