20 Most Recent Maytag MGC7430WS Stainless Steel Gas Cooktop Questions & Answers

I just put one of these in. You're right, there is nothing in the instructions about this, I had to figure it out for myself.Your kit includes two brackety-shaped steel brackets and two long screws. Look on the bottom of your cooktop, halfway between the front and back on the left and right edges and you'll see a hole on each side. They are the only holes on the bottom.Manipulate the brackets until you see that the hole in the bracket matches the hole in the bottom AND the bracket fits upward along the side of the cooktop. The flange on the top end of the bracket goes against the bottom of the countertop.It's useful to have another person lift each end of the cooktop while you insert the bracket from below. Once the brackets are in lace, center the cooktop so it's straight on the countertop, then screw the brackets to the bottom of the cooktop. They will tighten against the countertop and make the cooktop stop wiggling.

Hi- most likely the spark module is bad. Sometimes a burner swith gets stuck as well. Unplug the unit, the plug should be inside the cabinet. Take off the knobs and see if you see any obstructions and see if the knob posts move freely in and out (push to turn). Probably need to get a Tech out to look at it. If it is clicking even when the burners are off you can just leave it unplugged and light with a match to use it. If it is only clicking when you have the burners on check to be sure all the burner bases and caps are assembled correctly and seated, sometimes the electrode will continue to click if the burners are assembled wrong or are wet. Hope this helps a little. Good Luck.

Your spark module is bad and needs to be changed if you plan on using the electronic start instead of lighting it manually. The part cost about $11. (just looked it up), and its something you can change yourself

othing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: 1. Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown? Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary. 2. Power cord plugged in? Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection. 3. Power cord damage? Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires. 4. A clicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 5. 6. Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse ++++ Oven Control Board The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven. Relay board: Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

Use this link for answers to all your cooktop issues.

Go to your electrical panel and check the circuit breakers. If one is tripped it will be in a halfway position. switch off then on. If it keeps tripping you may have to call a repair man.

First it could be leaking from the control knob when it is on . There could be a leak at the base off the burner letting out gas or on the burner line . You need to get back on to your installer or where you purchased the cook top . This basic gas fitting leak detection .

Sure. The wiring harness can be repaired or replaced as well as any damaged components.

Tammy have you checked the circuit breaker at the electrical panel of your home. Do the panel lights come on? If they do and the rest is off then it will need service.

call or e-mail the company or the manufactor they can help.

You will need to replace the display assembly, the oven control board is part of it and it is burned out.

is it gas?
if it is gas i would strongly suspect the spark module

Hi,
You have a bad ignitor to your oven. Part number you should replace is 12400035. This should fix this problem. Just because it glows does not mean it work correctly, it works off of the flow of electricity rather then the glow of the ignitor.
Ignitor How to test How to change ignitor
Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today. Did you clean the cook top or spill something? If the switches get wet they will click untill it drys out. If not then one of the switches failed and would need to be replaced. Its the switch that sits on the burner valve.
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