20 Most Recent KitchenAid Architect II Superba EQ Series KUDE20FB - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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Need Specs and sizes for a 1989 KitchenAid Superba 27 - KBS277

Are you sure of the model number? I see several KitchenAid ovens with the model number KEBS277: http://www.kitchenaid.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OCManualsLiteratureSearchResultView?catalogId=10552&langId=-1&storeId=10202 . The single oven version is 28³??" (73.0 cm) H x 26³??" (67.9 cm) W x 23" (58.4 cm) D. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells
9/3/2016 10:01:23 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Sep 03, 2016
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How do I get past the es and f2 message

F2 is generally an error indicating a bad sensor probe- it should read about 1100 ohms at 72 degrees F Help Me Find My Model Number RepairClinic com
8/30/2016 7:34:48 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Aug 30, 2016
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My kitchenaid temperature probe won't turn off

If you mean the probe icon will not leave the display, you need to be sure the probe jack is not coated with food residue that is grounding it, if it is clean- send the control in for rebuild. Help Me Find My Model Number RepairClinic com
8/30/2016 7:07:09 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Aug 30, 2016
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How do I turn off demo mode for KitchenAid Model KEBS179BSS00

The following is from your Users Manual: Demo Mode IMPORTANT: This feature is intended for use on the sales floor with 120 V power connection and permits the control features to be demonstrated without heating elements or burners turning on. If this feature is activated, the oven will not work. 1. Press OPTIONS until "DEMO MODE" is displayed. 2. The current setting will be displayed. 3. Press the "1" keypad to adjust the setting. 4. Press START to save the setting. 5. Press OFF to exit and display the time of day http://www.kitchenaid.com/digitalassets/KERS306BSS/Use%20and%20Care_EN.pdf
3/29/2016 5:49:02 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Mar 29, 2016
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Oven won't heat

You may have a blown thermal fuse in series with the heating elements. If the oven exceeded the maximum allowable temperature during self-clean, the fuse will open. See this discussion: Oven Failure After Self Clean and F1 Errors
9/8/2015 6:36:54 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Sep 08, 2015
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Kemc377. Why is it showing error code?

F1 DOOR SWITCH F2 KEYPAD F3 TEMPERATURE SENSOR F4 MEAT PROBE SHORTED F8 SELF CLEAN LATCH PROBLEM All other errors, replace the main oven control
8/25/2015 11:03:55 AM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Aug 25, 2015
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Replace inner glass oven door on kitchenaid model

thats hinges replacement job in my video.
6/27/2015 9:56:40 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Jun 27, 2015
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How can I find a replacement touchpad part that appears to be out of production?

Hello Joe; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician. I have checked all of my sources for your touch pad. There is a company that remanufacturers control boards. I do not know about touch pads. See below. Be careful about touching your control board. Ground yourself by touching something that is bare metal. Static electricity will knock out a control board. All Brands Appliance Parts Repair Service CoreCentric Solutions
5/21/2015 6:32:48 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on May 21, 2015
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My kitchenaid works fine however I have hit something and when I press the bake button it shows 180 degrees instead of 350 all of a sudden. How do I reset it? I tried shutting off the breaker but th

you neglected to mention the model this is , but most of the ovens made by them , when switched to bake , 1st show the temp you adjust then after thrirty seconds or so show the actual temp of oven (this number will change) the set temp function can be adjusted to anything in the ovens heat range 100-450) using the arrow keys anytime in the bake cycle , just touching a arrow key will change display to set temp screen , from actual temp display
4/25/2015 2:06:35 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Apr 25, 2015
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Oven won't turn on

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: 1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary. 2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection. 3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires. 4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 5.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
4/18/2015 7:21:14 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Apr 18, 2015
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Hi, curently I am having

Well my first assumption is that you have a mouse that climbed up and chewed through the wiring. Mice can't resist the heat ,so I would shut off the circuit breaker for the oven (double breaker-220v)
then check the back out to see if you seee any thing ,It could of course be the outlet,or the heat from the oven burning through some of the insulation on the wiring after all those years it could have just failed as well. Check out the voltage to each item if feel comfortable doing so.
3/5/2015 3:15:41 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Mar 05, 2015
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Kitchenaid superba built in oven thermometer probe symbol appeared after cleaning

The last digit is a 0 not an O go to Whirlpool,com scan over service and support click manuals and literature enter your model Number for owners manual as a tech have never seen the symptom you describe do me a favor hold the 0 button for 5-7 seconds to get into diagnostics we are looking for any F error codes hopes this helps
2/20/2015 7:05:02 AM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Feb 20, 2015
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F2E5 showed on the display and the oven turned off

The F2 E5 error indicates that there is a fault between the key pad and the control unit. (The wiring is giving an "open" fault.) Press Cancel and wait 60 seconds. If the error recurs, you need to get behind the keypad and check that the wiring is securely connected to the keypad and the central control unit. Inspect the wires for any breaks. Check each conductor for continuity on each side of the wiring harness, if possible. Reconnect the wiring and press Cancel again. If the error recurs after 60 seconds, you'll need to replace the keypad or the keypad and control unit. (KitchenAid provides the keypad and control unit as a single assembly for some models.) If your oven is still under warranty, contact KitchenAid for service. I hope this helps. Please add a comment with the model number of your oven for details on the appropriate replacement parts. Cindy Wells
2/17/2015 10:45:13 PM • KitchenAid Ovens • Answered on Feb 17, 2015
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