Please
elaborate as it is not clear what exactly you want to do with the oven and post
back with the manufacturers name & model no for further assistance.
Try cycling the circuit breaker feed off for a few minutes to reset the control board. If the panel doesn't come back, then a service call is likely to be necessary. This type problem is NOT uncommon when self cleaning.
The KitchenAid ovens that I know will turn off when you press Off (unless the control lock is on - then you need to disable the control lock). The Warming Drawer will have a separate Off button. Dual oven units require you to select which oven and then press off.
Hello & Welcome to FixYa F2-E0 error code indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions. Kevin
Hi Error F2-E0 means a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the sensor is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue start by checking the oven temp. sensor for 1100 ohms, if the rating is more then that then check the control board and replace that if bad. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance. Daniel
Hello, welcome to FixYa. There is indeed a fuse/hi-limit located at the back, and the scenario you described is associated often with this after self cleaning...but you will need to remove the rear panel to access it and change it out. Unfortunately this requires removing the unit since it is built into the cabinet...unless there is access through the back of the cabinet built in as some folks have done foreseeing service issues when installed. **Make sure the breaker (main power-40amp circuit) is turned off before performing any repairs or attempting service...safety first** The other unfortunate issue with the thermostat/fuse/hi-limit safety...it is not a resettable type and will need to be replaced. You can confirm or dismiss if it is "open" (no good) either via an ohm meter checking for continuity or "jumping the stat out and checking for function. Be very careful if opting for the later since you will need to re-power the oven to check for operation after the stat is "jumped" This image indicates what you're looking for. Part #3149653 It is available at "repairclinic.com" as the image would indicate or "searspartsdirect.com" to name another. If this is something you think is not within' your scope of expertise please call a pro. I will try to help in any manner I can of course as well. Good luck. Thank you for choosing FixYa today. Please take a moment to rate the info I provided here for you and a brief testimony is appreciated.
check your oven tempreture sensor do an ohms test on it should be reading between 1000-1100 ohms also you can do an ampere reading on the ignitor itself should be drawing between 3-3.3 amps any less would constitute a weak ignitor and would also cause a similar issue but your unit is heating well past the amount that you are presetting I would check the oven tempreture sensor first and if it gives a low reading of below 1000 replace the sensor itself your unit is getting to hot at first which would lead me to the sensor first whereas with an ignitor being weak it would take longer to relight the ignitor and the tempreture would fall much lower then 320 If you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future Thanks again Rick
Best way is to take them out onto the drive way and spray them with oven cleaner and hose them off with a garden hose. If you need to scrub them use a scrubbing pad w/ good gloves and EYE protection. ope this helps Fixya up.
Well my first assumption is that you have a mouse that climbed up and chewed through the wiring. Mice can't resist the heat ,so I would shut off the circuit breaker for the oven (double breaker-220v) then check the back out to see if you seee any thing ,It could of course be the outlet,or the heat from the oven burning through some of the insulation on the wiring after all those years it could have just failed as well. Check out the voltage to each item if feel comfortable doing so.
Make sure that all the soup was cleaned out of the little holes in the burner that the gas comes out of. You can use a toothpick or some other small object like that to try to clean them out
A self cleaning oven that won't open after the self cleaning cycle is usually the oven has not had time to cool down from the high temperatures of cleaning. You should wait at least an hour to open it.
You can also try to unplug the unit or turn of the breaker to the over for at least five minutes. You will then have to reset the clock and then try to move the door lock. If that does not work, you can set the self clean cycle again for but only allow it to work for 15 minutes, then cancel the cycle and let the oven cool and then again try to move the door lock or open the door
If that does not work, then the lock will have to be accessed and moved manually to open the door
Some ovens need the door to be manually unlatched before the controls are set to the off position before they can be unlocked.
Hi!!
Check your installation, make sure the insulator support screws are in place and the insulator/dialectric is placed correctly. The problem could be a short between the chassis and the PCB. Or on the element socket itself. Check related wiring.
Click on the following link for exploded parts diagrams for easy ID. http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%208185890.pdf
Good Luck!! Keep me posted
It sounds as if the electronic clock/timer has failed and needs replacing. If you don't use the timer and don't need the clock it can be bypassed so that the oven will still work. A repair person should be able to do this fairly easily.
F2 E1 means that the keypad cable is unplugged.
Gain access to the control panel and keypad. Check keypad connector for firm connections. Keypad connects to the control board. Press CANCEL. If error code returns after 60 seconds, the keypad needs to be replaced. If your control board and keypad are incorporated as one unit, then the control board needs to be replaced.
