check your oven tempreture sensor do an ohms test on it should be reading between 1000-1100 ohms also you can do an ampere reading on the ignitor itself should be drawing between 3-3.3 amps any less would constitute a weak ignitor and would also cause a similar issue but your unit is heating well past the amount that you are presetting I would check the oven tempreture sensor first and if it gives a low reading of below 1000 replace the sensor itself your unit is getting to hot at first which would lead me to the sensor first whereas with an ignitor being weak it would take longer to relight the ignitor and the tempreture would fall much lower then 320 If you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future Thanks again Rick
Best way is to take them out onto the drive way and spray them with oven cleaner and hose them off with a garden hose. If you need to scrub them use a scrubbing pad w/ good gloves and EYE protection. ope this helps Fixya up.
Make sure that all the soup was cleaned out of the little holes in the burner that the gas comes out of. You can use a toothpick or some other small object like that to try to clean them out
A self cleaning oven that won't open after the self cleaning cycle is usually the oven has not had time to cool down from the high temperatures of cleaning. You should wait at least an hour to open it.
You can also try to unplug the unit or turn of the breaker to the over for at least five minutes. You will then have to reset the clock and then try to move the door lock. If that does not work, you can set the self clean cycle again for but only allow it to work for 15 minutes, then cancel the cycle and let the oven cool and then again try to move the door lock or open the door
If that does not work, then the lock will have to be accessed and moved manually to open the door
Some ovens need the door to be manually unlatched before the controls are set to the off position before they can be unlocked.
Hi!!
Check your installation, make sure the insulator support screws are in place and the insulator/dialectric is placed correctly. The problem could be a short between the chassis and the PCB. Or on the element socket itself. Check related wiring.
Click on the following link for exploded parts diagrams for easy ID. http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%208185890.pdf
Good Luck!! Keep me posted
It sounds as if the electronic clock/timer has failed and needs replacing. If you don't use the timer and don't need the clock it can be bypassed so that the oven will still work. A repair person should be able to do this fairly easily.
Hi, if a selfclean oven door lock fails to open after the self clean cycle and sufficient cooling time has elapsed (approximately 1 hour), there are several things you can try.
Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
If these procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and moved manually to open the door.
Some model ovens require the oven door to be manually unlatched before the controls are returned to the OFF position or else the door may not be able to be unlocked. Check the owner's manual for proper operating procedures.
The try to change the thermal fuse and lets see if it will restore the digital control. If it doesn't, then you have to replace the display kit..
there is an element in your oven that needs to heat up before it will light. it needs to be replaced. collect the serial number and model and if you go to sears they should be able to help you with the problem
